D45

Since I did a grid heater delete...I want to make sure my stock block heater is up to par, for winter (I know, I should enjoy summer while it is here)

Is there any way to test the ohm or resistance readings on the element.....or when in doubt, should it just be replaced?

I thought over this past winter that it was not working like it used to.....but how often does the block heater element actually go bad???

Does the element sit into coolant or just an open space inside the block?

I bought a new, Cummins original block heater cord for only $10 (Mopar P/N 1-05086737AB and Cummins 3963564)......and was thinking about replacing the block heater when I remove the exhaust manifold and turbo this weekend

The cord is rated:
-120 Volt
-10 AMP
-1200 Watt

So...........what should I do?????

Shorts

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
If the unit does not operate, possible causes can be
either the power cord or the heater element. Test the
power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or
110-volt test light. Test heater element continuity with
an ohmmeter or a 12-volt test light.




In a quick search I found that anything over 50 ohms it should be replaced. Another said amps are more accurate but not certain of the range.

klx650a2

i believe there should be 20 to 30 ohms resistance.

Lil Dog

The only time any of mine failed was a complete failure of the element and it was an open circuit. This was on my 89 CTD years ago. The only way that I have seen them become less effective is with scale buildup on them, but that would be from total neglect of the cooling system as well.

The heater is 750W and is in the block water jacket between cylinders 2-3 I believe. I have only ever replaced 1 on my trucks over the last 15 years.

torquefan

Working on these trucks for years, I have found the block heaters to be very reliable with very few failures. I have seen several cord failures. The wires usually break right close to the plug, usually from unplugging it in supercold temperatures. Test it with an ohmmeter, they are usually consistent at 19 ohms, and should be open circuit to ground.

D45

Thanks guys.....

I have a voltmeter....but please walk me through where or how to test the cord using the voltmeter

firestorm

I drilled a hole in the side of the bumper, on the driver's side. I then got, wired, and mounted, a 110v shore plug, from the local boating store. Now I can easily be reminded, if the block heater is plugged in, and there is no stress on the plug. I will try to post a picture of it, when I get off work this evening.

Shorts

+1

I did this little project as well. Sorta sets it and forgets it, so you don't have to be swapping the cord in and out.

Nascarcamper

Testing cord:
Place meter on OHMS.
The engine end of cord has a plug, put one lead on the wall side and find the corresponding connection on the engine side, check resistance, I would think it should be near zero or direct short, Do this on all three pins, Make sure no other connections have any resistance to a different pin. Basically make sure each has its own path and does not share.

D45

I just replaced the entire cord assembly.......see how it does

I am going to buy a Buckstop bumper and buy/install one of those bumper mounting adapters for the block cord

Shorts

Cool. Let us know how it goes.

Here's my writeup: Ok to permanently attach block heater cord?

firestorm

This is the left side of the bumper.

Lil Dog

Thats cool! Great idea.

firestorm

Thanks, I got tired of unplugging the extension cord from the wall socket, using the truck. I knew there had to be a better way. Since I approach the truck from the left side, I figured that would be the place to put it. There is a 2.5' cord wired to the back side of the shore plug, that the heater wire is plugged into. Everything it zip-tied, so nothing hangs down.

1-2-3

"unplugging the extension cord from the wall socket, using the truck."


AH yes. So you've been chased out the driveway by an orange snake before too