Has anyone changed thier 3/4 ton brakes to 1 ton brakes? I love the stopping power of my Dad's 3500 compared to my 2500 and would like to convert without paying to much.

 

I thought everything was the same on a 2500 and 3500 except the helper springs

 

Thought the same thing.

 

I think the rear calipers are bigger on duallys.

 

I'm thinking they'er the same size too.

 

Thought maybe EARLY 3rd generations there was a differance because the EARLY ones with auto had the smaller rear axel and then it all went to the SAME size as well as the brakes.

 

Have you considered installing the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads? They are an awesome combination for complete stopping power. You can upgrade and get the rotors Cryo - frozen too if you need.

 

I'm not a mechanic by no means but what does freezing the rotors do.

 

Cryo treating rotors simply aligns all the molecules is a more arranged pattern that allows the metal to be stronger, take heat better and is simply better.( can't really put it into technicall terms but if you search the net I'm sure you will find lots of info). I do this on my race cars rotor and the last roughly 4 times as long as not treating them.

Hawk pads are good. I don't believe they make them for our trucks yet though? I caould be wrong but the last time I checked there wasn't.

 

Just so you know, if you change the rear disc's on a 3rd gen dually(at least my 04.5) you have to pull the axle's.

 

The Rams equipped with the 10.5" rear axles has the smaller brakes.
The 2500/3500 with the 11.5" axles have the larger brakes.

MikeyB

 

Pulling the axles should take about 45 seconds apiece if they're the same basic design as the dana 80. Remove the bolts that hold the axle in with an impact gun and just pull the axle right on out. Installation the same as removal. The (slightly) harder part on the dana 80 is pulling the bearing hub. You either use a chisel to drive the funky nut counterclockwise, or the special socket designed for the purpose. I really don't know anything much about that part of the AAM axles, but I wouldn't think it would be terribly difficult. Generally speaking, removing the axleshafts from a full floating rearend is terribly easy.

 

I can handle a brake job but I really don't want to pull the axle. If anyone has pics I can probably do it..

 

At least with the early 3rd gens - the 2500 and 3500srw rear brakes were the same but the 3500 drw had bigger calipers. I've haad my axles out and don't remember exactly what locks the nuts together but they don't have the cheesy drive-in clip to lock a single nylock nut like the dana. The aam is more conventional with a washer ear or tab to bend over. I cut off milk jug bottoms to catch the oil that runs out. Craig

 

So let me ask a real simple question. Are there any upgrades availble for our trucks, or our we relegated to the oem stuff?