Track Bar Replacement
12-19-2008, 01:28 PM
#16
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I payed $240 for my track bar from Pure Proformence/Rock Krawler and it's a really nice unit. I really like how NOTHING is welded, it's one solid piece and it comes nicely painted ready to install. I must be mistaken but I was sure you aren't legally allowed to weld anything for steering?
12-19-2008, 05:06 PM
#18
Who said anything about the bar itself being weak? Do as you wish Dr. Smasher, but don't infer that I'm stupid. You think the new Thuren bar is going to take your 10" x 10" wooden post guard rail any better?
The weakest point on the stock track bar is the rubber bushings and not the solid bar itself. This is partly the reason for the Hiem joints on after market track bars or the nylon bushings that Lazersmith is making (which I don't think I'd use by the way). I think most people replace the bar so you can adjust it for your lift, and get rid of the rubber bushings, not for a stronger piece of steel.
If you're at all interested I'd be happy to help you anyway I can. Best way to do what I suggested is to cut it in half at the straight, turn a sleeve, space it the bar to correct the length, and weld the hell out of the sleeve on both ends. As far as welding steering pcs there's a ton of welded pcs on a front end. Some on here have talked about pinning the sleeve and welding it. That's fair enough if your concerned about your work, but truth is, if you can weld worth a **** the weld should be stronger then the parent steel. There's nothing unsafe about it and there are a zillion cars on the road today with welded / fabricated steering parts on them. In fact...have you seen the axle brackets this bar is attached to? It's a tin gusset...
On a side note Mocho, if you can get an adjustable track bar for $240, then I think you one upped me.
When I was looking they were a fair bit more and my truck only had 10k on it so the bushings were in decent shape still. That's why I cut mine instead. I fully realize I'll have to replace it as some point. My cost is zero though thus far though.
12-23-2008, 03:39 PM
#19
Who said anything about the bar itself being weak? Do as you wish Dr. Smasher, but don't infer that I'm stupid. You think the new Thuren bar is going to take your 10" x 10" wooden post guard rail any better?
The weakest point on the stock track bar is the rubber bushings and not the solid bar itself. This is partly the reason for the Hiem joints on after market track bars or the nylon bushings that Lazersmith is making (which I don't think I'd use by the way). I think most people replace the bar so you can adjust it for your lift, and get rid of the rubber bushings, not for a stronger piece of steel.
If you're at all interested I'd be happy to help you anyway I can. Best way to do what I suggested is to cut it in half at the straight, turn a sleeve, space it the bar to correct the length, and weld the hell out of the sleeve on both ends. As far as welding steering pcs there's a ton of welded pcs on a front end. Some on here have talked about pinning the sleeve and welding it. That's fair enough if your concerned about your work, but truth is, if you can weld worth a **** the weld should be stronger then the parent steel. There's nothing unsafe about it and there are a zillion cars on the road today with welded / fabricated steering parts on them. In fact...have you seen the axle brackets this bar is attached to? It's a tin gusset...
On a side note Mocho, if you can get an adjustable track bar for $240, then I think you one upped me. When I was looking they were a fair bit more and my truck only had 10k on it so the bushings were in decent shape still. That's why I cut mine instead. I fully realize I'll have to replace it as some point. My cost is zero though thus far though.
The weakest point on the stock track bar is the rubber bushings and not the solid bar itself. This is partly the reason for the Hiem joints on after market track bars or the nylon bushings that Lazersmith is making (which I don't think I'd use by the way). I think most people replace the bar so you can adjust it for your lift, and get rid of the rubber bushings, not for a stronger piece of steel.
If you're at all interested I'd be happy to help you anyway I can. Best way to do what I suggested is to cut it in half at the straight, turn a sleeve, space it the bar to correct the length, and weld the hell out of the sleeve on both ends. As far as welding steering pcs there's a ton of welded pcs on a front end. Some on here have talked about pinning the sleeve and welding it. That's fair enough if your concerned about your work, but truth is, if you can weld worth a **** the weld should be stronger then the parent steel. There's nothing unsafe about it and there are a zillion cars on the road today with welded / fabricated steering parts on them. In fact...have you seen the axle brackets this bar is attached to? It's a tin gusset...
On a side note Mocho, if you can get an adjustable track bar for $240, then I think you one upped me.
When I was looking they were a fair bit more and my truck only had 10k on it so the bushings were in decent shape still. That's why I cut mine instead. I fully realize I'll have to replace it as some point. My cost is zero though thus far though.I did not mean to infer that you were stupid. But what is the point of only replacing part of the bar? None in strength. You get no improvement since you are still leaving the ends of the original bar.
Now if I knew that the part of the bar that is bad would be replaced by doing this, I would. But I do not know where it is bent. A stronger bar would have possibly held up to the 10 x 10 post but something else would probably have broken. If I am going to replace the bar for 300 from dealer I will just rather spend the extra for the upgrade. I would rather replace with new than a used one.
As far as welding steering I agree with you that it is fine. There are plenty of steering setups that have welded on ends. And the welds are much stronger than any of the materials used in the steering components from factory.
12-23-2008, 03:49 PM
#20
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Who said anything about the bar itself being weak? Do as you wish Dr. Smasher, but don't infer that I'm stupid. You think the new Thuren bar is going to take your 10" x 10" wooden post guard rail any better?
The weakest point on the stock track bar is the rubber bushings and not the solid bar itself. This is partly the reason for the Hiem joints on after market track bars or the nylon bushings that Lazersmith is making (which I don't think I'd use by the way). I think most people replace the bar so you can adjust it for your lift, and get rid of the rubber bushings, not for a stronger piece of steel.
If you're at all interested I'd be happy to help you anyway I can. Best way to do what I suggested is to cut it in half at the straight, turn a sleeve, space it the bar to correct the length, and weld the hell out of the sleeve on both ends. As far as welding steering pcs there's a ton of welded pcs on a front end. Some on here have talked about pinning the sleeve and welding it. That's fair enough if your concerned about your work, but truth is, if you can weld worth a **** the weld should be stronger then the parent steel. There's nothing unsafe about it and there are a zillion cars on the road today with welded / fabricated steering parts on them. In fact...have you seen the axle brackets this bar is attached to? It's a tin gusset...
On a side note Mocho, if you can get an adjustable track bar for $240, then I think you one upped me. When I was looking they were a fair bit more and my truck only had 10k on it so the bushings were in decent shape still. That's why I cut mine instead. I fully realize I'll have to replace it as some point. My cost is zero though thus far though.
The weakest point on the stock track bar is the rubber bushings and not the solid bar itself. This is partly the reason for the Hiem joints on after market track bars or the nylon bushings that Lazersmith is making (which I don't think I'd use by the way). I think most people replace the bar so you can adjust it for your lift, and get rid of the rubber bushings, not for a stronger piece of steel.
If you're at all interested I'd be happy to help you anyway I can. Best way to do what I suggested is to cut it in half at the straight, turn a sleeve, space it the bar to correct the length, and weld the hell out of the sleeve on both ends. As far as welding steering pcs there's a ton of welded pcs on a front end. Some on here have talked about pinning the sleeve and welding it. That's fair enough if your concerned about your work, but truth is, if you can weld worth a **** the weld should be stronger then the parent steel. There's nothing unsafe about it and there are a zillion cars on the road today with welded / fabricated steering parts on them. In fact...have you seen the axle brackets this bar is attached to? It's a tin gusset...
On a side note Mocho, if you can get an adjustable track bar for $240, then I think you one upped me.
When I was looking they were a fair bit more and my truck only had 10k on it so the bushings were in decent shape still. That's why I cut mine instead. I fully realize I'll have to replace it as some point. My cost is zero though thus far though.
12-23-2008, 04:54 PM
#21
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Pretty sure both sides are beveled,as to why the weld is pretty much flush with tubing.
12-23-2008, 08:50 PM
#23
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The problem with welding steering is if it's allowed any job blow will do it and you have no idea if they are doing it right. Also when you heat the steel you can easily weaken it if it's not done right.
12-23-2008, 10:05 PM
#24
No doubt, I have seen some absolute booger weld jobs and anyone who gets a welder might think he can weld like a trained pro which is not the case. I personally weld better with my onboard stick welder than with any mig gun. Mobi-Arc is the *****.
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