LJRoy

2003 4x4 w/ 128K miles. The passenger side front axle joint is starting to pop in turns (I already did the drivers side last year)

I have a couple trips planned for the summer and fall where it would be really bad to have a breakdown so I think it makes sense to just pull everything apart and do the whole front end -- wheel bearings/hubs, u-joints, ball joints, rotors, and pads all together. I already have most of the parts on the shelf as spares anyway.

I found a posting that says the axle nut is a 1 11/16" - I guess it's really a 42mm?

Does anyone have a ball point tool they recommend? The OTC catalog doesn't seem to list a direct application for the 3rd gen pickups.

Is there anything else required that probably isn't found in the average amateur mechanics toolbox?

thanks for any advice!

elirandolph

Just did this not long ago and if you don't have a ball joint press you need to get one or rent one that has several different length sleeves. I don't think there is anything else that would be considered special except for the 1 11/16 socket.

Pooter

I know I bookmarked this link for a reason!

http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/3rd_gen_u-joint/

LJRoy

I think five winters worth of mid-atlantic road salt has made my truck close to a worst case example.

The axle nut was not an problem. I used a 3/4" 43mm socket and 40" breaker bar - a 1/2 bar wouldn't have touched it. 18mm for the two brake caliper bolts and four hub bolts.

Getting the rotor off took an hour or two of effort spread across a couple days - intermittent hammering, heat, and rust penetrant.

Using the power steering to drive out the hub didn't seem to budge it. A three lb hammer beating the heck out of the bolts on the backside has gotten it to start moving a hair. Actually I'm using one bolt that I'm moving around the four corners so I only need to replace the one fastener. I may buy a pneumatic hammer before I do the other side.

This would actually be a quick and easy job if Dodge had used anti-seize between the rotor and hub, and hub and steering knuckle. I can't imagine what this would cost if you had to pay shop labor rates and parts markup - it would have to be a doozy of a bill.

Raspy

LJRoy,

I just finished doing it all a month ago on my '04.

You mentioned wheel bearings. Are you going to replace the unit bearings since they are not serviceable? If you can swing it, I recommend getting a Dynatrac setup, maybe that's what you meant in your first post. Then you'll have a serviceable front end, plus hubs. I think Napa sells replacement track bar bushings too. Nice.

I used a Napa ball joint press but a lot of guys mention the Harbor Freight one and I'm sure it's a lot cheaper.

And, of course, a vise that opens to about 8 inches for the U joints.

Don't forget to adjust the steering box for that added final touch.

John

bullrider9800

I just did mine in Sept. I will never forget it....
I ended up cutting the ball joints off with a torch, then pounding out the hub/bearing assembly. It worked great and after doing this the second side was EASY!!! I also used a ball joint press from Harbor Freight. Could be a little bigger but it did work great. Put it together with lots of Anti Seize.
Then I wrecked the truck in Feb. and the dealer put a brand new axle with new ball joints and new drivers hub and made all that work I did a waste of time and $$$.

LJRoy

Raspy: I'm replacing the unit bearings with new ones, same design. I actually like the hub-less design. It's about as simple a layout as could be built and I don't think the service life is terrible. My opinion is clouded by those memories of Ford automatic hubs that never worked the way they should!

I'm only replacing the bearings as the u-joint needs doing - and I figure if you're gonna open it all up for that you might as well just do it all get it ready for the next 100+K. It's also nice to do it on your own terms instead of having it go half a continent from home.

ddestruel

actually if you like the hub less design. keep the locking hubs locked all the time it will yeild oyu the same results minus the tow bill hotel stay and random roadside shop bill that will add up when you loose one in some remote place in nevada without warning. my second set had just a hair over 40k miles on them truck had 80k on the ticker and left me in the middle of nevada with a trailer hooked to the back of the truck. i checked all my drivetrain parts including the wheel bearings before i left on a 1500 mile round trip. lets just say saturday night in battle mountain nevada costs you a fair penny by monday night without any casinos involved. $1500 i decided next time i was buying a hub kit... EMS $1330 shipped to my door. piece of mind being able to check thoe bearings before a long trip since they like to fail without warning