Has anyone sound deadened their cabs top to bottom? Just ordered 100 sq/ft of material and any tips on removing the interior would be a huge bonus. I would hate to damage any panels.

Do the panels pop off easily? I'll bet I'm going to need a few of those plastic tree snap thing-o-ma-bobs. Does anyone have pics of their install or even of the interior removed?

I can see this job could be a few flats of beer worth. Well, better get started on those beer!!

 

I've reused my plastic tree thingy's more times than I care to count. Panels are still holding. A couple of cases of Coors is all it's gonna take (don't ask me how I know this ).

 

DSLRammin you are in luck. I have done it and have pics of some of the interior removed. You are going to need a LOT more than 100sq feet I hate to tell you. I hope you got the good stuff dynamat xtreme, and not that brown bread or fatmat imitation stuff. If you need a line on it , pm me. I found a guy on ebay that sells the dynamat pretty cheap, I've ordered from him a few times. I think its $80 for 36sq feet, but I could be wrong. Some of the dynamat pics are on my tdr readers rigs. I didn't do the front or headliner yet, just the floor in the back and the back wall, and all four doors. I got 3 sheets in each door! Be sure you take the time to roll it on well. THe interior is easy to remove and I didn't break anything. The 3rd gens don't have the same flimsy clips as the older models do.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...p?userid=17021

PS. Yes the panels all come off very easily. You will need some large torx sockets for some of the stuff, like the seat belts and rear seats etc. Just be careful when you pop off the door panels (very easy) that you don't pull far or hard on them, because you have to disconnect the power window plug and stereo speaker plugs or you'll yank them out/break them. Be sure to pay attn which speaker wire went where, because you can easily reverse them.

Hope all this helps!

 

I Did when I put my sterio in, want a pic?? I put a 1/2" sticky one side piece of foam sheeting in mine and everywhere I could reach..How do I post a pic in this message??

 

Lightman,

Has it made a real difference in sound levels? The roads in ttexas have those grooves running perpendicular to the road, and it creates an awful high pitched whine. I'm looking for a way to supress it.

 

Thanks Lightman, I think we all would like to know if it made a major diff.

I love the sound of the truck running around town but on a long trip it really gets annoying when the old lady starts whinin and bitchin about the noise. Thats were the infinity sound comes in handy.

Also, have you noticed any rattles or chatter from the interior since pulling everything apart? The truck is super tight and would hate to trade road noise for rattles after the install.

Thanks

 

Got Dynamat in the doors, what a difference, now all I hear is noise from front and rear, going to do the rear shortly, I need to hear some rattlin from the front, music to my ears.........

 

Well the word 'big' is certainly relative. Did it make a noticeable difference? Very. Is the truck like a sound barrier? No.The biggest improvement was doing the back wall - make sure you double or triple layer it. If you can double layer everywhere, you will really notice a difference. Competition stereo guys sometimes do 5-6 layers! I didn't get that nuts. Just remember the muffler is back there, and all that sound comes up through the rear floor or back wall. As it is stock, the back wall is completely bare metal.

Everything went together without a rattle, if anything less. I really still need to do the front floor under the front seats, and the headliner. The job is just so time consuming I haven't motivated yet. Just to let you know, I spent about 18 hours doing the rear floor, back wall, and 4 doors.

The most major sound reduction is ambient noise - like wind and road and tire noise. The doors just soak that up. If you bang your hand on a ram door that's stock and then mine the sound difference is amazing - the stock door vibrates and makes noise, mine makes a dead thud/thunk. If you have a lot of free time, I suggest this project, it's very easy - just takes a lot of time and your thumb will be sore from pushing down on the roller tool! :-) PS get a wooden roller tool, those plastic ones that come with the dynamat kits break easily, although you may need it to get into tighter areas. Home depot or lowes sells a variety of rollers.

 

Just an FYI, there are not any "Christmas Tree" style fasteners on the third gen trucks (03+). The door panels clip on and this is much more reliable. Like Lightman said, you will mainly need some torx and sockets to remove everything.

 

Lightman,

How much (or how big of a square - 4"x4"?) dynomat did you put in the doors?

 

Monkeylips - I think each sheet is 4 square feet - 9 to a bulk pack. I was able to get THREE full sheets in each door Not only did I cover all of the inner door skin (where the speaker is mounted, but I reached inside to the outer door skin (just inside the outside of the door if that makes sense). There is a huge flat area there, and with some patience you can stick huge pieces in there and get a small roller tool in. You can check my TDR gallery for quite a few dynamat pics.

 

Thanks, I was wondering how much you were able to get in there???

 

couple questions, how does the backseat come out, and how many ft^2 would it take to do all 4 doors, back wall, floor, and roof? i'm going to do the doors first, one step at a time.

 

I bought 200 ft and it did 4 doors (2 layers each) Floor and back wall (3 layers)
I haven't tackled the roof yet. Back seats come out easily with torx wrench.

 

Wonder how this stuff would work, would be much easier

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edeadv3_overview.htm

I would like to do something with mine but Dynamat sounds really expensive to me. You could put 3 layers of cheap stuff for what Dynamat cost.