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Removing exhaust manifold

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Old 02-26-2010 | 03:40 PM
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I have more pics if you want them. With a stock turbo, you should be able to just drop the turbo vice taking it out and installing it on the manifold. Just support the turbo.

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I took the tire out and the wheel well off to make it a little easier.

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(I had a concrete pad underneath the jack stand, don't think I'm a retard...
Old 02-26-2010 | 03:43 PM
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It looks a lot cleaner without that exhaust manifold in there. Probably saves a lot of weight too. Did you notice if it is any louder without it?
Old 02-26-2010 | 03:44 PM
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lol yea you rahtard...

I was going to say I don't need to yank the whole turbo. And thats where most of the lbs are at right? Those little suckers are stupid heavy! What would you use to suppor it? Just the jack from under neath or what?
Old 02-26-2010 | 03:49 PM
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Do you just leave the turbo bolted to the exhaust pipe and support the whole thing?
Old 02-26-2010 | 04:33 PM
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I removed the turbo completely, so I did not have a need to support anything, however, you could put a bolt back in the manifold holes in the block and tie it up with a piece of 550 cord or something. You could probably use a jack underneath, you don't want to let the weight rest on the downpipe and exhaust for too long unsupported. Watch out for your tranny dip stick tube, too.
Old 02-26-2010 | 07:23 PM
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When I did my exh mani I broke it at the turbo, put a jack stand under the turbo/exhaust.

No penetrant needed, the mani bolts came loose without any difficulty. I did not bother with removing the wheel well liner, did not support the truck with stands, left the tires on. Worked off a stepladder and my front bumper.

The turbo bolts were also easy to get to, break loose, and re-install/torque - did them from below - ratchet, couple extensions, swiveland socket. 5 min job to get them all apart - same amount of time to put them back in.

The mani was off in about 10 mins, new mani back on in another 10 mins. I used a new gasket, it came with the new mani. Total time for the entire job was right at an hour, to include getting out/putting away the tools.

Piece of cake job, truly easy to do, nothing to it.


CD
Old 02-26-2010 | 07:47 PM
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So when you yank just the mani, you don't have to worry about the oils to the turbo right? It just unbolts from the turbo and the block and comes out?
Old 02-26-2010 | 09:25 PM
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Yeah. The manifold has nothing to do with oil. Set the turbo down, replace the manifold.

I was just trying to show you the worst possible angle...
Old 02-26-2010 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Lost Lake
It looks a lot cleaner without that exhaust manifold in there. Probably saves a lot of weight too. Did you notice if it is any louder without it?

Didn't see this earlier...

I did not start it, however, I have a vid of one of the guys trucks that I helped out with only a turbo...



I had to get out of there... it was rough!
Old 02-27-2010 | 12:40 PM
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Just a couple pipes run straight up through the hood would be perfect.
Old 02-27-2010 | 05:20 PM
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Anyone got an idea of how hot the manifold gets? If I can't find a place to do the thermal coating for reasonable $$$ I plan on just painting it with header paint, but not sure what kind of temps this thing sees
Old 02-27-2010 | 05:25 PM
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Same temps your pyro sees...
Old 02-27-2010 | 05:26 PM
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I don't have a pyro...
Old 02-27-2010 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bansh-eman
Anyone got an idea of how hot the manifold gets? If I can't find a place to do the thermal coating for reasonable $$$ I plan on just painting it with header paint, but not sure what kind of temps this thing sees
I sure do, because that's where my EGT gauge is mounted!

Without my Smarty it would hit 1300. With the Smarty 1100. I'm thinking there's no paint out there that can handle those temps.
Old 02-27-2010 | 05:34 PM
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Well shoot. I wonder if the metal actually sees these temps. 1300 should turn the metal bright red.

What setting do you run your Smarty on that it dropped your temps 200*?


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