I was thinking about removing my exhaust mani to have it all blasted and coated. I see there is some rust on the bolts and nuts. How much of a pain is it to remove the manifold without stripping something out?

 

I would use a lot of penetrating oil on the bolts b4 starting removal

 

I did not have a problem taking mine off, it was about 3 years old when I did. Get some PB blaster, spray it a couple of times for a day or two.

 

I got a can sitting in my shed. I will just have to give it a try. Thanks.

 

What will you coat it with? Something ceramic?

 

Use a penetrating oil (not WD40) like Screwloose and if there is room use an impact wrench at slow speeds for removal and a torque wrench for re-installation...You'll thank me later......Ben

 

Yeah, I would recommend breaking them loose by hand... good point.

I can get torque specs if you need them.

 

If you got the specs Mad that would be awesome!

And I would do everything by hand becasue I don't have an impact or compressor.

Lost I would get them thermal coated. It is a ceramic coating with metal fragment in it... They normally are a bright silver color, but I want to see if I can find a place to do black. If not... I may just take it to get sand blasted and use some hi temp header paint on it to stop the rusting. That's realy my only reason for having it coated.

http://www.olycoatings.com/tbc101.html

The lady that owns this place did my ATV parts. She does awesome work. She did the thermal coating to a buddies banshee pipes. But she is in Ca and I am in Tx now

My one concern is the heat. This stuff holds the heat in. Not sure if it will hurt this motor or not.

 

(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger
elbow.
(4) Disconnect oil drain tube from turbocharger.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Disconnect the turbocharger air inlet hose.
(7) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(8) Disconnect the turbocharger oil supply line.
(9) Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe from
the turbocharger.
(10) Remove the turbocharger and gasket from the
exhaust manifold.
(11) Remove the cab heater return pipe nuts from
the exhaust manifold stud. Position the tube out of
the way.
(12) Remove heat shield.
(13) Remove exhaust manifold bolt lockplates.
(14) Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head
bolts and spacers (Fig. 120).
(15) Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets
(Fig. 120).
CLEANING
Clean the cylinder head and exhaust manifold sealing
surfaces with a suitable scraper. Use a Scotch-
Brite™ pad or equivalent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks. Measure
the exhaust manifold for flatness. Place a ruler over
all of the exhaust ports and insert a feeler gauge
between the port flange and the ruler. Maximum
deviation from flat is 0.20 mm (.008 inch).
INSTALLATION
(1) Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold
and gaskets. Install the bolts and spacers and
tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in to 43 N·m
(32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Retorque the four center bolts.
(3) Install heat shield and torque nuts to 15 Nm
(11 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install cab heater tube.
(5) Install exhaust manifold bolt retention straps.
(6) Install the cab heater return hose to the manifold
bolt stud. Tighten the nut to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(7) Install the turbocharger and a new gasket.
Apply anti-seize to the studs and then tighten the
turbocharger mounting nuts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Pre-lube the turbocharger. Pour 50 to 60 cc
(2 to 3 oz.) clean engine oil in the oil supply line fitting
on the turbo. Rotate the turbocharger impeller
by hand to distrubute the oil thoroughly.
(9) Install and tighten the oil supply line fitting
nut to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Position the charge air cooler inlet pipe to the
turbocharger. With the clamp in position, tighten the
clamp nut to 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
(11) Position the air inlet hose to the turbocharger.
Tighten the clamp to 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(13) Install the oil drain tube and a new gasket to
the turbocharger. Tighten the drain tube bolts to 24
N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
and tighten the bolts to 11 N·m (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Lower the vehicle.
(16) Connect the battery negative cables.
(17) Start the engine to check for leaks.

 

Thanks! Where are you guys buying your gaskets from?

 

Hth...

I just used my old ones. You'll have to get them from a Mopar site. I think that it says somewhere that you are not supposed to use RTV to hold the gaskets on... you almost have to use something to keep them on. Just make sure that nothing is going to enter the manifold, because you know where that exhaust goes after the manifold...

 

You didn't have any issues with them sealing again?

 

Not thus far. I mean, my truck does not put out that much power, so I don't have to worry about it.

 

I am running stock so I don't have anything special eiter... When you got yours off you didn't have any issues with it realigning going back on did you? I saw a place that claimed they had a stock manifold that had srank becasue the expanding and contracting so much that it was 1/4 off once they unbolted it.

 

I did not. It was an easy process (no hiccups, it was a PITA to do.) You better have another pair of strong hands, and a wife that's willing to help you put bolts in while you and your buddy hold it.

This is what it looks like...













Notice the strained/ticked off looks on my face...