Well, with the temps getting below the freezing mark, I've started plugging in the block and oil pan heater. I put them on a timer so they turn on about 2 hours before I leave in the morning. Now when I go and fire the rig up, it is nice and smooth, I can tell the oil is flowing right away. As an added bonus, I get heat pumping out the vents in about 3 min., whereas I used to have to wait for about 10!

I think these trucks should come with the pan heater standard. Easier start ups, oil flowing faster. Nuff said

 

My block heater works well enough here, but then again it never gets THAT cold in Texas, more or less a casual breeze, no blistering cold like up north...

Depending on outside temps(around 30-35*) The truck is at 115-120* when I start it up

 

Not quite that cold in AZ....I just like having a relatively warm truck. Yes, after ~3hr mine is at 110-120. Ambient temps at 0500 range from High 40's to mid 30's.

Tony

 

I have a Wolverine 125W stick on heater on my oil pan. I don't use synthetic oil so when its 0° outside I am a lot less worried when I crank her up.
It's got to be easier on the engine. It sure sound a lot better than without the oil heated. I agree should come with pan heaters as well.

 

I see the point, doesn't that "wreck" the properties of it though..........

IMO much better off plugin' it on to the block.

 

i installed a pro heat oil pan heater a couple of weeks back. the 250 watt model that does 1-3 gallons. it has been real cold here and it has been plugged in for 5 hours a night- i can't notice any difference!! i use synthetic oil too! oil pressure is the same with it on or not (have an aftermarket oil press gauge) i know it works because 1 minute after plugging it in it is so hot you can not even touch it!

 

I would be careful with oil pan heaters, I used to work for the CAT dealer and they had a spec for them it was not to exeed 12 watts per square inch. and many do exeed (the spec was for dyno oil) . Coking can result and this can get past filters during a cold start when the bypass for the oil filter is open as the thick cold oil can not be forced through the filter media for the first few minutes during warm up. These granuals of coke are very hard and can score bearings etc. Also most diesel engines ensure that the turbo gets the first oil that is pumped and they cost a lot of money. I am from Alberta Canada and I am ok with 0-40 full synthetic oil and a block heater . I use that oil all year round and I pulled trailer through the Dakotas, Kansas, Arkansa and Tennisee in temperatures of 102 F this summer and Oil anaylisis says everything is good.
Jim O

 

The Wolverine model I have is 1.5"x6" and is 125W which is 13.8W/sq.in.
It is recommended for a oil pan that has a capacity of 3-6 US quarts. This is very close to the CAT spec. you quoted. I have slid under the truck and put a bare hand on the pan after the heater was on for three to four hours. This was when the temp. outside was in the single digits (°F). If you put your hand directly on the heater it will burn your hand. But if you put your fingers on the metal pan, even right next to where the heater is, there is just enough heat to warm your fingers but definitely not burn them. Based on my cold weather test, I do not believe I will have a coking problem.
I would agree that you should not get to carried away on the wattage of a pan heater.

 

how about a source for the heaters?

 

http://www.wolverineheater.com/engin...er/index.shtml

 

Read my Sig.

 

i lived in alaska and i didn't have all that on my rig.

 

Yea.....But you probably lived in the southern tropical areas...

 

not sure how tropical it was cuz it was the rainy season all the time.
juneau.