Had my truck since June, went on a trip to Upstate NY, first time I really had to use the Highbeams on a daily basis since I bought the truck. Had my best friend with me, and he even said the highbeam output was crappy!! I showed him the lows, highs, than held the lever in manually so that it would shine the Lows, highs, and the driving lights. That gave me the best output, but once you let go of the lever, the driving lights go off when you have the highs on.

Ive seen on here where someone ran a jumper wire in the fuse box to keep the highs and driving lights on together, anybody have a schematic??

Ive also seen the "britebox" and the driving light mod to put in the different bulbs. Im not looking to spend a fortune, but would like to have a little better "high beam, long distance" light output.

To me, looks like my driving lights could be adjusted upwards a tad, and try to get them to stay on with the highs, and most likely, that would be much better lighting in the highbeam area for me. I plan on a couple of more trips upstate, and would like to feel a little more safer. I know its still hunting season, but I dont feel like getting my deer with a "7,800 lb bullet!!

Any suggestions in this area will be greatly appreciated

 

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400360

Jacobselectronics used to have a similiar kit and they stated 42% increase if I remember right

AJ

 

I added $10 worth of parts to keep my fog lights and low beams on when I click the high beams on. Here is the link describing how:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=74674

You can also replace your fog light bulbs with 9005 high beam bulbs for even more light. Here is a link that will help:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=70781

 

Another question... When people are using the relay's or boxes to keep both high and low's on, does anybody have any issues with too much heat in the housings, also same goes with putting the High beam bulbs in the driving light housings, does the higher wattage heat up and start to deform the lenses??

 

Handyman, thank you for posting this information, I completed this mod prior to Thanks Giving and it work great. I took a trip down to Vegas and then up through northern CA. Allot of it was at night and I had no problems with the lights. Just lately though, when turning the lights on first thing in the morning, with the temps in the single digits the lamp out light comes on for a couple of seconds. I believe maybe one of the other lights maybe getting ready to go out.

 

I have had no problems with the extra heat but then again I don't cruise around with them all on for extended periods. I mainly use them on side streets when I get off the major lighted streets until I get home (couple minutes).

Haven't had a lamp out problem yet. Slowweelin I'm guessing you are having a brake light problem. Do a search for "lamp out" and there are a lot of threads about the lamp out light coming on before one of the brake lights actually burns out and/or a circuit board problem in the brake light housing.

 

I drive in upstate NY for 45-60 minutes at a time at night with brite-box and upgraded silverstar bulbs with NO heating/deforming problems for 1 year now.

Also upgraded the fogs to the higer wattage output bulbs (fogzilla mod) and the housing is plastic w/glass lens, still no problems.

I have a 2-inch front shocks lift so did not adjust the headlights, but I DID raise the fog lights 2-full screw turns each.. a perfect setup IMO, very satisfied.

 

I did the 9005 silverstar bulb conversion in the fog lights and although they did not affect the housing the bulbs both burnt out in 4 months and no i did not touch the bulb with my fingers However i do use them a lot as i am on the highway 5 nights a week for about 4 hours per night, they both burnt out within a week of each other, i did replace them with the 9005's maby they will last longer in the colder winter weather.

rob

 

I put the PIAA Extreme Bulbs in and ran for 1.5 years. Never burned out on me. When you pull the headlight assembly, superglue a couple washers on the back of the two bottom screw holes, on the backside of the assembly to angle it up a little bit.

 

If you dig deep enough in the Sylvania website, they tell you the rated life of the 9005 Silverstars (9005 ST) is all of 60 hours! And they don't even put out any more light than standard halogens (1700 lumens). I'm starting to think they're a big gimmick.

http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/s...&FigNumber=126

On a related subject, is it possible to replace the stock 9006 bulbs in the foglights with 9005s without modifying anything other than the bulbs?

 

Yep, all the modification is to the bulb only, a little snip and a little fileing and it plugs right in, also have to change the o ring, i used a #115.

rob

 

its to bad chrysler cant keep the way they wire things the same.
keeping the fogs on with high beams on the wifes jeep only involved cliping 1 lead off the fog light relay... took longer to open the hood and pull the cover.. lol..

if you realy want good bulbs, grab the narva +30 bulbs, the 9005s are rated @ 1835lumen vs stock 9006 @1000 lumen.
narva also does a +30 9007
stock = 1350/1000 high/low
+30= 1400/1050 high/low
http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/BL_Headlamp.pdf
it also has a slightly diferent filiment and a higer presure mix in it producing wighter light without tinting the bulb glass wich is proven to reduce light output.
tinted bulbs are a joke!