No more messing around with plastic tiedown points!
#1
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No more messing around with plastic tiedown points!
I removed the stock glass-reinforced-plastic cleats and replaced them with these D-rings:
They have a working strength of 4400 pounds, a minimum breaking strength of 11K pounds, and (conveniently) have the same two inch mounting centers as the factory cleats. I'm reasonably confident they're stronger than the double-thick, C-channel backed bed metal to which they're now attached [grin].
They wanted to rattle a bit due to clearance between the bracket and the D-ring, but a small piece of adhesive-backed neoprene behind the D-ring solved that. The loading direction is opposite the neoprene so it will have no effect when the D-rings are being used to secure a load.
Cost was under $6 each at a local trailer supply house. Another few dollars for M8 metric bolts and washers and I was all done for under $30.
They have a working strength of 4400 pounds, a minimum breaking strength of 11K pounds, and (conveniently) have the same two inch mounting centers as the factory cleats. I'm reasonably confident they're stronger than the double-thick, C-channel backed bed metal to which they're now attached [grin].
They wanted to rattle a bit due to clearance between the bracket and the D-ring, but a small piece of adhesive-backed neoprene behind the D-ring solved that. The loading direction is opposite the neoprene so it will have no effect when the D-rings are being used to secure a load.
Cost was under $6 each at a local trailer supply house. Another few dollars for M8 metric bolts and washers and I was all done for under $30.
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When I put my bed Dodge bed liner in, you move the tie downs via a bracket. Anyway, when I reattached one of the tie downs I overtighend one of the screws and cracked the area around the screw hole. Bought another one at the dealer for the usual bargin price .
Pete
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>>I'm reasonably confident they're stronger than the double-thick, C-channel backed bed metal to which they're now attached [grin].<<
The bed is reinforced in the area of the cleats with C-channel backing plates. Threaded inserts are behind the plates, so the threads are already in place. Your point is correct, but now at least I know the strength is based on the bed and not on the plastic cleats nor their "screws of unknown quality".
If things look questionable down the road, I may install my own thicker backing plates with bolts instead of the threaded inserts. That will distribute the forces across a larger surface area. Beyond that, the only way to make it better is to connect them directly to the frame.
#11
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I did the exact same thing a year ago to tie down my ATV rack. I dident get as lucky though on the hole alignment. I had to redrill a new hole on one side of the bracket but that was abought the only difference. Now like you said the weekest point is the little bracket behind the sheet metal and its threads. I tied my ATV rack with 2 ATVs on it to those and put a few thousand miles on it with no problem.
You cant see the D loops in this pic but they look almost identical to yours. Gives you an idea of how strong they are now though.
You cant see the D loops in this pic but they look almost identical to yours. Gives you an idea of how strong they are now though.
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Not moot for the following reason...
While I agree from strength standpoint the bed wall and backing plate are now the limiting factor, the other advantage of the D-ring is that it will accept virtually ANY hook or other attachment device. The OEM cleats are "open" style cleats but have very restricted clearance underneath. I wouldn't trust just hooking under one of the "ears", so moving to the D-rings "opens up" my options.