4X4 HULK

What would be the best material to have for a 2” leveling kit for front?

1. Polyurethane
2. Aluminum
3. Steel

Original Junior

I was told steel but beware, i've heard of a few guys developing the "Death Wobble" after they did the level (poly, steel, &/or alum). I can't say for certain, but it seems that the level may not directly cause the wobble but may add to it making it more noticable. I'm keeping mine stock height to avoid the chance of developing the "Death Wobble". jm2c

phox_mulder

Option #3.

Many have used the polyplasticane ones with no problems,
but I went with steel before I got the lift.
Think about how much weight is on the front end, then make your decision.


phox

4X4 HULK

Your right, I forgot about the weight up front. When peope talk about the "Death Wobble" can this be solved with better shocks?

alltimelow1

I used steel, I was told when I bought mine that you should only use steel if you have the heavy diesel engine, dont know if this is true or not but made sense to me. Have had my leveling kit going on 70,000 miles and no problems whatsoever. PS- I did put on new shocks when I put the leveling kit on - I would recommend them.

Reload

I would recommend Superlift 2.5" springs. I had the revtek spacers and one day noticed a clicking noise on small bumps. Turns out the studs in the spacers were breaking! (two on one side and one on the other). I also had the dreaded "death wobble". I immediately went to the super lift springs and bilstien shocks. In the 76,000 miles since, I've not had another problem with the death wobble and the handling is great. When I removed the stock shocks, I noticed when I compressed the left front shock by hand it would not even rebound on its on. The shocks were shot at 22,000 miles. My 2 cents...

4X4 HULK

Reload
Where did you pick up your superlift 2.5 springs at?

djbikeman

I agree with reload. I think your best bet is to replace the springs/shocks altogether. I have had the Superlift springs for 4 months and they ride great.

Here is a link to purchase:

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/dodge4_03diesel.htm

Part #4620 includes springs and bumpstops.

I bought mine from a local dealer for only a few $ more. Better service that way.

Reload

Got mine locally. Superlift and Skyjacker are both located in the town I work in. (Monroe, Louisiana)

Boss Hoss 540

Had my Poly puck installed and the truck is smooth as silk at all speeds. The wobble problem may be more from a bad balance on the tires or a crap factory wheel! Have the t-shirt on that one. Get the tires road force balanced and any problems will go away--7 years ago had a problem with a HD Chevy and the bigger tires, had 3 different stores try to balance with some minor improvement but as a last resort tried this road force method at a car dealership of all places--like magic solved all problems! Will not have tires balanced any other way now and have not had any shimmy problems since!!!!!!

pullin hard

what is the road force method????
i would be interested in that one.
i had the wobble, but had a good shop to the front end alinment, and no problems now.
do have a slight vib at 55-60 though, due to the tires, but nothing to major.
would like to get rid of it altogether if i could.
i run the poly spacers with no probs as of yet.
was going to go steel becaus eof the wieght,but the price was almost double, and the steel would rust in no time.
poly is pretty durable and i don't think that they will squish too bad over time.
if they do, then i will go springs.

Boss Hoss 540

A wheel is applied to simulate road force--the machined also measures run out of the wheel and also advises if the tire needs to be broken down and rotated on the wheel for optimum balance. I have seen tires using the conventional spin balance need 75% less weight to achieve a balance when the road force method is used. Really helps with the big tires!!