LED lighting
#16
I think mytruck has the harness but no light. It would behelpful. I'm tired of propping up the big spotlight to see what I' doing when in the garage OP, does your truck have the insulation pad under the hood? If so, how do you plan to attach the lights? That Toyota shows the light strip stuck directly to the underside of the hood.
The OP mentioned that he is removing the under hood insulation to attach the light bars.
#18
I am looking at these for my underhood lighting
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...xture/680/463/
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...xture/680/463/
#19
I am looking at these for my underhood lighting
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...xture/680/463/
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...xture/680/463/
B.T.W., do any of you think by not having the under the insulation that I'll have to worry about my exterior hood paint from fading or peeling from the engine heat this coming summer? It sometimes get's over 100 degrees! I just removed it yesterday and didn't notice any difference in engine noise.
#22
#23
#24
I will look at my insulation as I do not think it looks like yours in regard to impressions of the various engine parts.
I was hoping mounting the lights over the insulation would help hold insulation on the hood better than it does with just the clips.
I was hoping mounting the lights over the insulation would help hold insulation on the hood better than it does with just the clips.
#26
No not at all. I used a trim tool I've had for several years now. You just need something to wedge under both sides of the clip and pry it out. I didn't want to damage the clips in case I needed them again for another hood insulation pad.
Hood looks like without insulation (minus the staining from battery acid).
Hood looks like without insulation (minus the staining from battery acid).
#28
I'd like to do something like this too (also don't have an underhood light)... but what about the heat from the motor? I could see it melting those lights if you tow heavy a lot.
Rob
Rob
#30
LED's come in a variety of flavors. You have to be careful to match what you want for the conditions you're after.
Most LED's are NOT set up for external use. They're not heat or water resistant. Make sure what you buy is specifically rated for the engine bay. Years ago I cam across some rock crawler pods that looked pretty useful, but now I can't find them.
LED's also come in a variety of light temperatures. Get the brightest white you can get.
Having a strip or two on the underside of the hood is nice for things like checking the oil and stuff. But if you actually need to make a repair, they don't work well. The minute you stick your head and arms in there, you're in a deep shadow and can't see a darned thing.
Consider placing strips or pods on the fenders, and under the firewall ledge - low and close to the engine and other things that might need repair.
LED's can be very directional, with a tight cone of light. That works really well if you set them up right; less glare as you're working.
Wire them in parallel. If one set dies, the others will continue to work.
Of course, you need some kind of switch to turn them on. Mercury switches are out. But pin switches are readily available to turn the lights on whenever you open the hood. But a simple manual waterproof rocker switch works just fine, too. As long as you don't forget to turn them off.
They don't draw much power at all. Big pods and bars only draw about 200 mA. You can string a few of them together and run them for hours without running down the battery much.
You MUST have some sort of circuit protection. A simple in line 2-3A fuse will suffice. I prefer to use an automatic resetting circuit breaker. A little more cost initially. But can save huge hassle down the road.
But, if your goal is roadside repair, your best bet is an LED head lamp. Incredibly useful, cheap, reliable. $15 at target. The only down side is you have to carry spare batteries. http://www.target.com/p/energizer-6-...FYpaMgodGmgAnA
Most LED's are NOT set up for external use. They're not heat or water resistant. Make sure what you buy is specifically rated for the engine bay. Years ago I cam across some rock crawler pods that looked pretty useful, but now I can't find them.
LED's also come in a variety of light temperatures. Get the brightest white you can get.
Having a strip or two on the underside of the hood is nice for things like checking the oil and stuff. But if you actually need to make a repair, they don't work well. The minute you stick your head and arms in there, you're in a deep shadow and can't see a darned thing.
Consider placing strips or pods on the fenders, and under the firewall ledge - low and close to the engine and other things that might need repair.
LED's can be very directional, with a tight cone of light. That works really well if you set them up right; less glare as you're working.
Wire them in parallel. If one set dies, the others will continue to work.
Of course, you need some kind of switch to turn them on. Mercury switches are out. But pin switches are readily available to turn the lights on whenever you open the hood. But a simple manual waterproof rocker switch works just fine, too. As long as you don't forget to turn them off.
They don't draw much power at all. Big pods and bars only draw about 200 mA. You can string a few of them together and run them for hours without running down the battery much.
You MUST have some sort of circuit protection. A simple in line 2-3A fuse will suffice. I prefer to use an automatic resetting circuit breaker. A little more cost initially. But can save huge hassle down the road.
But, if your goal is roadside repair, your best bet is an LED head lamp. Incredibly useful, cheap, reliable. $15 at target. The only down side is you have to carry spare batteries. http://www.target.com/p/energizer-6-...FYpaMgodGmgAnA
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