Anyone know of any wires near the firewall in the engine compartment that are keyed-on hot?

In need an ignition-on source for my remote control aux switches wiring project. I'll be running this wire to the ignition-on source with the existing OEM wiring along the high side of the firewall. I'd rather not poke test light holes through multiple wire insulation to find one if there's someone on here that can point me in the right direction.

 

I opened the fuse panel on the dr inner fenderwell and used a empty spot that was to be used for the rear window defroster.I do not have the defroster and no problems yet..

 

Try this: www.directechs.com
Password is 123456
Click on directwire at the top, then fill in the truck info.

Another easy place to get switched power is behind the radio dash. On the SRT-10 it has a push to start ignition button on the dash where the left little pocket is on our trucks. Behind that pocket/dash is the pre-wired plug for that switch/button. So, you have ignition right there!

 

Thanks for the link - I'll see if it lists anything I can distinguish from under the hood.

I'd like to say that anything in the cab, I'd like to discount as an option. The whole goal of this project is not to run any wires into the cab for auxilliary switchting. All on/off switching of relays for driving lights, fog lights, continuous duty solenoid, exhaust brake, and back-up lights will be done via remote control from the driver's seat not unlike a key fob for a security system.

As far as cost goes taking into account wire and switches, this is a cheaper and a cleaner installation than on my '98 previously.

 

Then I would just use one of the positions in the fuse box under the hood.

 

Wouldn't those all be hot already?

 

NO! Switched power still uses a fuse. Use a multi-meter, which ever one shows 12V with the key on and 0V with the key off is switched. Of coarse you want to be on the correct side of the fuse so that you get the protection of the fuse.

 

Gotcha!! Maybe grid heater a place to start? Any others to suggest?

 

If you are doing lights, which usually pull a lot of power, you may want to directly wire it to a larger power wire (ie: ignition harness) instead of the fuse box and make sure to use an inline fuse. Most of the accessory fuses on the truck are small and would not handle the accessory plus lights.

 

the fuse locations in the fuse panel that are NOT used , are hot, on the 'one' side that is there...you could use a 'push in' connector for your hot wire...

 

I have relays and direct power from the battery for all that stuff through a continuous duty solenoid.

What I need the ignition-on power for is the learn routine on the remote control receiver -- maybe 0.1 Amp draw when key is on. This wire also tells the receiver to turn all switches off when ignition is shut off (in case I forget to push a button on the remote).

 

With a low draw you should be able to use just about any switched power.

 

I believe the wire is a pink/yellow, it is in the bundle of 20 or so wires by where your left foot rests, closest to the floor. I tapped into that wire for my gauges. Just to verify put your head by the pedals and see what the color of wire goes the the panel cigar lighter on the drivers side. That wire is hot with key on ACC or ON.

 

I'll have to look for that if I can't find one in the engine compartment. Thanks.

It'll have to be done when I get back home got my marching orders for work around noon and left out of town. So, truck is in the garage waiting for me to get back to complete this project.

Keep the suggestions coming. I'll take all into account.

 

bump.......