This may have been covered before, but this is my first winter with a Dodge Cummins.

I returned from a 3 1/2 week holiday in India (+30C) on Friday to find weekend temperatures in the -33C range. With the truck plugged in, starting was not a problem, however getting the engine to normal operating temperature (hence the cab warm) has been a problem.

I have a "plexiglass" winter front on the truck, but without hauling a load or trailer, I can drive for an hour or more in these temperatures without the temperature guage moving into the low end of the "normal" scale. The result is only luke warm air from the heater. I was stopped in traffic beside a 2003 - 3500 Cummins yesterday and asked the driver if he had heat. His response was: "very little".

Is there a trick to geting the engine to warm up more quickly (if at all)? It's a long winter up here in central Canada!

 

I have found that some cardboard directly in front of the radiator and behind the other coolers is about the only way to generate some heat in the engine. These Cummins are designed to run loads in the middle of summer, not winter!

 

I have the snap in plastic cold front that goes in the grille and as well I have a custom made cold front that covers the aftercooler core and rad from top to bottom. In the custom made cold front I have two flaps that open up for air if required, (they have been closed for two months now). If the temp goes above 32F or 0C I open one of the flaps and if it goes above 40 F or 5C I open both flaps. The plastic cold front does not cover the opening above the bumper where the tow hooks are and this allows lots of cold air. The truck still needs to be driven to get up to temp.
Jim O

 

You know, I have been reading various posts recently where people have complained about not getting any heat in the cab. I don't get it. My truck sits outside all day while at work at -10 degrees (that would be Fahrenheit), and that’s the day's high, and I don't have any problems with heat. I don't plug the truck in (no plug close by) and I don't run a winter front.

Maybe it is in the technique . Here's what I do. I crank up the truck and let idle for 3 to 5 minutes (remote start ). My heat is already turned on when I get in, fan on high, set to recirculate instead of drawing in fresh air, and set to blow in your face, instead of on your feet. Having the air set to recirculate and blow in your face instead of on your feet makes a huge difference, at least until you get some heat going (don't ask why??). Within less than 2 minutes, I have good heat coming out of the vents. As long as I leave it on recirculate until the engine warms up, it will get hotter by the second.

My engine is at minimum operating temp within 5 miles. Then I have enough heat to run me out of there.

My old 12 valve though, I could go from work all the way home and never have an ounce of heat. I absolutely love the heater in this truck.

 

I spoke to the dealer about this and he suggested I bring the truck in so they can test the thermostat. I'm taking it in today.

In reply to some of the posts; I have noticed that there is a big difference between an outside teperature of -18C (-1F) and -35C (-31F) from a warmup point of view. I had a look under the hood yesterday and was puzzled about where to add cardboard. I counted 4 cooling radiators which I am guessing are (from engine to front): (1) engine radiator, (2) cooler for turbo, (3)air conditioner, (4) transmission cooler (not sure about 3 + 4). The only cooling unit that was warm to the touch when I pulled the truck into my warehouse at work was the number (2) unit, which appears to be shorter than the others (top to bottom) and light silver in color - no fins.

I wouldn't want to place a piece of cardboard on the front radiator for fear of allowing #2 to get too hot (turbo overheat??). Also, I tow a horse trailer, so I would need something easily removeable.

Perhaps a piece that drops into place between the rad and the turbo cooler? What might be better than a solid piece is something that has a space in it near the top and is closed towards the bottom? Also, the piece would ideally be as tall as the rad, so it leans against the rad housing at the bottom, as opposed to the cooling fins at some point (don't want to damage the radiator). This way, the hottest part of the rad will get some indirect cooling (remember I have a winter front) near the top and get covered at the bottom where the winter front has left the rads exposed??

It would have to be something easy to "drop in" and remove, as the weather changes from week to week and I also tow a couple of times/ week.

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

I put a piece of cardboard with a 10" hole in the center directly in front of the radiator. This still allows flow for the air to air. I attached it with some zip ties and have had no issues when air temp fluctuates between -30 C and +5 C, so it does not need to be removed until spring.

Brian

 

It sounds like you have a good solution. How did you suspend the mud flap so it doesn't fall through?

 

Thanks Commando, Now all I have to do is find a cheap new truck mud flap!!

 

Hi...sounds to me like you have thermostat problems...we had a cold snap here last week and with temps in the minus 40 C range I had lots of cab heat no frost on the windows and my temp gauge was reading 95C...it did take a few miles to get up to temp but i had no starting problems and plenty of heat after perhaps 5 miles..8 kms...i had trouble staying warm when I got out of the truck though

 

Vernl,

I had the truck in the dealership yesterday for this problem. I think they are a bit dense though. They said it appeared to be operating normally, as it warmed up (i.e. was throwing heat) within a few minutes. I know this can't be the case, and told them it warms up quickly at my office too - after I pull it out of a warm warehouse! They suggested I may have to leave it overnight. Last weekend we had -35C here as well and I can tell you that no amount of driving will get the temp guage to 95C (while driving it without a load in the bed).

I have loyalty to the dealership I bought my truck from, but it's a 20km trip and they ordered the wrong replacement mirror twice! They get one more chance on this problem after which I'll be heading to a different dealership to have the problem looked at!

PS Do you have a winter front or something else covering your radiator?

 

2 words. Exhaust brake. Mine will warm up no prob with it on. Long time with it off. I get normal op temp if it idles in my driveway with the e brake on and high idle. Driving in city traffic it will drop down. With the 6 spd I can rev it up higher if I want to get heat quicker around town or highway. I don't have a winter front. It is minus eleven here this am.

 

Hi
It still sounds like a poorly diagnosed thermostat problem...perhaps not seating properly under high circulation pressures seen at highway speed..as I mentioned i have plenty of heat with normal highway travel although it takes a few miles to get the gauge up to 95C i have good cab heat right away ...also I have no winter front of any kind