Have you flushed your brake fluid?
#16
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From here http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Jegs and Summit Racing also carries the power bleeder.
MikeyB
Jegs and Summit Racing also carries the power bleeder.
MikeyB
While I think every oil change is overkill at least doing it that often you won't end up with stuck bleeder (and/or broken) valves.
#17
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#18
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I don't flush mine until I change brake parts.
What I do between brake changes, every oil change is, I suck out the brake fluid from the master cyclinder and renew it. I found that works pretty good for me.
Dave
What I do between brake changes, every oil change is, I suck out the brake fluid from the master cyclinder and renew it. I found that works pretty good for me.
Dave
#19
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Brake fluid will consume some moisture and changing it is a big help. Some of the DOT 5 brake fluids are silicone and will not absorb water. The silicone is made for higher temps like racing. Here is the issue... If the brake fluid will not absorb the water and it creates a small puddle inside the Caliper it will cause rust and corrosion. If you are using silicone fluid, the standard bleeding operation most likely will not remove the puddle. You need to use the power bleeded and remove the caliper bolts. Oonce the bleed screw is open, turn the caliper in every direction so if there is a puddle it will go out of the bleed screw and out to the catch bottle. Trust me you will be suprised. I choose not to run silicone brake fluid in anything driven on the street for the above reason.
#20
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Thanks to this thread it made me start thinking about my own brake fluid.
Ironically, I change all of my trucks fluids myself pretty often....every 5k on engine oil, and 20k on pretty much everything else....trans, diffs, ps fluid, coolant etc. But I have never touched my brake fluid....in 5+ years and 119k miles.
Now that im aware of this, i'll prob start doing it annually...or say every 20K miles with my other maintenance items.
"Just Brakes" said they will change it out for $39.99....using DOT 3. Im still on my original brakes/pads/rotors etc....and plan to replace them probably early next year. But im worried about the age of my brake fluid.
Any reason I can't trust 'Just Brakes' to do this task? Is DOT 3 the proper brake fluid?....or should I use DOT 4 or something else? Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
..
Ironically, I change all of my trucks fluids myself pretty often....every 5k on engine oil, and 20k on pretty much everything else....trans, diffs, ps fluid, coolant etc. But I have never touched my brake fluid....in 5+ years and 119k miles.
Now that im aware of this, i'll prob start doing it annually...or say every 20K miles with my other maintenance items.
"Just Brakes" said they will change it out for $39.99....using DOT 3. Im still on my original brakes/pads/rotors etc....and plan to replace them probably early next year. But im worried about the age of my brake fluid.
Any reason I can't trust 'Just Brakes' to do this task? Is DOT 3 the proper brake fluid?....or should I use DOT 4 or something else? Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
..
#21
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Hey Robert,
Personally I would it myself. I don't trust quick lube places and brake shops. When replacing the fluid I always use DOT 4. Has higher specs than DOT 3.
MikeyB
Personally I would it myself. I don't trust quick lube places and brake shops. When replacing the fluid I always use DOT 4. Has higher specs than DOT 3.
MikeyB
#22
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I bleed the brakes every three years, on everything I drive or ride. I use a vacuum bleader. http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp It comes will all the adapters you need from motorcycles to cars and trucks..It is also very handy for removing power steering fluid or any fluid out of a reservoir.
I also use ATE Superblue brake fluid. It has a very high wet boiling point, and comes in blue or amber color so you know when the system is flushed completely. Available at most places that service BMW/Porsche.
I also use ATE Superblue brake fluid. It has a very high wet boiling point, and comes in blue or amber color so you know when the system is flushed completely. Available at most places that service BMW/Porsche.
#24
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If you're going to do this job fairly often, get a set of Russell Speed Bleeders. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...domestic.shtml
For my track car, I bleed the brakes before every event. That's about 8 times a year. I've used power bleeders, vacuum bleeders, pump and release, reverse flush - you name it, I'v tried it.
Then I installed the speed bleeders. I get this job done so quickly and easily, you can't believe it. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 turn. Connect a small catch bottle - I use the cheap bleeding kits available from any parts store. Pump the brakes 10 times, and I'm done. I do front and rear at the same time, using two catch bottles. If you had 4 bottles, you could do them all at the same time.
On my brakes, 10 pumps gets the resevoir pretty low, but does not uncover the ports. If the ports are uncovered, it will suck air. Then you have a bear of a time getting it out.
Another method that works well is to force fluid into the caliper bleeder. That way, you ensure that the fresh fluid goes directly into the caliper. That's how I do it on my motorcycle, using a large irrigation syringe.
As for fluid, there's no need to use DoT5 on a street car or truck. It's a very differant fluid that doesn't mix with any other fluid. It's very high temp, and only for race cars. If you think you need a ultra high temp fluid, you can purchase glycol based stuff from Jegs or Summit. But, if you're boiling DoT4 in your truck, you're doing something seriosly wrong, and need to re-evaluate your driving technique.
For my track car, I bleed the brakes before every event. That's about 8 times a year. I've used power bleeders, vacuum bleeders, pump and release, reverse flush - you name it, I'v tried it.
Then I installed the speed bleeders. I get this job done so quickly and easily, you can't believe it. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 turn. Connect a small catch bottle - I use the cheap bleeding kits available from any parts store. Pump the brakes 10 times, and I'm done. I do front and rear at the same time, using two catch bottles. If you had 4 bottles, you could do them all at the same time.
On my brakes, 10 pumps gets the resevoir pretty low, but does not uncover the ports. If the ports are uncovered, it will suck air. Then you have a bear of a time getting it out.
Another method that works well is to force fluid into the caliper bleeder. That way, you ensure that the fresh fluid goes directly into the caliper. That's how I do it on my motorcycle, using a large irrigation syringe.
As for fluid, there's no need to use DoT5 on a street car or truck. It's a very differant fluid that doesn't mix with any other fluid. It's very high temp, and only for race cars. If you think you need a ultra high temp fluid, you can purchase glycol based stuff from Jegs or Summit. But, if you're boiling DoT4 in your truck, you're doing something seriosly wrong, and need to re-evaluate your driving technique.
#25
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Normally I don't trust them either. My biggest concern was them trying to "upsale" me and say I need this and that.
Time and money are just short right now and I don't want to spend a whole day messing with this. (im sure it would take me that long bymyself) And since I haven't ever done this before (on any vehicle), I'd kinda rather have someone around to supervise me.
My fluid is over 5 years old! I guess I feel a little panicked. Plus I don't have a "bleeder". I may give XLR8R a call and see he wants the job. I want it done I just dont want to mess with it right now.....by myself.
..
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#28
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Hey William,
No problem. My adapter only fits the Chrysler vehicles but you can order adapters for both GM and Ford, p/n 1108. http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=170264840
Oh, I'll also need p/n 0400 for the fitting.
MikeyB
No problem. My adapter only fits the Chrysler vehicles but you can order adapters for both GM and Ford, p/n 1108. http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=170264840
Oh, I'll also need p/n 0400 for the fitting.
MikeyB
#29
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If you're going to do this job fairly often, get a set of Russell Speed Bleeders. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...domestic.shtml
For my track car, I bleed the brakes before every event. That's about 8 times a year. I've used power bleeders, vacuum bleeders, pump and release, reverse flush - you name it, I'v tried it.
Then I installed the speed bleeders. I get this job done so quickly and easily, you can't believe it. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 turn. Connect a small catch bottle - I use the cheap bleeding kits available from any parts store. Pump the brakes 10 times, and I'm done. I do front and rear at the same time, using two catch bottles. If you had 4 bottles, you could do them all at the same time.
On my brakes, 10 pumps gets the resevoir pretty low, but does not uncover the ports. If the ports are uncovered, it will suck air. Then you have a bear of a time getting it out.
For my track car, I bleed the brakes before every event. That's about 8 times a year. I've used power bleeders, vacuum bleeders, pump and release, reverse flush - you name it, I'v tried it.
Then I installed the speed bleeders. I get this job done so quickly and easily, you can't believe it. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 turn. Connect a small catch bottle - I use the cheap bleeding kits available from any parts store. Pump the brakes 10 times, and I'm done. I do front and rear at the same time, using two catch bottles. If you had 4 bottles, you could do them all at the same time.
On my brakes, 10 pumps gets the resevoir pretty low, but does not uncover the ports. If the ports are uncovered, it will suck air. Then you have a bear of a time getting it out.
Found this thread doing a search. At 5 yrs on original brake fluid time for a flush. I don't see our trucks listed for the speed bleeders what one did you use? So it basically has a check valve that doesn't let air come back in the bleeder when you release the brakes?
edit: never mind found it Russell 639590. less than half the price of the power bleeder
#30
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I understand (i think) that back flushing (compressing the wheel cylinders) can damage the ABS unit. Is there any chance of goofing up the ABS doing a simple flush on my 03?