Front Right Caliper Replacement and Brake Bleeding Questions
#1
Front Right Caliper Replacement and Brake Bleeding Questions
I've got a 2006 Megacab dually. The front right caliper I think has frozen up as the brakes on that side were hot and really smelling.
1. I'm going to change the caliper and I think I've got that down outside of...is there a different procedure for the dually? Those wheels really are strange to me, I haven't done too much work on this truck in that regard.
2. I'm planning on bleeding the brakes with my Motive Power Bleeder as well. Can I get at the bleeders without taking the wheels off? Especially the dually rear wheels, that looks like a real pain in the butt, if I had to take both off just to bleed. (Bleeding because I don't think its been done and the fluid looks very dirty.)
1. I'm going to change the caliper and I think I've got that down outside of...is there a different procedure for the dually? Those wheels really are strange to me, I haven't done too much work on this truck in that regard.
2. I'm planning on bleeding the brakes with my Motive Power Bleeder as well. Can I get at the bleeders without taking the wheels off? Especially the dually rear wheels, that looks like a real pain in the butt, if I had to take both off just to bleed. (Bleeding because I don't think its been done and the fluid looks very dirty.)
#2
OK, since no one wants to venture a comment, I'll answer as to what I've done so far. Straight forward from what I've read on this site about removing the caliper. Problem are the nubs on the brake pads...you have to push in the piston to get the caliper off. Good advice.
I can get at all the bleeders from the ground without taking off the wheels, but the issue is going to be not breaking off the bleeders. I tried it on the old caliper and it cracked right off. I'm soaking the ones on the truck right now. Don't want to change more calipers.
I can bleed the system without issue once the bleeders are loosened and don't need the scan tool as long as I don't break any lines open on the ABS unit.
Any other advice greatly appreciated...
I can get at all the bleeders from the ground without taking off the wheels, but the issue is going to be not breaking off the bleeders. I tried it on the old caliper and it cracked right off. I'm soaking the ones on the truck right now. Don't want to change more calipers.
I can bleed the system without issue once the bleeders are loosened and don't need the scan tool as long as I don't break any lines open on the ABS unit.
Any other advice greatly appreciated...
#3
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Live Oak Texas
OK, since no one wants to venture a comment, I'll answer as to what I've done so far. Straight forward from what I've read on this site about removing the caliper. Problem are the nubs on the brake pads...you have to push in the piston to get the caliper off. Good advice.
I can get at all the bleeders from the ground without taking off the wheels, but the issue is going to be not breaking off the bleeders. I tried it on the old caliper and it cracked right off. I'm soaking the ones on the truck right now. Don't want to change more calipers.
I can bleed the system without issue once the bleeders are loosened and don't need the scan tool as long as I don't break any lines open on the ABS unit.
Any other advice greatly appreciated...
I can get at all the bleeders from the ground without taking off the wheels, but the issue is going to be not breaking off the bleeders. I tried it on the old caliper and it cracked right off. I'm soaking the ones on the truck right now. Don't want to change more calipers.
I can bleed the system without issue once the bleeders are loosened and don't need the scan tool as long as I don't break any lines open on the ABS unit.
Any other advice greatly appreciated...
I hate to say it but you should always replace calipers in pairs. What ever is causing the RF to stick (most likely road grime) will probably cause the LF to stick as well.
When you bleed the system, do it like this.... RR, LR,RF,LF. This is going from farthest to nearest of the master cylinder. Buy a couple of the 32oz bottles of brake fluid and run it ALL through.
#5
Great advice thank you.
Rock, I'm in Aiken, SC but the truck was bought in Virginia. There was some leakage going on around the caliper, but the fluid is also dirty. Therefore, if I replace one and am forewarned about the other side, am I doing anything dangerous in not replacing the other, driver side?
Torquefan, thanks for the advice, I will follow that and if need to, will try heat as well though I really don't want to go that route. I only have those small propane torches.
Rock, I'm in Aiken, SC but the truck was bought in Virginia. There was some leakage going on around the caliper, but the fluid is also dirty. Therefore, if I replace one and am forewarned about the other side, am I doing anything dangerous in not replacing the other, driver side?
Torquefan, thanks for the advice, I will follow that and if need to, will try heat as well though I really don't want to go that route. I only have those small propane torches.
#6
I dont have a dually but I have done two brake jobs on my truck and found that if you put a little bit of heat around the bleeder with a propane torch it usually loosens them up. My rt caliper froze up and I ended up replacing it. Then with in a six month period I ended up replacing the other three. I live in the rust belt.
#7
Well , I tried all the fixes and since i need to replace the pads on the driver's side, I tried the bleeder on that caliper. Soaked with PB Blaster, tapped it with a hammer and used heat a couple of times.
I did get some movement out of it but then it just twisted right off. Looking at another caliper for the driver side now. Pads are on the way from Rock Auto.
I'm going to a shop I take my cars to and have them heat up the rears, or I will just leave them alone. Don't know yet. I really don't want to remove those dual wheels...
I did get some movement out of it but then it just twisted right off. Looking at another caliper for the driver side now. Pads are on the way from Rock Auto.
I'm going to a shop I take my cars to and have them heat up the rears, or I will just leave them alone. Don't know yet. I really don't want to remove those dual wheels...
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#8
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 8
From: Live Oak Texas
If you only replace one caliper you will be fine. No danger in doing it at all. I only suggest both because in many years it seems the the people that only did one were doing the other side a short time later. But you will be fine!!
#10
Unfortunately, with the bleeder broken off on the driver side caliper now, I think i will be replacing it as well. The new pads are due on Thursday, so I'll have to pick up the caliper for the driver side and get it installed.
As mentioned, I think I'll take the truck to the shop to have someone with a torch heat up the rear bleeders. I don't want to really go through replacing those as well.
As mentioned, I think I'll take the truck to the shop to have someone with a torch heat up the rear bleeders. I don't want to really go through replacing those as well.
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