mxflyboy

Hi there guys. This is my first post on this forum but this topic is right up my alley. I am the install manager at a high end car audio shop in Canada.

First off, the steering wheel controls can be used, via a module, with 90% of the aftermarket headunits. Generally speaking it must be IR remote capable and not be a Sony (they are done differently).

As for tapping into the factory signal before the amp, it doesn't work. Chrysler/infinti systems are not like other "high end factory" systems. What I mean by this is the headunits are all interchangable. The infinti head will work in a truck without an amp and vice versa. They all have a speaker level (high power)output with the infinti amp being designed to accept it. What this means is if you install the XM3 inline on these wires, you will overdrive the input stage of the XM3 and seriously underdrive the input back to the amp.

You can, however, use a series of adapters (line out converter, line driver, etc.) to make it work, but at that point you would be far better off to add an aftermarket amp.

An ideal system while retaining the factory head would be to add a line out converter to the factory head, running to an amp, running to a good set of speakers. A subwoofer is always a welcome addition to any system but usually requires some space to be lost. ie: under the back seat.

The options are endless when it comes to this stuff but I am here to help/answer questions for anyone. E-mail me if you would like.

Tyler

MAJORCOMMOTION

It's done! I said crap on the factory radio and found an Alpine this weekend on clearance at Circuit City (last years model). It's my first Alpine and I'm very impressed with it. It's got 3 pre-outs for front, back, and sub (controllable sub level) and it's xm ready if and when I decide to do that. Decided to do the install myself because I didn't want to wait 2 hours at the store. This proved to be a good idea. The Metra replacement kit for the radio is nice, but I made a few mods. If you look at some of the other pics of radios in our trucks they sit in flush with the dash, which is nice, but there is a gap all the way around the radio. I cutout and sanded down a little insert that comes with the kit so there is no gap and the radio looks good. The radio by itself made a big difference in the sound of the factory speakers, and the green of the Alpine kinda matches the green interior lights.

The big thing is the sub, which I installed last night. I had a JL 10 and an amp. from my last truck so I ordered a moose audio box for it. It came in yesterday and I have to say it's pretty nice. I went by and picked up an amp. wiring kit and had at it. It's my first wiring job, but it wasn't too bad. It took a couple of hours and some bloody fingers, but it's done and it's nice. The wiring is pretty easy because all the trim pops off and back on. I had some trouble around the seatbelt pillar on both sides because I didn't want to take it all the way out. Had a harder time the RCA cable, which I ran down the passenger side of the truck. It's just really hard to get behind the glove box and air bags, so I ran it out the front of the radio housing down to the glove box and under to the trim. Used some zip ties to keep it out of view. The amp is actually hidden behind the sup box under the back seat. So you see nothing. It's clean, and I have so say I'm impressed with it. I need to get my hands on a camera so I can put some pictures up.

All and All:
180 for Alpine, wiring kit(2), and mounting kit
99 + shipping for the box
65 for the Amp kit.
Sounds great, but need to replace the stock speakers. That's going to have to wait for more funds.

JKE

Hey MAJOR - glad to hear the wiring and system turned out good. How is the base on that sub? how much power are you running to it again?

JKE

Mopar Jim

MXflyboy, welcome to DTR from another newbie! I've been really pleased by the generous people here - tremendous amount of knowledge in this community. Being here is making my evolving purchase specs more intelligent.

If I choose to forego one of the factory premium radios and NOT to run a subwoofer (I'm probably going to have use for all of that underseat storage) is there a way to get decent bottom end kick out of speakers which can fit into the stock locations?

I'm not talking about rattling the windows on my street - I'm not a hip-hop person - but I do appreciate decent punch down low, whether it's Beethoven or grunge.

Do you have any thoughts on smart choices of capability in an aftermarket head unit? Are front-end connections for MP3s like iPods becoming common, or are things moving toward dedicated on-board MP3s like the Music Keg?

Jim

Stevenc

Just got a set of those Kenwood 6969ie for $72 at Circuit City. They had to do the price match deal since Best Buy has them for $69.

Much better than the $89 CC had them for. So if you guys are looking to buy this speaker you might want to take this approach.

04ctd

Tyler - that's the info this thread needed - nice first post - welcome.

so, you may as well put in a good aftermarket deck with the remote module. I never realized the remote module was IR.

can you post a thread on just the Steering wheel module adapter?

alpine's are very high power now, with a built in High-pass for the built in amp, with a defeat if you use all outboard amps....hmm....the kid's got a KILLER apline in her car...with a remote...who wants her 95 Eclipse so I can rob her radio?

MAJORCOMMOTION

JKE- The bass is good, but it's not as deep as it was in my other truck, which had more air space. I'm giving that JL 300 watts right know, which is a little too high according to the specs but it's handling it fine. Since I didn't finish until late the other night I haven't had a chance to tweak the amp/crossover yet. I think I have it turned way down, so that could be why the bass isn't as deep. As for losing that space... you don't loose much because there's not a lot that can go in there. I had a small toolbox in there but I converted it to a soft pack and put it on the other side. IMO the bass is really good for such a small space. I wanted good sound and wasn't looking for window rattling, and I think I've accomplished that. The best part about it is that it's all completely stealth until you lift the seat. I also really enjoyed doing the installs...It's like my own little version of Moster Garage.

JKE

MAJOR - good job. Better to have too much power than not enough in this case. Amp clip will destroy a sub quickly. Since you have plenty of power, turn your amp gain all the way to minimum and then adjust your crossover.

I too do not want the window rattle deal. I want a good solid "THUMP" to go with country and rock.

To go deeper, I think you would need more space and/or a bigger sub. I am still checking it out for my 12......Good choice on the Head unit. I have always liked Alpine...glad you are happy...JKE

Jerry R

I have just the stock radio and cassette. Do the Kenwood 6969ie really make a difference? You know one that you can tell.

RamDan03

If you listen to your tunes quite often and are in your truck quite a bit, then yes it will be a huge difference. Immediately I noticed that the music was much more crisp.

mxflyboy

Mopar Jim: The best way to get a little more bottom without a sub is to put in a good quality set of 6.5" components and good solid power running them. I prefer Focal's. They are a little on the pricey side, but worth it to most who listen to them.

The most important part about this is the install. you would need to build a plate to adapt the 6x9 whole in the truck to the round driver. It is very important that this is SOLID. This get rid of unwanted panel resinating.

Ideally, you would also want "deaden" the door. Also known as dynamat. What you do is apply a sheet of deading directly on to the metal of the door. It is an adhesive backed product that is applied with a heat gun. My favorite brand is Cascade Audio. What this process does is effectivly "seal" the door up to form an enclosure inside the door. The difference in low end response is night and day.

As for power, the new head unit's do have a lot of power built in, as some others have said. The alpine is the mercedes of car audio and probably has the most power. Although, most any amp will have more power than the best head unit. I would recommend getting a deck with decent features, and adding an amp. If your not doing subs anyway, the cost is not that much comparitivly.

hope this helped out a bit.

Tyler

boostin

Something else to consider, if you want your sub and storage space. I raised the back seat in my truck 3 inches,now I have room for larger sub box + more storage underseat. you do lose about 3 inches of head room,but you can see over the front passengers.

JKE

boostin - I didn't really think about raising the seat. Even 1 - 2 inches would help gain the air space needed for my 12. Did you use box tubing for spacers or what?

JKE

JKE

got in there sunday and measured a few things. I can get over 1 cubic foot of air space (not subtracting speaker volume) without raising the seat. The 12 will fit just fine. My 6x9's will fit great too. I just need to get the proper size torx bit to remove the door handle...will get some of this done tonight .

JKE