E rated, or D rated tires
01-03-2007, 04:30 PM
#16
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If the weight rating on my load rating D tires is more than sufficient for the loads I place on the tires and I am not over-inflating the tires, then what seems to be the problem? True, an E rated tire has stronger sidewalls and tread area, but if I run a D rated tire and stay within the tires specs, I don't understand why that is going to create a problem. Especially considering when 70% of the time Im empty and it doesn't matter. The ride is much nicer too.
01-03-2007, 04:31 PM
#17
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Quick tire lesson.
First the ply ratings were originated when they used to use cotton as the side wall material, (before my time, and that’s been a long, long time ago) not relevant anymore. The industry then switched to load range A=2 plys, B=4 plys, C= 6 plys, D=8 plys, E=10 plys etc. Here’s where it get a little confusing.
For any given tire size (265/75R16 for example), the Load range actually determines the amount of air pressure you can put in the tire. For a tire with a load range of C you can put a maximum of 50lbs of air in, a load range of D, a max of 65lbs of air in, and a load range of E a maximum of 80lbs of air in. The amount of air that you put in the tire determines the amount of weight that tire can safely handle, (using the same size tire, different sizes will handle different weights).
Let go back to our example tire a 265/75R16, at 50lbs of air this size tire is rated to handle a maximum of 2470lbs, at 65lbs of air this tire is rated to handle a maximum of 3000lbs of air, at 80lbs of air the tire is rated to handle a maximum of 3415lbs.
It doesn’t matter what load range your tire is, if it is inflated to 50lbs of air that tire is rated to handle 2470lbs. even though it is a load range E, if you need it to handle more weight you must put in more air pressure.
First the ply ratings were originated when they used to use cotton as the side wall material, (before my time, and that’s been a long, long time ago) not relevant anymore. The industry then switched to load range A=2 plys, B=4 plys, C= 6 plys, D=8 plys, E=10 plys etc. Here’s where it get a little confusing.
For any given tire size (265/75R16 for example), the Load range actually determines the amount of air pressure you can put in the tire. For a tire with a load range of C you can put a maximum of 50lbs of air in, a load range of D, a max of 65lbs of air in, and a load range of E a maximum of 80lbs of air in. The amount of air that you put in the tire determines the amount of weight that tire can safely handle, (using the same size tire, different sizes will handle different weights).
Let go back to our example tire a 265/75R16, at 50lbs of air this size tire is rated to handle a maximum of 2470lbs, at 65lbs of air this tire is rated to handle a maximum of 3000lbs of air, at 80lbs of air the tire is rated to handle a maximum of 3415lbs.
It doesn’t matter what load range your tire is, if it is inflated to 50lbs of air that tire is rated to handle 2470lbs. even though it is a load range E, if you need it to handle more weight you must put in more air pressure.
The factory tire is load range E and if I was picking between two tires of the same size and brand I would pick E over D for my truck. But I am currently running D (BFG) because the E was not available in the size and tread pattern I wanted, and because I don't exceed the load rating clearly molded into the tire's sidewall. The 285s have as high or higher weight capacity as the 265s that came on the truck. And, I would have picked the load range E if it was available at the time, but it wasn't.
01-03-2007, 04:34 PM
#18
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If the weight rating on my load rating D tires is more than sufficient for the loads I place on the tires and I am not over-inflating the tires, then what seems to be the problem? True, an E rated tire has stronger sidewalls and tread area, but if I run a D rated tire and stay within the tires specs, I don't understand why that is going to create a problem. Especially considering when 70% of the time Im empty and it doesn't matter. The ride is much nicer too.
01-03-2007, 05:03 PM
#19
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Run from Sears and get some better tires from a competent tire store. Another thing they do is set you up with free flat repair, but they just plug the leak with yarn instead of an inside patch. Bad.
While you're at Sears remember to NOT buy a battery there. Remember the expose' about them re-selling used batteries? My Dad had to get three batteries from them before one would hold a charge, then I saw the news story and thought hmmmmm.
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01-03-2007, 05:31 PM
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I will use what rating is listed in the owners manual, sure would hate to have a claim denied because of tires. Or worse yet have or be in some sort of traffic fatality (your or others fault), you will have DOT or FDOT all over that truck like a fox in a hen house. We can discuss this matter until we all are blue in the face but it comes down to this: there are two things that will keep you alive on the road, one your brakes and two your tires. And I think everyone will agree each and every ones family is way more important than a wrong rated tire on a truck!
floridagc
floridagc
01-03-2007, 05:59 PM
#21
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Say yes to "E's"
It only took a near catastrophic blowout@65mph using "D" rated tires to make a believer out of me. Damage to my '99 came to $3350.00,all in about 15 secs. Never again. It's like a lot of things in life,I learned the hard way. Luckily I didn't hurt anybody else with my stupidity.
01-03-2007, 06:49 PM
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Tires
A lot of good info here. There's a reason they put E rated stock now, but that is probably CYA(advice of lawyers).
Most people don't run at max pressure unless they are towing. It can be a pretty rough ride. It is a pain to adjust pressures all of the time, but I do. I go max.(80 psi) when I pull my toyhauler, then down to 60 when not towing. Thinking of going down to 50. Sticker says 60 front 70 rear on 265 x 70 x 17's.
Most people don't run at max pressure unless they are towing. It can be a pretty rough ride. It is a pain to adjust pressures all of the time, but I do. I go max.(80 psi) when I pull my toyhauler, then down to 60 when not towing. Thinking of going down to 50. Sticker says 60 front 70 rear on 265 x 70 x 17's.
01-03-2007, 09:02 PM
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Hey Pop Pop, since you are the one that has broken axles and "busted"tires ,maybe you should be one asking questions and taking notes instead of giving advice. Sounds like you are the one that had a grocery getter. I've never broken axles and overloaded tires to "busting" while logging, hauling mules or backhoes, tractors etc. Maybe that's how you got your nickname POP- POP
01-03-2007, 09:06 PM
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D rated tires are oem on the power wagons same truck different engine and I bet the gross weight is not that much diff I will go by the load rating #s d e dont matter to me IF it were that big of a liability I doubt that dealers would modify trucks with them prior to sale my .02
01-03-2007, 09:11 PM
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A lot of good info here. There's a reason they put E rated stock now, but that is probably CYA(advice of lawyers).
Most people don't run at max pressure unless they are towing. It can be a pretty rough ride. It is a pain to adjust pressures all of the time, but I do. I go max.(80 psi) when I pull my toyhauler, then down to 60 when not towing. Thinking of going down to 50. Sticker says 60 front 70 rear on 265 x 70 x 17's.
Most people don't run at max pressure unless they are towing. It can be a pretty rough ride. It is a pain to adjust pressures all of the time, but I do. I go max.(80 psi) when I pull my toyhauler, then down to 60 when not towing. Thinking of going down to 50. Sticker says 60 front 70 rear on 265 x 70 x 17's.
Re, the discussion on load capacity, on my '98 2500 diesel ram, I went up one size on tire size (245 to 265) and dropped one range (E to D). Had within 50 pounds of the same load capacity at equivalent pressures. Naturally, you can't go to 80psi on a D tire. The truck sure looked better with the larger tires. Never had any problem with the D's.
01-03-2007, 09:19 PM
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I would stick with "E" rated,it is better to be over prepared then under. My moms 96 'Burban 1500 Even has "E" rated tires, anything my family has owned that is a 1/2 ton up has gotten "E" rated tires unless it called for heavier.
01-03-2007, 09:22 PM
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Hey Pop Pop, since you are the one that has broken axles and "busted"tires ,maybe you should be one asking questions and taking notes instead of giving advice. Sounds like you are the one that had a grocery getter. I've never broken axles and overloaded tires to "busting" while logging, hauling mules or backhoes, tractors etc. Maybe that's how you got your nickname POP- POP
01-03-2007, 10:33 PM
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You can get Dueler Revo and/or the Pirelli Scorpion ATR in "E" rating. Both excellent choices.....
The BFG's do look good but.....I don't know, I chose the Pirellis, and I'm happy....so far 4000 mi (knock on wood). I would stick with "E"s
The BFG's do look good but.....I don't know, I chose the Pirellis, and I'm happy....so far 4000 mi (knock on wood). I would stick with "E"s
01-03-2007, 10:57 PM
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Pop-Pop - -Seriously, sounds like you know what you are doing. I've learned a few things the hard way over the years too. My D's are rated to carry more than the
E's I replaced. That being said, If I hauled heavy every day, I would opt. for E rated. Heck, I even have 10 plys on my horse trailer. Gotta protect my beloved mules. I agree about jacked up trucks. My stock is too high for my taste, had to raise dang horse trailer, now it looks like a 4WD Horsetrailer.
E's I replaced. That being said, If I hauled heavy every day, I would opt. for E rated. Heck, I even have 10 plys on my horse trailer. Gotta protect my beloved mules. I agree about jacked up trucks. My stock is too high for my taste, had to raise dang horse trailer, now it looks like a 4WD Horsetrailer.