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305 vegashd

 

well, you can always remove just one screen if you choose. i still have adequate air in the rear (south texas too). this mod only affects how much flow you get to the front. stock, there was just to much air going to the back. it was holding so much back in the box, that is where much of the noise was coming from. if you have a dealer that is willing to do it, i wouldn't hesitate. there really isn't much to pulling the dash. anyone that has done it more than once should literally be able to pull do the whole job in 2-3 hours, maybe less. as for the temperature, there is a fix for that as well. much easier (1 hour). it involves installing a couple of ball valves to cut the flow of coolant to the heater core. my ford had the valve from the factory. don't know why dodge won't do it. easy, and it'll drop your a/c temp a bunch. mine was so bad that in the heat of summer (100*+ days) i could still sweat with the air on high and recirc. i put the valves in first, and was able to run the a/c on 2nd or 3rd speed and be comfortable. then i did the screens. now i can run the a/c on 1st speed after i about 5 minutes of cooling the cab down. i am totally comfortable now and happy the a/c is working the way it should have from the factory.

 

Wow, great info here. I will print this out and take it in to my GOOD dealer. That was my main complaint about the temp not getting cold enough. On High Recirc it was getting warm as I waited to pick up the kids from school. By time they drag there feet out to the truck I was getting hot in there again. Thanks again for the info.

 

there is no tsb on the for the heater core mod. only the screen removal. as i said, my dealer would only do the screens if something else was wrong and they had to remove the dash anyway. so i did it myself. you may have better luck. as for the ball valves, they won't do that one. while my diesel tech said "wow, great idea" they wouldn't do it. all hardware can be had from lowes or home depot for about $30. if you can cut, rubber hose and turn a screw driver the mod will take about 1 hour taking your time. what you'll do is turn the coolant off from going through the heater core. SO, when the vlave is closed you only have super cold air with the a/c on or turn off a/c. you get zero heat when the valve is closed. then when the temps start dropping in your area below maybe 85*-90* on a regular basis, open the valve back up for the winter so you have full control of the heater. takes me about 25 seconds to open or close the valve incuding popping the hood.

 

That might explain why my 2008 Mega cab is missing the rear vents?
I guess that was Dodges fix?
We'll see how hot it gets in the back when we head for AZ in 2 weeks.
The front is always plenty cold.

Thanks
SFB

 

Interesting mod!

Isn't there already a stock valve that cuts-off coolant flow when the heater is off though?

 

no, no stock valve. i guess dodge wanted to save the extra $10 or so that it would cost them to put one in at the factory. like i said, my '05 ford has one. it shuts the coolant off when the a/c is in recirc. it's vacuum operated. of course the new trucks are vacuum operated, so an electric valve would be needed. i still would have paid the extra to have it from the factory and work only in a/c recirc.

 

I think I'm gonna give this a try. Thanks for the info.

Have you had any issues with the A/C freezing up on you?

 

never had it freeze up. with the mods i've done it just works great for our south texas summers now. there is still enough air getting to my daughter in the back seat too. i got sat back there one day to see how it was, and was cool the whole time.

 

Ya, I'm going to do it too. Sounds easy.

 

hey guys, whats size difference on the front differentials of a 2500 vs 3500?? just trying to win one of those useless arguments that started at work yesterday. thanks.

 

No differences.

 

Beat me too it. He's correct there are no differences in the 2500 and 3500 diff.

 

thats what i thought, he said he fills his diff to 1/4"... i have always filled to 3/4" below the hole... tamato, tomoto...

 

I fill mine all the way up till it starts running back out of the hole. The more lubricant you can fit in there, the better IMO. I been doing it like this for years. Why else would the aftermarket fancy covers hold an extra quart?