Chevy and Dodge have same rear end, why does Dodge paint flake off?
#17
Funny, I just got an 08 4door Jeep wrangler. The thing just now has 1100 miles on the ticker and the dam reardiff. is flaking and rusting off too! I am gonna wear the crap out of this bumper to bumper and powertrain warranty. Dont know if that should be covered, but I don't care. It's just the schittz when it's only got 1.1k! Piddly cracka.
#19
My axle had some surface rust on it that I wanted to get rid of. After I wire brushed my axle I used some rust converter (turns rust into a hard black coating) then sprayed a rattle can industrial black paint over it. looks good. We don't get salt on our roads, if you do you might want to try some Rust bullet as a base coat heard it is good stuff on frames and chassis parts. Drive shaft was worse so I did the same with that.
#21
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Just take a few minutes when you are waxing the truck and shoot the frame and axles with some semi-gloss Rustoleum. Then take the wax off. No overspray issues that way. Why on earth would you bother to take the truck to the dealer for a do-it-youself touch-up? It would take longer for the Service Advisor to write a Repair Order than it takes to spray it yourself.
#22
I'd bet the quality of paint does have something to do with it, but I's also bet the break-in fluid has MORE to do with it in cases where people do more towing and actually work the truck's diffs harder.
I can go on to say that I KNOW it has to do with the break-in fluid BECAUSE I sent in an oil analysis when I changed out my diff fluids. The results of the analysis suggested that the visconsity of the stock fluids was VERY LOW, operating temps broke it down VERY quickly.
I bet the oil you find in a can of sardines would hold up better than the factory break-in fluids. For those who tow, the 15K factory recommended interval for changing out the diff fluids is too long a period to wait to change it out.
CD
I can go on to say that I KNOW it has to do with the break-in fluid BECAUSE I sent in an oil analysis when I changed out my diff fluids. The results of the analysis suggested that the visconsity of the stock fluids was VERY LOW, operating temps broke it down VERY quickly.
I bet the oil you find in a can of sardines would hold up better than the factory break-in fluids. For those who tow, the 15K factory recommended interval for changing out the diff fluids is too long a period to wait to change it out.
CD
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Since were on the topic of rearends and fluid I think this question will fit in here.
When draining the rear diff fluid and switching to a different brand( I have Red Line in now and I want to switch to Amsoil), is it ok to use a can of brake cleaner or some other kind of cleaner to get all of the old fluid out? Or would that be bad to have some brake cleaner in the diff mixed in w/ the new oil?
And my truck has 85k on the ticker and my cover still looks great. It has only seen 2 years of winter though. Give it a couple more years and im sure it will be in bad shape.
When draining the rear diff fluid and switching to a different brand( I have Red Line in now and I want to switch to Amsoil), is it ok to use a can of brake cleaner or some other kind of cleaner to get all of the old fluid out? Or would that be bad to have some brake cleaner in the diff mixed in w/ the new oil?
And my truck has 85k on the ticker and my cover still looks great. It has only seen 2 years of winter though. Give it a couple more years and im sure it will be in bad shape.
#25
Since were on the topic of rearends and fluid I think this question will fit in here.
When draining the rear diff fluid and switching to a different brand( I have Red Line in now and I want to switch to Amsoil), is it ok to use a can of brake cleaner or some other kind of cleaner to get all of the old fluid out? Or would that be bad to have some brake cleaner in the diff mixed in w/ the new oil?
And my truck has 85k on the ticker and my cover still looks great. It has only seen 2 years of winter though. Give it a couple more years and im sure it will be in bad shape.
When draining the rear diff fluid and switching to a different brand( I have Red Line in now and I want to switch to Amsoil), is it ok to use a can of brake cleaner or some other kind of cleaner to get all of the old fluid out? Or would that be bad to have some brake cleaner in the diff mixed in w/ the new oil?
And my truck has 85k on the ticker and my cover still looks great. It has only seen 2 years of winter though. Give it a couple more years and im sure it will be in bad shape.
As a disclaimer: I recommend to EVERYBODY out there with less than 15K and more than 5K on their trucks, go ahead and change the stock differential fluids out...had I known it was going to look like it did, I would have never let it go that long without putting some good stuff in.
#26
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What kind of a grease cleaning spray did you use? I got the truck w/ 50k on it so I don't know how many times it was changed or what fluid was used. I know when I changed it for the first time it did not look bad at all. I only have about 20k miles or so on the rear diff oil now, maybe not time for a change just yet but a little earlier is better then a little later.
#27
What kind of a grease cleaning spray did you use? I got the truck w/ 50k on it so I don't know how many times it was changed or what fluid was used. I know when I changed it for the first time it did not look bad at all. I only have about 20k miles or so on the rear diff oil now, maybe not time for a change just yet but a little earlier is better then a little later.
#28
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OK we know the Chevy and the Dodge have the same 11.5 AAM rear end behind each of the diesels. Why is it my Chevy's rear end paint is still perfect while the less than a year old Dodge's rear end is all rusted looking. Im suspencting Dodge uses very cheap paint to paint it while the Chevys was much better.
WHY!!!!!!!!!????????
WHY!!!!!!!!!????????
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