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boring out h2 rims

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Old 04-24-2007, 06:32 PM
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boring out h2 rims

I just got my h2 rims and need to know the best way to bore out the center of the rim to fit. Actually i need to know how much to bore them out, whether or not i should do it at my house or have a machine shop do it, and do i need to do all 4 rims or just the 2 or the back because thats what i heard? I have tried searching on here fro answers to my wuestions but i just cant seem to find the right thread. Your help is appreciated Thanks in advance
Old 04-24-2007, 06:49 PM
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I had a machinist bore mine out to 4.778". He did all 4 wheels for $80. Do all of them so you don't have any problems when it comes time to rotate your tires.
Old 04-24-2007, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ptgarcia
I had a machinist bore mine out to 4.778". He did all 4 wheels for $80. Do all of them so you don't have any problems when it comes time to rotate your tires.
Yup, same here.
Old 04-24-2007, 10:55 PM
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Did mine in the garage with an angle grinder and have had them on for 4 months with no problems what so ever, I did all 4 so I could rotate them with out any problem.
JW
Old 04-24-2007, 11:10 PM
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Had mine machined on a lathe out to 4.774 . Defineately have all 4 done so you can rotate. I even picked up a spare with a 315/70r17 BFG on it and had it done also so I would have a full size spare. The cool thing is that it fits perfectly where the stock spare goes.
Old 04-25-2007, 01:11 AM
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What are the height and width of the H2 wheels
Old 04-25-2007, 02:22 AM
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I used the rotor method. Super easy. All you need is a rotor and finishing bit. You set the bit depth so it just catch's the front of the lip from the back of the rim. Then have at here. It worked perfect on mine. I forgot to take pics before I dropped them of at the powerder coaters, but can take some when I get them back.
Old 04-25-2007, 09:43 AM
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I had mine milled out to about 4.78 ish and they are fine..

I stay away from the manual methods of opening the hole, as when the tires are replaced and ballanced, theres not a true surface for the machine to center on..

Old 04-25-2007, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by THURENfab.
I had mine milled out to about 4.78 ish and they are fine..

I stay away from the manual methods of opening the hole, as when the tires are replaced and ballanced, theres not a true surface for the machine to center on..

Here we go again


The balancing does not depend on the center hole. The centering tool for balancing rides on the taper that leads into the center hole. H2s balance normally with any method used to open up the center hole. Just leave some of the taper and you are fine.
Old 04-25-2007, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wetspirit
Here we go again


The balancing does not depend on the center hole. The centering tool for balancing rides on the taper that leads into the center hole. H2s balance normally with any method used to open up the center hole. Just leave some of the taper and you are fine.
Does the balancer use a cone shaped dealio that holds the wheel to the machine? If so, and this cone protrudes into the center hole, even the slightest bit, that center hole will have to be of constant radius to properly center the wheel.
Old 04-25-2007, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Wetspirit
Here we go again


WET,

Isn't this a fun topic............................................. ...



JTJR77,

See my sig for FULL instructions
Old 04-25-2007, 11:09 AM
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The H2s have a center hole with a tapered entry on the back side. The balancing cone sits against this tapered surface. When the wheels are opened up some of this taper is removed but not all of it. Even if the center hole is crudely opened up, and left out of round, it has no affect on the contact between the cone and the machined centering taper on the wheel. The wheel is supported and centered on the balancer by the cone against the taper. Not the center hole.

I've had two sets of tires on my H2s and had them balanced at least three times as they wore. And at different shops. Never has there been a problem or a negative comment. I've got almost 100,000 miles on them now, and that's towing heavy loads in the mountains, four wheeling, high speed highway cruising, etc. These wheels will be on my truck as long as I have it, as they run perfectly smooth on the highway and just seem to fit the truck better than the stock ones.

For some reason this subject always seems so controversial. So the best approach is to make up your own minds. If you don't like the idea don't do it. H2s are a very good and cheap way to get better wheels than Dodge offered. And you can always get a replacement one if you need to. These just seem to be the proper size for the Dodges.

Professionally machining the wheels is a great way to go, and best for the guys not comfortable with power tools, but it's not necessary. The router, the hole saw, the die grinder, or even a big file will net the same results. The simpler methods can be done at home in a few minutes with a little care and tools that many of us have at hand.

Wetspirit
Old 04-25-2007, 11:22 AM
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Just remember to tell whoever is balancing your tires to cone it from the backside then. I work at Tires Plus, and it is standard practice to cone aluminum wheels from the outside, to avoid scuffing the finish when you screw the handle on. I don't have any experience with H2 wheels, but thought I might throw this out there.
Old 04-25-2007, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Wetspirit
Here we go again

Just leave some of the taper and you are fine.
Agreed..

Try and run a hole saw or an "angle grinder" through there w/o screwing up that thin little taper...
Old 04-25-2007, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wetspirit
Here we go again


The balancing does not depend on the center hole. The centering tool for balancing rides on the taper that leads into the center hole. H2s balance normally with any method used to open up the center hole. Just leave some of the taper and you are fine.
After thinking about it some more, you're right. As long as there aren't any imperfections on the side of the mounting flange large enough to interfere with the balancing cone the center hole need not be perfectly round. But the taper on the wheel must remain for this to be true. Without the taper, the center hole must be perfectly round.


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