Better AC Tip
#31
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I was under the impression that any custom blending was illegal. I am not sure of this, but I sell all the types of refrigerants, and all the guys who work on them say, "I could make your home unit put ice cicles on the couch, but if anyone found out you would be fined very heavily"
#32
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Originally Posted by Dodgezilla
Well, I'm having an issue with mine that the dealer can't seem to fix. It works fine till the outside temp gets into the very low 80 degree range. Then it will work for about 20 minutes and then start blowing warm air. If I turn it off for a couple minutes and turn it back on it will blow cold again for a couple minutes and then back to warm. Sometimes when I pop the hood while the condition exists the lines are hot to the touch and sometimes the line into the firewall is frozen. Also, when the condition exists, the compressor clicks on and off every couple of seconds. Of course each time I have made an appointment the temps have been in the 70s and it cools just fine!!
The system has been evacuated and refilled and some switch was replaced. All to the tune of about $400.00 and it's still no better than before. They are thinking that they may have to pull the whole dash out and check everything under there.
Anybody have any ideas??? I'm tired of being hot!!!!
The system has been evacuated and refilled and some switch was replaced. All to the tune of about $400.00 and it's still no better than before. They are thinking that they may have to pull the whole dash out and check everything under there.
Anybody have any ideas??? I'm tired of being hot!!!!
maybe a clogged condensor in (front of radiator).
could be a slow leak and a low charge, in which the low pressure switch is cycling the compressor on and off.
check for intake blower fan restrictions (clogged cabin filter)
sounds like evaporator is freezing up, then no air flow over evap, cause could be anything.
you should be able to tell what is going on with a set of guages. borrow a set from a friend of something and chech it yourself. or go buy a cheap set at a local refrigeration shop.
also it could be a restricted orfice/expansion valve. which ever one you have. if it is a expansion valve they would have to tear dash out and replaced it. if it a orfice it is usually around the condensor or accumlilator under hood (easy to replace).
last but not least, they could be idiots.
hope this helps
#33
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Originally Posted by dale29
If you run your A/C on "fresh air" instead of recirc for the last 3 to 5 minutes that you are driving, it will dry out the evaporator(I have been told, and it has worked so far) and you will not develop the mold/smell. I usually switch it to "fresh; every hour or 2 for a couple of minutes while on the road for the same affect.
Sorry, I don't know what to do once the funk gets in there.
Good luck with that, let us know if you find a solution.
dale
Sorry, I don't know what to do once the funk gets in there.
Good luck with that, let us know if you find a solution.
dale
you can turn the ac off too. let the fans blow.
#34
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On the highway towing I can't run my AC on high becasue it gets TOOOOOO darn cold, no matter what the temp is outside. I think they put an Aircraft Carrier AC unit in mine
#35
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Thanks Shanevrr. I have a guage and as I said sometimes it shows super high pressure and sometimes it shows no pressure at all. Condenser area is very clean and fan works great. I had a piece of screen over the condenser to keep the bugs off but I have even removed that to eliminate it as a cause. They put the dye in to see if the system was leaking and they find no trace of it. Apparently system is fully charged. Yesterday driving t work the temp was about 74 degrees. The A/C blew so cold I had to turn it off! Coming home it was 89 degrees and it worked for about 20 minutes and that was it. I just would hate to spend another $500.00 to have the dash ripped out and they still can't fix it!
When it is working, the whole system under the hood sweats a lot. It seems every line and the canister is sweating profusely..
When it is working, the whole system under the hood sweats a lot. It seems every line and the canister is sweating profusely..
#36
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Originally Posted by Dodgezilla
Thanks Shanevrr. I have a guage and as I said sometimes it shows super high pressure and sometimes it shows no pressure at all. Condenser area is very clean and fan works great. I had a piece of screen over the condenser to keep the bugs off but I have even removed that to eliminate it as a cause. They put the dye in to see if the system was leaking and they find no trace of it. Apparently system is fully charged. Yesterday driving t work the temp was about 74 degrees. The A/C blew so cold I had to turn it off! Coming home it was 89 degrees and it worked for about 20 minutes and that was it. I just would hate to spend another $500.00 to have the dash ripped out and they still can't fix it!
When it is working, the whole system under the hood sweats a lot. It seems every line and the canister is sweating profusely..
When it is working, the whole system under the hood sweats a lot. It seems every line and the canister is sweating profusely..
but normaly they ether work or they dont, not an intermittingly thing.
maybe compressor, but if your getting high head pressure your compressor is good.
what do mean by no pressure at all? low or high. what are the pressures?
if you do have a leak at the evaperator you will not know unless tear the dash out and look. evaporators usually dont leak just the expansion valve flare conections.
you can also evacuate the system and measure the amount of freon you take out. you may lose an ounce or two in the process, not a biggy.
the suction line gets really cold and sweats which is normal. it is the big line going to compressor and the can looking thing which is a accumilator.
find out if you have a expansion valve or an orfice system for me. that will help me decide what is going on.
a cooling system requires less freon to cool when the temp is lower outside verses high temps, in which it will probably work just fine when the temp outside is lower. maybe thats why it works when 70 couple and not at 90 degree. that indicates a low charge. ask them to charge by pressure not freon weight. then look to see how much went in.
get as much info as you can and i will help trouble shoot.
#38
Perceived Misinformation Warning (imho)
Originally Posted by Shanevrr
that is what it is for
give me a web site or something showing where it is illegal. it is advertised for AUTOMOTIVE ˇ COMMERCIAL ˇ INDUSTRIAL . if it was illegal how could they say that.
check out the web site http://www.maxifrig.com/
give me a web site or something showing where it is illegal. it is advertised for AUTOMOTIVE ˇ COMMERCIAL ˇ INDUSTRIAL . if it was illegal how could they say that.
check out the web site http://www.maxifrig.com/
check this one....http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html
Furthermore,
I am not the first person to run to the gov or the EPA for guidance but this is a matter of sketchy deception and a bit of an end run around a grey area law (clean air act). Weather it makes sense to use butane/propane in your a/c system is a personal decision. The Govt says...
"May hydrocarbon refrigerants be used to replace CFC-12, commonly referred to as "FreonŽ ," in cars?
No. It is illegal to use hydrocarbon refrigerants like HC-12aŽ and DURACOOL 12aŽ as substitutes for CFC-12 in automobile or truck air conditioning under any circumstances." This was exerpted from the EPA/SNAP (significant new alternatives policy) website.
FYI Maxi-frig is just another name for this HC-12a substance.
SECOND....This forum can be a valuable source of information. HOWEVER... Let me caution everyone by saying, just cause you read it here does not make it so!!
THIRD.....Rumors and urban legends can be fun.. but should not used as points of fact (IMHO).
It would be my advice to all, to know the pedigree of the information source you choose to follow.
#39
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Originally Posted by dale29
FIRST... the website you reference here (maxi-frig) is right up there with the auto cool, the tornado, and the latest fat burning pill.
check this one....http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html
Furthermore,
I am not the first person to run to the gov or the EPA for guidance but this is a matter of sketchy deception and a bit of an end run around a grey area law (clean air act). Weather it makes sense to use butane/propane in your a/c system is a personal decision. The Govt says...
"May hydrocarbon refrigerants be used to replace CFC-12, commonly referred to as "FreonŽ ," in cars?
No. It is illegal to use hydrocarbon refrigerants like HC-12aŽ and DURACOOL 12aŽ as substitutes for CFC-12 in automobile or truck air conditioning under any circumstances." This was exerpted from the EPA/SNAP (significant new alternatives policy) website.
FYI Maxi-frig is just another name for this HC-12a substance.
SECOND....This forum can be a valuable source of information. HOWEVER... Let me caution everyone by saying, just cause you read it here does not make it so!!
THIRD.....Rumors and urban legends can be fun.. but should not used as points of fact (IMHO).
It would be my advice to all, to know the pedigree of the information source you choose to follow.
as you recall i just heard about it, not saying that i know anything about it personally or that i use it. as you read i use hotshot which is legal for autos.
the reason it is not approved is because of the time limit and government hoops (BS) you have to go through to get it approved. it may not be cost effective to do so also, at a 1.99 a bottle. for the government its all about the taxes and money they can get by regulating anything they can. like you say it is a personal choice. i dont think we need the government making all of our decisions for us.
personally i think i would be more worried about the gallons of gas in my truck rather than a couple of pounds of flammable freon. weight comparison of gas is anywhere from 120lbs to 280, go figure.
if i were to make a decision based on there (maxi-frig) specs and pressure/temp chart i would definitly use the maxi-frig in my vehical if i had to, especially to save hundreds of dallors. the only way you can do it, is to do it your self.
i dont think you have to tell everyone they need to think for themselfs. the info provided is strickly opinions and experiences maybe some facts. it is up to the reader to desifer and choose the best information or facts and what to do with it.
thanks for the info though.
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