dale29

If you run your A/C on "fresh air" instead of recirc for the last 3 to 5 minutes that you are driving, it will dry out the evaporator(I have been told, and it has worked so far) and you will not develop the mold/smell. I usually switch it to "fresh; every hour or 2 for a couple of minutes while on the road for the same affect.

Sorry, I don't know what to do once the funk gets in there.
Good luck with that, let us know if you find a solution.


dale

DarkPaladin

What's the name of the spray, and where do you get it from??

Ace

It will help you pay a big fine to the FHTSA if you get caught, because it is illegal to use in motor vehicles.

P.J

Mopar 04897625AA Cleaner, Aerosol Evaporator

Heres a link that talks about the issue on Jeeps.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/hvac_clean.htm

Shanevrr

that is what it is for

give me a web site or something showing where it is illegal. it is advertised for AUTOMOTIVE · COMMERCIAL · INDUSTRIAL . if it was illegal how could they say that.

check out the web site http://www.maxifrig.com/

sled4fun

On the topic of diferent refrigerants that will work in a vehicle. Keep a couple of things in mind. My experience with these refrigerants is nil. Our shop and none of our 25+ year experienced techs have used or are familiar with these blends. Why not you ask? Well because they are all blend type refrigerants that were not originally equipped in vehcles by the factory. And if we use one of these many blend refrigerants and our customer has some type of problem miles away from us, who is going to look at it for him? Only a shop that is familiar with That particular blend refrigerant can. I can't tell you how many times someone has been driving through Sacramento with an A/C problem needing help. They come in and the first things our techs are going to do is identify what type of refrigerant it has in it. OK brand XYZ and not R12 or R134a so what happens next. WE CALL IT A CONTAMINATED SYSTEM! Why, because we do not have any equipment dedicated to that particular brand of refrigerant. If we did we mind as well buy 24+ machines to handle each blend refrigerant out there. Some of these refrigerants are flammable and may explode during a front end impact (where the condenser is remember) I think that if you do your own A/C work, run a fleet shop where you are the only one that maintains them it could be ok. Other than the fact that most new A/C parts you buy may not cover the part if something other than R12 or R134a is used (check with your supplier on this one first) Each type of refrigerant out their (including R12 & R134a) needs to have a dedicated set of service ports installed onto the factory service ports so that a different refrigerant cannot be introduced into the system. Ya right! We see about a car or two a day with a refrigerant cocktail blend of 30% R12 and 70% R134a mix. Change the percentages, but the result is the same. Poor cooling and a CONTAMINATED SYSTEM. These mixture are usually seen when a car was purchased from a smiling used car lot or private car rebuilder that takes three or four totaled cars and makes one out of them. You know the guys there last name ends in "ski" Sorry did not mean to affend any used car dealers.

As for an evaporator cleaner. We use a product called DWD2. It has a small plastic spray nozzle that you install in the evap. case and an aerosol can in nonscented and scented flavor. It works great and once the nozzle is installed you just cap it off and use it over and over again.

As for the Pag oil used. I know that we sell retail a Pag oil that sells for $2 an ounce. Most systems use anywhere from 4-9oz. We have never used the $50 / 8oz type. But maybe we should change our prices if their are buyers

gerry

On my Durango there was a TSB about cooling. It said to crack the rear windows for better ari flow and to help flow out the hot air.

I have tried this on this truck and it seems to work well.. just 1/2" or so until the cab cools off.

Gerry

Joe T

I run my AC on fresh air to keep the funk away.

Also, I spray lysol into the fresh air intake with the fresh air setting on and run it every once in a while...

Shanevrr

[QUOTE=sled4fun]On the topic of diferent refrigerants that will work in a vehicle. Keep a couple of things in mind. My experience with these refrigerants is nil. Our shop and none of our 25+ year experienced techs have used or are familiar with these blends. Why not you ask? Well because they are all blend type refrigerants that were not originally equipped in vehcles by the factory. And if we use one of these many blend refrigerants and our customer has some type of problem miles away from us, who is going to look at it for him? Only a shop that is familiar with That particular blend refrigerant can. I can't tell you how many times someone has been driving through Sacramento with an A/C problem needing help. They come in and the first things our techs are going to do is identify what type of refrigerant it has in it. OK brand XYZ and not R12 or R134a so what happens next. WE CALL IT A CONTAMINATED SYSTEM! Why, because we do not have any equipment dedicated to that particular brand of refrigerant. If we did we mind as well buy 24+ machines to handle each blend refrigerant out there. Some of these refrigerants are flammable and may explode during a front end impact (where the condenser is remember) I think that if you do your own A/C work, run a fleet shop where you are the only one that maintains them it could be ok. Other than the fact that most new A/C parts you buy may not cover the part if something other than R12 or R134a is used (check with your supplier on this one first) Each type of refrigerant out their (including R12 & R134a) needs to have a dedicated set of service ports installed onto the factory service ports so that a different refrigerant cannot be introduced into the system. Ya right! We see about a car or two a day with a refrigerant cocktail blend of 30% R12 and 70% R134a mix. Change the percentages, but the result is the same. Poor cooling and a CONTAMINATED SYSTEM. These mixture are usually seen when a car was purchased from a smiling used car lot or private car rebuilder that takes three or four totaled cars and makes one out of them. You know the guys there last name ends in "ski" Sorry did not mean to affend any used car dealers.



what piece of equipment do you use to identify the types of freon?

FYI i use about 8 differant kinds of freon on my job and can do any job on site with just the equipment i have on my pickup. why do you need 25 machines?

inventory

8 bottles of freon 134,409,404,414,hp80,hp81,22,mp39
1 recover tank
1 nitrogen tank
1 recover/pump machine
1 guages
1 scale
dye
black light

i dont think a couple of pounds of refrigerant will explode. it needs to mixed with air to ignite. cant explode in the system. you may see some flames though for a short period.

if you have a contaminated system why cant you just flush it, change oil in compressor, replace accumilator or reciever/dryer and recharge. i do it all the time.

DMH

Coming home from work today, outside temps in the mid 80's, I tried the recirc. trick. I ran about half way home using the fresh air, then switched over to the recirculate. The probe thermometer I have stuck in one of the vents did not change between the two. Both ways showed 42 degrees. Driving conditions were also comparable.

I do have to admit, though, I did feel a little cooler when on the recirc. I also notice that the fan speed seemed to speed up. I am attributing that to the fact that the fan did not have to try to force "outside" air into the sealed cab.

Just my $.03 worth.

DMH

Shanevrr

it probably will not change evap temp, just how quick it cools the same volume of air inside cab. and yes fan will run faster on recuirc because it is not pulling through a filter. 80deg is not to hot to get a big differance. try on 90 to 100 day.

sled4fun

In this great state of California we have to have a dedicated piece of equipment (machine & tank) for each and every type of refrigerent we service. Our shop only services two (R12 & R134a). And we have one piece of equipment for any contaminated refrigerant (all others). Venting is never allowed per our Air Resource Board. When a vehicle comes in with anything other than R12 or R134a and if the customer authorizes us to proceed with repairs, we recover it ($150.00 fee), flush it, fix it and charge it. And we do a lot of it as we are one of if not the biggest A/C shop in Northern California

hubmonkey

Or my Old 1996 F150... That thing would make you cut holes in your shirt after 5 minutes of being on high. Even had comments from friends that ride in it in the 100 Degree Oklahoma heat telling me to turn that thing down.

Hub

Dodgezilla

Well, I'm having an issue with mine that the dealer can't seem to fix. It works fine till the outside temp gets into the very low 80 degree range. Then it will work for about 20 minutes and then start blowing warm air. If I turn it off for a couple minutes and turn it back on it will blow cold again for a couple minutes and then back to warm. Sometimes when I pop the hood while the condition exists the lines are hot to the touch and sometimes the line into the firewall is frozen. Also, when the condition exists, the compressor clicks on and off every couple of seconds. Of course each time I have made an appointment the temps have been in the 70s and it cools just fine!!
The system has been evacuated and refilled and some switch was replaced. All to the tune of about $400.00 and it's still no better than before. They are thinking that they may have to pull the whole dash out and check everything under there.
Anybody have any ideas??? I'm tired of being hot!!!!

triplenickle

My concern is the fact that I have to keep the blower motor on full blast just to keep any air moving. My 98 was the same way. Unfortunate DC hasen't picked this up yet.