Shanevrr

you guys may know this.

you should always put your vents on recirculate when on AC. instead of cooling the hot outside air, your recooling inside air and it will cool faster and is far more effecient. better mileage too.

also get your windows tented to the maximum by your state law

Oval Racer

I'll tell you what worked for me..

I was disapointed in the AC in my 06 QC. In my 02 F150, I would close all vents but driver and the air output would go way up on driver side. It would blow hard. The same technique does not work on my dodge. When I close the passenger vents, the air on the driver side goes up, but not that much. So, I leave all the vents open and the total cold air blowing in the cab is greater and the truck cools much better. I was just driving in 104 degree temps and I had to turn it down.. I was pretty happy about that.

4x4not

One thing I noticed about mine is that it takes a while to cool down. The Ford Escorts I drove in college (a 97 and a 98) would cool almost instantly. With the Dodge, it seems to take the better part of 5 minutes to get cold. Once it is cold though, it works great.

Ramstang

better mileage running recirc. air? Hmm, ill have to try that more often.

goose2

Two things that I know, #1= A ford escort is smaller than a dodge truck (less area to cool). #2= the cooling agent they use in the newer vehicles does not cool as good as the old freon.

sled4fun

Here are some more A/C tips:

*To cool the cab faster)

Use a sunshade on the front window to keep the sun from superheating all the plastic dash pieces that take so long to cool down and crack windows open so cab won't superheat. Also run A/C in fresh air mode with windows still cracked open for first few blocks when getting into a hot cab. This allows for cooler outside air to purge the superheated air out of the cab. Switch to recirculation mode after a few blocks or so. Don't expect any mileage improvements though.

*To decrease your chance of getting that gym, sock smell from your vents)

During the last 1/2 mile or so from getting to your last stop of the day. Crack your windows, put your mode selector to fresh air and turn off your A/C button, but keep your fan on high. What this does is dry out the fins of your evaporator core to minimize the chance of mold and mildew forming in your evaporator case. Also if your truck is parked in the garage roll your windows down a little. These newer vehicles are built so tight they don't breath enough and like a tight house it can create an environment for mold and mildew.

*To increase A/C performance)

Keep bugs and debris off your condenser (the finned unit in front of your radiator just behind the grill) Check for excessive bending of fins from road debris. DO NOT USE A FINE MESH SCREEN for protection....bad airflow issues!

*To stay away from the A/C repair shop)

Keep kids from using the dash as a storage spot for toys, batteries, pencils, pens etc. They fall into the vents and cost $$$ to fix what they mess up. Don't be afraid to turn your A/C on in the winter. It helps to circulate the refrigerant (which circulates the oil in the system) an keeps things lubed up well. Don't let anyone put dye into your A/C system to find a leak. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen a vehicle come into our shop that has had every shop in town (except us) trying to find a leak on it and each added their own qty. of dye. A system with too much dye will not function properly and will also degrade the lubricating ability of the Pag oil in the system. JUST SAY NO TO DYE! If the shop can't find the leak with a good leak detection sniffer & a bottle of soapy water....find a better A/C shop. It is not that hard if you know what you are doing.

Hope these tips help you

sawood

Thanks sled4fun on your AC advice. i hate that gym sock smell - is it easy to change out that filter or hatever it is that cause the stink?
Thanks, Steve

Shanevrr

i do know there is new colder freon out there that some people are using for R12 conversions but it is flammable. it is comparible to the R12 freon that was so cold. and it can be put into a 134A or a R12 system. compatible with all oils.

i will try and find the name of it and let you guys know.

dale29

Whats up with this MYTH that r134 is not as "cold" as r12???
Anyone who believes this has not been in my suburban.

DmaxEter

I personally have maid the R134A converted systems blow up 10deg colder than when they had R12 in them. You must change the condenser in most cases.
I love 134 ac systems cause they are easier to service now with the lack of any other refrigerants.

sled4fun

I hear ya Dmaxeter. R134a will operate really good if you do a proper conversion. For those people thinking of converting an old vehicle keep in mind that R134a has a smaller molecule than R12. So anything that has a small leak with R12 will you know it...leak more with R134a.

Installing an upgraded R134a condenser and maybe a fan clutch or fan upgrade on some Rv's does wonders. We have some Limo and Handicap School buses that we have put dual condensers & fans on because of their low speed/idling operation and they work great!

As for how hard is it to change our cabin filters in our trucks. I don't know as I have not done mine yet. I guess I assume it does have one though.

Shanevrr

the name of the freon is maxi-frig. it has the same head pressure effeciency at the condensor as R12. which is why it does not require any conversions.

R12 had better supercooling properties at higher temps. thats why it was cooler at higher temps. depending of what part the country you live in, you would see the biggest differance. in moderate temps you would not see much of a differance.

the reason for it is so you dont have to change oil, condensor or add anything. to convert a R12 system to 134a is very time consuming and costly if done properly. some other dropins are 414 hot shot which seems to work well, which is what i use. 409A but it has high head pressure issues, so you cant charge 100% cap.

to convert a 3lbs to maxiffrig at cost would be about 10.00.

hope this helps

Jme

Thanx for all the advice, I just found out the other day about the recirulating issue when just by chance I turned it over. I was beginning to believe that I needed to have the air conditioner serviced. Thanx for the tips....Jamie

Buffalo

Sled4Fun & others with A/C experience.

The A/C pump died on my '03 & had to be replaced. It can, only, be purchased at the dealer, along with the proper PAG oil.

An 8.4oz. can of the Mopar Compressor Oil (R-134a, PAG Type) is $50.00 from the dealer. Converted to a gallon, that would be $761.90!!!!!

What is so special about this oil that would cause it to be this expensive? I know it's made in France. Is there a less expensive way to go or do we need to use the Mopar oil? Do you guys know of aftermarket (cheaper) compressor pumps & replacement parts to get an A/C unit running, again?

Thanks.

Joe F.(Buffalo)

P.J

They make a foam spray with a tube on it that you stick up in to the condensor drain hole. Spray it up there, let it sit for the specifed time, then run it on high for while to flush it out.
Don't know if it works, the car we were going to try it on got traded.