Boudreaux

1 year ago replaced comp,orifice line,dryer,vac, and recharged.

Put gauges on Ac last week,low on freon. Topped off getting same temps
As last year, 48* both sides 65mph on highway,in town lucky to see 58*,UN-acceptable, I,m doing the 3 valve heater core bypass today.
Ordered the Spal 16in slimline (30100401) pusher and Hayden (3647) adjustable thermal relay W/ac override.

My questions for you all who have done these mods:# 1 AC override,did you tie in ac override on comp clutch wires that come out right on top of comp or is there a better place to tie in?
#2 Radiator temp fin sensor,no way it will go in rad, going to attach to Tran cooler, what you guys think?

I'm at wits end with the ac in this truck,BTW all my blend doors are working properly. It's a 2006,5.9c, 3500, QC, slt, srw,sport package in case my sig doesn't show up. 58k miles, yes you read it right, I've been driving brand X because of this award winning AC design.

Thanks in advance....Boudreaux

jhenson

Hate to hear that you're still having A/C problems. You would think that with all new components it would work like it should. Are you positive that your blend doors are actuating fully? Have you tried the shutoff valve for the heater core? I know on mine I can easily lower my temps a good 5* by doing that. Granted after I replaced all of my A/C components I can easily see 35* at the vents on any given (hot) day. Something else has to be wrong for a new system to not work like it should. Do you have the proper charge? Your evaporator isn't plugged up with dust or dirt is it? My sons Chevy came from a ranch in Oklahoma and I removed the fan motor and placed a trash bag in the floorboard and flushed the evap with a water hose and when I say the water ran red....that's exactly what it did. I flushed a mess of red mud out of the evap drain....cools better now. Just a thought.

Spooler

Yes, tied into the compressor clutch power wire right over the compressor. I zip tied my temp probe to the top round tranny line. Works like a champ. I also ran the power to the drivers side battery.

Boudreaux

Jhenson,Thanks for the tips,I did do a complete flush last year on evap, condenser and all hoses, got a lot of stuff out of condenser and evap.Mostly oil that was in the system,really was not as bad as the red stuff that you got out, I did the flush so that I could start fresh with the correct amount of Pag 46 (6ozs). Also replaced a broken recirc door,I am positive that my blend doors are working correctly.I have sleuthed all thru out this Ac system,the heater core is adding 6* over ambient to the cab,so the 3 way bypass will help,my fan clutch is also working perfectly.
I used a heat lazer to determine when it comes on and it blows like a tornado under the hood,however when the truck is not up to temp it will not come on to help the AC.The high side ac pressures go thru the roof.
When the truck gets up to operating temp the fan clutch comes on when the high side AC gets to 310psi and drops it to 230-235. Thanks for your reply.

Boudreaux

Hello Spooler, ya helped me allot last year when I was working on this engineering marvel.

The other night I stayed up reading about 70 or so pages of heater core bypass and condenser fan install. I was up til 3am reading all that I could find,jeez some of these threads go back to 2008, anyhow thanks to all for the info.

Spooler I read where you put your fin prob on the tranny,did you adjust the temp all the way clockwise (260*). Also why did you use Derale instead of Hayden? Hayden has a replaceable 30 amp relay fuse for $15 just in case it goes south. Thanks Boudreaux

Not looking forward to sqeeeeeeezing that fan in there,I see no other alternative.

Spooler

I have it set for 160 deg. I put tie strapped the probe to the top tranny cooler line. Derale or Hayden, both will work. Derale uses a fuse and I have used it before.


Yes, this issue has been going on for a long while....

Boudreaux

Thanks ,I'll keep you updated on results.
I'm doing the 3 way heater core bypass today.
The fan and relay were ordered yesterday,Spal fan off e-bay,Hayden relay off Amazon so that will be done in a week or so when they arrive.

Hopefully I can get 39*-40* out of vents after all this grief.
It's the city stop and go traffic that kills this AC. I could live with it if I was on the Interstate all the time.

Boudreaux

pull-do

Just a suggestion, but have you thought about having the freon weight charge done instead of going by the gauges, couple of ounces can make a heck of a difference

Boudreaux

Pull-do, I have done it all with a digital scale,I am a retired structural engineer,**** as the day is long,I do not claim to know it all,because an engineer who knows it all is...well..lets leave at that.

I just finished the heater by-pass, gained 4*, still doing the condenser fan, have to, there is not enough CFM at condenser to start Ac when truck is cold,because of TIPM programing .Thanks for your response.

I welcome any and all responces to this thread,keep them coming,

Thanks Boudreaux...

Responding late cause it took me longer to finish,had to stop the bleeding
from the razor knife, more bandaids were neccesary...

For some reason this computer has no spellcheck,fix it when the ac is done

Boudreaux

Finished Heater core bypass and condenser fan (pusher) w/ relay ac override.

Highway Before Temps 48* 65mph out of pass and driver vents
Highway After Temps 37* 65mph out of pass and driver vents

City Before Temps 58* out of pass and driver vents
City After Temps 40* out of pass and driver vents

Truck will not be For sale

BTW,Those of you who wish to do the one valve heater core shutoff,
DO NOT,follow your heater core return line and you will see why.

Thanks to all of the members who helped with the info,you too Spooler

2006 3500,SLT, SRW,Sport,48re,4:10rear,No mods

steelblitzkrieg

I've learned to not turn the A/C on until I'm at least moving otherwise the passenger side is 10-20 degrees warmer than the driver side. I average 45 degrees.

When I worked in Sacramento my company vehicle was a late 80's Toyota Dually, it could be 105 degrees and I'd have a full load in the bed and that A/C would crank out 23 degrees on recirc.

Rob's Red Ram

Boudreaux,"BTW,Those of you who wish to do the one valve heater core shutoff,
DO NOT,follow your heater core return line and you will see why".Why is that for us that haven't done this mod??What's the issue ?Thank's

Spooler

Glad it is working out for you. Now I get to fix my 1975 Datsun 280zt A/C. The darn high/low switch on the dryer wires broke off.... This system still has R12 in it. Unfortunately I will have to convert if over to R134a. Just CRAP!!!!!!

Boudreaux

Rob, on my 06 the return line goes behind the block and ties in to another line and seems to make a "loop" for lack of a better word, so to me that's a clue the coolant serves another purpose. I'm not saying Do Not do the mod,I'm more comfortable with a 3 valve, 2 tee bypass where the coolant continues flowing but not thru the heater core. Hope this helps.

Boudreaux

Boudreaux

Dang Spooler,my back hurts just reading your post, Bengay cream,5 gallon bucket. I have some left over,you want I can can Fed-ex overnight.

I had that same car when I was 18yo, at that age I did not give a hoot if the AC worked or not.It was a chick magnet.

Boudreaux.....Good luck with the ZT AC