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AC performance mod

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Old 07-08-2008, 07:30 PM
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Home depot has 3/4 barbed ball valves for pex fittings. $4.30.
The barbs measure 5/8" and slid right into the 5/8 circ line. I only did the feed line and will do the return line if needed.
Old 07-08-2008, 08:32 PM
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:35 PM
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hey boom, sutherlands in town has the same 3/4" barbed ball valves that Dan K was talking about. i already did this to dad's '05 and it made a big difference. Gonna be doing my '01, my '08, and my uncle's '06 when i get the chance. Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes to do all three.
Old 07-08-2008, 08:39 PM
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10-4 i got all the parts at work cause we do this to our tractors i never would have thought about doing it to my truck....im probably gonna do it tomarrow
Old 07-09-2008, 12:04 PM
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some one definitely needs to find an electronic valve that we can wire to close only when turned to max ac/recirc. That would be the ticket.
Old 07-09-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt S
You may also be not full on the A/C charge. That was my case.
I'm having the freon charge checked today and will let you know the results.
Old 07-09-2008, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RiddlerLS1
some one definitely needs to find an electronic valve that we can wire to close only when turned to max ac/recirc. That would be the ticket.

I totally agree.

Such a valve exists. I just recently saw one somewhere before I read this thread.
On-line or in a magazine or somewhere, which of course I now cannot find.

I think it was a VintageAir unit.

Anyone know of this valve?

... Joe
Old 07-09-2008, 03:32 PM
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I went to Home Depot the other day and they don't have ball valve. Typical. Gonna try Orchard Supply Hardware today. It's supposed to be 102 today so I need all the help I can get!

Rob
Old 07-09-2008, 05:06 PM
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well, i opened up the valve on the return side last night, just to see if one valve on the intake would be sufficient. it's not. at least on the 6.7. there was quite a difference in the heat (98*) of today. i pulled over, popped the hood and closed it again, and within a minute or two had ice cold air again. i am not sure, but i think the way the bypass is setup, either coolant, or just heat from the coolant was entering the return line valve just above the turbo. anyway 2 valves on the 6.7 with the bypass is the way to go for anyone interested. i was actually running the blower motor on the second speed at 98* outside temp. never did that before this mod!
Old 07-09-2008, 06:11 PM
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I'll bet if you had an engine failure the dealer would void every warrenty and black flag your truck forever with this mod.
Old 07-09-2008, 06:47 PM
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i am sure your right about that. i was at the point that i didn't care. it's pathetic that on a $50,000 truck that can't design an a/c system that works worth a crap. my ford and toyota blow this thing away. even with the mod, it blows much colder, but the volume of air is not what it should be in a truck this size. all of the internals are working. they're looking for absolutely any excuse to void a warranty these days. as bad off as the american manufacturers are, that is just more money bleeding out their pockets. the worst is that most of the issues are due to poorly designed components and systems. can't believe DC let the a/c go unchanged for so long. and why no valve for the heater core from the factory?? my '05 superduty has one. cuts off the coolant in max a/c only. it'll ice your nipples over with the coldness it achieves combined with the sheer volume of air that it moves through the cabin.
Old 07-09-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Highway 4x4
I'll bet if you had an engine failure the dealer would void every warrenty and black flag your truck forever with this mod.
Warranty?? What warranty....

MikeyB
Old 07-09-2008, 08:02 PM
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This "mod" has been done for years. I did it on my 1966 Coronet because in the summer this car would bake you out (no A/C).

Manufacturers have to balance warranty claims against customer comfort. I assure you, if there was no benefit to having the water running through the heater core all the time, they wouldn't be doing it. So, what benefits did the factory gain that is depriving you of colder A/C?

1) Reduction in failed heater cores. With stagnant coolant, they tend to corrode faster (water, sediment, etc--as someone already mentioned).

2) Control of HVAC temps. With continuous coolant flow, you get to fine tune the temps to a degree not possible without it.

3) Increased cooling system fluid capacity. This helps with coolant life and helps the engine manage more heat. The blocked off portion of the lines essentially removes the coolant in the core and the lines from the engine's cooling system flow.



Please be careful if you do this mod. When you randomly change one element of a design, you change everything.

I would expect potential problems with iced-up evaporators, but that's just a hunch.

I empathize with you Southern boys just trying to cool off.

Fortunately, I have a 2nd gen that will ice you out on even the hottest days--bone stock

jh
Old 07-09-2008, 10:22 PM
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As long as there are no negative effects of this mod I see no problem with it. loose a little cooling bu not much. As long as the engine does not depend on the flow for anything I will probably do it. It will get rid of the heat from the heater core in the summer, under the dash. I am also going to repair the crack in my dash myself and get a dash matt of some sort to also keep the dash cool. then my blend doors will snap,,,,,,,,,,LOL.
Old 07-10-2008, 01:07 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by MikeyB
Warranty?? What warranty....

MikeyB
2 heater hoses are pretty easy to replace and have the valves on the shelf of the garage in 10 minutes


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