5th wheel hitch install, drill or clamp tubular frame?
#17
If drilling, welding or clamping on the frame had a sure winner, opinion aside, I'd bet DTR would have a forum on My hitch failed because I (BOLTED?WELDED/CLAMPED) it to the frame.
Has anybody seen a frame fold on a 2500/3500 with a bolted or welded GN/5r hitch that didn't have a Darwin award coming?
Has anybody seen a frame fold on a 2500/3500 with a bolted or welded GN/5r hitch that didn't have a Darwin award coming?
#18
Chapter President
Well, that is disappointing that a hitch installer seems to think that a 3rd gen frame wall thickness is thin....makes me wonder what his definition of thick is?? Anyone who has actually had to drill into the frame will know that it is roughly a 1/4" thick wall where the hitch would be installed - plenty thick for bolting a hitch to. I have a Reese/Drawtite 18K Signature 5ver hitch that has the under bed rails. It is bolted and not clamped. You have to fish the bolts through the frame which is a PITA but there is little doubt that it is a very stout install. The combo of a very stout truck frame, a very heavy duty under rail sub frame and 5/8" hardware certainly gives me confidence in saying the hitch mounting method is up to the task.
#19
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Well, that is disappointing that a hitch installer seems to think that a 3rd gen frame wall thickness is thin....makes me wonder what his definition of thick is?? Anyone who has actually had to drill into the frame will know that it is roughly a 1/4" thick wall where the hitch would be installed - plenty thick for bolting a hitch to. I have a Reese/Drawtite 18K Signature 5ver hitch that has the under bed rails. It is bolted and not clamped. You have to fish the bolts through the frame which is a PITA but there is little doubt that it isn't a very stout install. The combo of a very stout truck frame, a very heavy duty under rail sub frame and 5/8" hardware certainly gives me confidence in saying the hitch mounting method is up to the task.
#20
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If you were around the corner in Canada I would sell you this kit. I found it easier to install the bracket in the 2003. Plus the frame is not full of holes.
Husky is the way to go only four bolts in the rails.http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...QAdIdZ41857034
Husky is the way to go only four bolts in the rails.http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...QAdIdZ41857034
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
#22
Just a plain ole guy
I got the clamp on kit, and prefer it. I like that I can move it to the next truck if it fits or sell it if it don't and fund the next kit with the proceeds.
#23
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I got the valley clamp on kit and love it, It is very strong and took me 1.5 hours to install and it was the first one that i installed ever. Cost was $300.00 for complete kit for my 2500. I would NEVER NEVER weld on my trucks frame, drilling is not too bad but why drill when you can by the clamp on.
#25
Registered User
I've heard good things about the B&W hitches and wish I would have gone with that one. The large plate in the bed even after removing the ball with the draw-tite really stinks when trying to lay items down FLAT on the bed.
#27
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B&w
I am at the same quandry. The local RV dealer said it can be drilled per Reese and Dodge you just have to do right and the Reese engineers provided the proper procedure to ensure frame integrity. I hear the king pin clamp isn't as good on the Reese as compaired to the B&W companion. For the same price as a Reese installed by the RV dealer I could get a the B&W turn over ball and the Companion hitch for the same price and install my self. For those that have installed the B&W turn over ball, is it a PITA or is it as simple as the instructions make it out to be. Also would any one have any comparison between the Reese king pin latch vs. the companion. Thanks in advance for the help!
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well I couldn't see anyway to properly bolt on the bracket kit that came with my DSP hitch. Box said it fit '03 and up Dodges and the instructions gave measurements on where to place the rails but I couldn't see where to fish the bolts thru nor could I figure out how to hold the heads of the bolts once they were inside the frame.
So I welded the brackets to the frame. Before you get your knickers in a twist you should know that I'm a HD duty mechanic by trade and spend most of my time working on airport snowplows. This means lots of cracked/mangled/bent push frames that need to be beat back into place and welded. Welding on frames is something I'm pretty comfortable with.
Probably was quicker than drilling would have been anyway.....
So I welded the brackets to the frame. Before you get your knickers in a twist you should know that I'm a HD duty mechanic by trade and spend most of my time working on airport snowplows. This means lots of cracked/mangled/bent push frames that need to be beat back into place and welded. Welding on frames is something I'm pretty comfortable with.
Probably was quicker than drilling would have been anyway.....
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
I would like to hear from those that bolted on how it was done. Did you have a bolt with a special head on it to keep it from spinning once inside the frame? Or did you just tack weld a some scrap to the head to prevent it from turning?
#30
Registered User
On the ones I've done, I just fished the bolt through with a lockwasher under the head. The washer was enough to keep it from spinning during installation, but if the bolt needed removing after several years, it may be a chore to undo.