dtrkstan

Well I just finished my front shocks. Had to go buy some 15mm,18mm,and 19mm sockets to do it. Pass side went as you guys said, nice and easy tower came out with shock. Drivers side was a "pita". As the old top stem was soaked in PB wire brushed and the nut was coming off slowly till the top several threads then the nut locked and the socket started to slip. Had to remove the drivers side battery and then the tower and old shock came out by compressing the shock then quickly lifting it out with some wiggling. Took a vise to undo that top nut. New Bilstein went in nice. Time for a test drive. Then onto the rears. Thanks for all the help. I've noticed that most American shocks leave about 3/4 " of threaded stem so it rusts into a solid mass, the Bilsteins tighted down flush no rust area for the midwest to corrode.

MoparNut

My KYBs top nut mounted flush also. I never thought about that taking care of the rust issue. Good point.

Make sure you get the bolts tight on the rear shocks. I had a noise in the rear everytime I drove over a big crack in the parking lot at work. I sounded like something clunking. I found the right rear shock bolts were about 1/8 turn from tight. Noise is gone.

dtrkstan

Thanks ,good to know. I've got rear liners so it's a little more difficult to reach the top bolts. Looks a lot easier than the fronts.