Since I posted the above regarding a mod to shut off coolant flow to the heater core, a trick from the old days to shut off heat to the heater core in the summer, I have read at least two threads in which some apparently knowledgeable people have indicated the mod could cause excessive heat build up in the #6 cylinder area of the Cummins 5.9 head, which suffers from poor coolant flow, and that Dodge leaves the lines to the heater core open regardless of whether the heater is in use in order to counter that effect. I installed the mod, but I plan to remove it and reinstall regular heater hoses. For now I just leave the valves open.

Just didn't want anyone to end up with problems because of my uninformed post.

 

Good info.

Smitty

 

Craig,

Since you done this, is everything still working good?? How about some pictures of the install.

 

Install a bypass hose for the #6 cylinder coolant port. That's what I did with my heater shutoff setup.

MikeyB

 

Hey all,
I have this same problem, but it seems to me that no one is addressing the actual problem, or at least part of it...why is the passenger side warmer then the drivers side? arent they all fed from the same main duct? is there a door that is in the way? I am new at this, but it seems that even those who have done some of these up grades still have warmer passengers...and wifey doesn't like that!!! Any help would be great!

Thanks
Rob

 

Mine 2-fan setup on the manual is awesome. I just looked at mine again and it's hard to see anything when the radiator cross member is on. I can't post pics but I can probably describe it better, anyway. I used 1" x 1/8" strap iron to make a lower bracket for both fans to bolt onto and the fans are mounted side-by side on that strap. There's a cross member about half way down, behind the inner cooler that I tek-screwed the strap/fans to. I bent offsets in the strap, just high enough so the bolt heads that attach the fans to the strap will clear the top surface of the crossmember when the strap is screwed down to it. The strap, with the offsets, is about 1/2" total heigth and that put the top of the fans exactly flush with the top of the innercooler. I bolted the fans to the strap and prewired everything on the back of the fans and taped/wire-tied the heck out of all the wires. Then I set the fan unit down on the crossmember, got it into position and tek-screwed the strap to the crossmember with a long extension in my drill. Then I put the foam pads on the top edge of the fans and wire-tied them to the top frame of the intercooler. Then I put the radiator crossmember back in and finished the relay wiring. I used the relays that have the bypass wires thinking I would add ambient or coolant temp stats later but they haven't been necessary. If it's hot enough to need extra air flow, I already have the AC on and the fans are running. The passenger side was MUCH warmer and I didn't see any oily connectors so I'm trusting the refrigerant got pushed out the PR valve and I don't have a leak. I topped off the charge by superheat, subcooling and pressures. The inner scales on refrigerant gauges shows the saturation temp of the refrigerant and the rise in temp after the saturation point (in the evap) is superheat. The drop in temp of the liquid leaving the cond. after the saturation point is subcooling. Those temps and pressures were perfect and showed no indication of air in the system or needing a different orifice tube. I got the passenger side within 2 degrees of the driver side. I get cold air much quicker now and it works a lot better around town. I've only used the AC once this year and it still felt great. I need to check the left/right temps to make sure it's still full of refrigerant. Craig

 

I have to ask as others might be thinking about doing this, is there any ill effects in using the tie-straps that come with the fans instead of engineering mounts??

 

Well, Mine pushed the refigerent out again. Time to fill her up again. What a pain in the butt......


I just used metal straps and mounted the fan to the condensor mounting screws.

 

Spooler, your the last person I wanted to see making that statement. I think you have done everything except trade trucks to fix. Thinking about Craig's install with 2 pullers since mine is a manual. I just don't have time to do much engineering these days.

3 payments left and really don't want another plus the extra cost cause of the lousy fuel mileage with the new one's.

 

The mod works to a point. Still have to recharge about every 2 years. When it has a good charge, works like a top. I'm not buying a new truck either....LOL


Oh, Could have traded for a new truck long ago, still would have had the same problem.... I am curious to see if the 2010 trucks and above have a good A/C system. Anything up to the new design will have the same old crappy problem...

 

My heart dropped when I read this since I bought the fan and relay today and its sitting on the workbench waiting to be installed. Oh well, I am going to install them despite this and see what happens.

I had my AC system recharged last year and the tech said it was only slightly low on refrigerant which would not cause the problem of warm air from the passenger side vents. He said my blend doors were broke, I said nope just fill the system as full as you can and let’s see. With the recharge I have had cold air from both vents since last July. It appears that only a small amount of freon loss will cause this issue.

Spooler, just to be sure, you hooked the fan rely to the A/C compressor clutch switch and not the radiator fan clutch?

 

Yes, the compressor clutch power wire. You won't regret the mod. You A/C will be cold all the time until you run low again and that depends on how much you use it. I use mine every time I am in the truck.....LOL It's freaking hot....


I may have a small leak somewhere. I need to go down to an old coworkers shop and rent his A/C machine for a couple of hours and put some dye in it.

 

Today I put the fan on and got the relay hooked up. Right away I noticed the air was cold almost immediately when first turning on the AC. The AC is cold when driving on the freeway so I am hoping to create a similar effect with the fan when traveling city streets. I will drive it for a few days and see how she chills. Thanks for the info Spooler.

 

Your Welcome.... You will be turning the fan down and the temp down........LOL Something you have never done before...

 

I understand Spooler and thenries concerns, but as long a a bypass using two tee's before the valves is used I don't see the concern.

Coolant is still free flowing, its just not going through the dash.