3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

6.7 issues with delete-Need your input please

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Old 02-09-2012 | 10:25 AM
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ramruff's Avatar
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Question 6.7 issues with delete-Need your input please

About 2 weeks ago a friend of mine's 2007 6.7 3500 dually (140k miles all stock) began running like crap, no power, lots of smoke etc. overhead had see dealer now DPF full, & check engine light on. He's a excavating contractor & pulls a goose neck & tows heavy most of the time. He never had any troubles with the pollution system before, probably because he works the truck pretty hard most of the time.

I had been after him since his warranty was out to do the deletes, but he thought if it's not broke, why fix it.

Update to now:

Pulled truck in & did a complete turbo back 4" exhaust, did cali-style deletes under the hood:

Pulled EGR crossover tube & blocked it with freeze plugs, removed EGR plunger & left EGR motor plugged in, unplugged egr cooler, unplugged throttle valve connector, taped off all sensor connectors under truck, removed rubber hoses from transmission mounted pressure sensor to exhaust & looped a rubber hose from the ports on the valve to each other leaving the electrical plug on.

Hooked up smarty JR ME (just purchased from Lary @ the DTR online store 10 days ago), cleared all codes & installed the program & set the level to the towing default setting.

Everything we did is exactly the same as I did to my 2008 a year ago, except my truck had no issues when I did my deletes. My truck has been flawless since the deletes.

His truck is running in limp mode & the full message is coming on on the overhead, despite clearing the codes existing with the smarty jr prior to the initial start up after the deletes.

Turbo spools up just fine & sounds good, truck actually runs much better, but won't make full power & is a total dog pulling the trailer.

What now ?? Help please !!

(PS: We already checked the fuel & its not the issue)
Old 02-09-2012 | 11:19 AM
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Maybe the software is not the ME version on the Smarty?
Old 02-09-2012 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotty
Maybe the software is not the ME version on the Smarty?
I took the shrinkwrap off the Smarty Jr myself & it had a ME sticker on it. He's going to bring it over this weekend & we'll probably return it to stock & then reload the software & see if it helps. I'll read the version on the display & make sure when it's hooked up.
Old 02-09-2012 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ramruff
I took the shrinkwrap off the Smarty Jr myself & it had a ME sticker on it. He's going to bring it over this weekend & we'll probably return it to stock & then reload the software & see if it helps. I'll read the version on the display & make sure when it's hooked up.
Good idea to read it as it will show on the smarty hardware display what version... Sounds like you did everything correct mechanically.
Old 02-09-2012 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ramruff
Pulled truck in & did a complete turbo back 4" exhaust, did cali-style deletes under the hood:

Pulled EGR crossover tube & blocked it with freeze plugs, removed EGR plunger & left EGR motor plugged in, unplugged egr cooler, unplugged throttle valve connector, taped off all sensor connectors under truck, removed rubber hoses from transmission mounted pressure sensor to exhaust & looped a rubber hose from the ports on the valve to each other leaving the electrical plug on.
I can't find it offhand, as I recall though, MADS and H&S both say to leave these ports open, do not loop or plug......may or may not help but worth a try.
JB
Old 02-09-2012 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle B
I can't find it offhand, as I recall though, MADS and H&S both say to leave these ports open, do not loop or plug......may or may not help but worth a try.
JB
I was thinking somewhere Blake posted a picture of his with them looped together. I'm pretty sure that's how my '08 is. I did mine a year ago, so I could be wrong.

Found it here in post # 2:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t273345.html


Quote:
The sensors are not needed. The sensor harness simply need to be sealed with electrical tape and secured to the frame. The pressure sensor can be left as it is in the picture (that’s how mine has been for almost two years) or if you prefer, you can use a piece of tubing to connect the two ports together so no sediment gets inside.


His weren't capped or looped, but he said you could & I'm reasonably sure that's how I did mine.
Old 02-09-2012 | 04:26 PM
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I believe he actually left his open though, and this may have nothing to do the problem, but I do remember a vid or instruction that indicated these are pressure equalization valves and needed to be left open (or can put a small filter on them) so they could 'breath'. Just thought it'd be something to try. He may just need to run the truck down the highway so the ECM can get reoriented to the change and finish running any routines it was in the middle of when you did the deletes. One other thing I've read, if you had codes present, clear them twice before downloading.
Old 02-09-2012 | 06:12 PM
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Hey man, I just ordered full deletes for my 08, haven'tinstalled yet, i'm out of town. The tech guy I spoke to from where I ordered said those prots need to be open to the atmosphere. I can't remember the reason though. Circle B may be on the right track.
Old 02-09-2012 | 07:48 PM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
You can leave em open or looped. Wont make a difference.

Id bet my next paycheck it has the wrong programming loaded.
Old 02-09-2012 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Blake Clark
You can leave em open or looped. Wont make a difference.

Id bet my next paycheck it has the wrong programming loaded.
If it does I gotta have a talk with Lary !

I gave my bud the specs & had him order it from him.

Suppose it might have the stock 6.7 program even though it had "ME" on the outside?

We didn't start the deletes till 7:30 pm & by the time we got the new exhaust on & the other stuff taken care of it was around 11pm.

Since I'd been up since 5 am it's possible I might have missed the incorrect software version on the screen since the programming was the last thing we did.

I'll check into it Saturday afternoon when he brings it by & report back.

Thanks Guys !

Ramruff
Old 02-11-2012 | 11:39 AM
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From: Ohio
Update

Pulled truck in this morning & hooked up smarty Jr. Checked outside of box for me version sticker (it was there) & also checked software version on screen when we plugged it into the truck.

Ran codes first & got a rail pressure relief valve code ????? (Too much pressure ?)

Then cleared all codes & ran smarty to stock ( factory oem without smarty) setting.

Ran codes again & got 3 codes pertaining to the egr system which I figured we would since all the EGR stuff was unplugged/ blocked off except the EGR motor was still plugged in per smarty specs.

Deleted the 3 codes & ran smarty software back in this time to just the number 1 setting instead of the towing setting.

Truck seems to run correct now with no codes & no chimes from the overhead.

Still have the oil change required light on but that's it & after a 20 minute road test everything seems to be like it should.

How do you reset the oil change light ? Is it one of those pedal stomping routines ?

(Oil is OK by the way)

SO maybe it was just a glitch in loading the software the first time ? that caused the issue ?

Ramruff
Old 02-11-2012 | 11:07 PM
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thanks for the update. i'll make sure i double check mine week when i do my deletes and all.
Old 02-12-2012 | 05:18 AM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by ramruff
Pulled truck in this morning & hooked up smarty Jr. Checked outside of box for me version sticker (it was there) & also checked software version on screen when we plugged it into the truck.

Ran codes first & got a rail pressure relief valve code ????? (Too much pressure ?)

Then cleared all codes & ran smarty to stock ( factory oem without smarty) setting.

Ran codes again & got 3 codes pertaining to the egr system which I figured we would since all the EGR stuff was unplugged/ blocked off except the EGR motor was still plugged in per smarty specs.

Deleted the 3 codes & ran smarty software back in this time to just the number 1 setting instead of the towing setting.

Truck seems to run correct now with no codes & no chimes from the overhead.

Still have the oil change required light on but that's it & after a 20 minute road test everything seems to be like it should.

How do you reset the oil change light ? Is it one of those pedal stomping routines ?

(Oil is OK by the way)

SO maybe it was just a glitch in loading the software the first time ? that caused the issue ?

Ramruff
Good to know you got it straightened out. With so many electronics anything can go wrong with these things.

The oil change light is a pedal stomping routine. Key on, mash it three times, key off.
Old 02-13-2012 | 03:54 PM
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From: Ohio
My friend loaded down the truck & gooseneck trailer with road boring equipment & went on a pipeline job across the state this morning.

After 3 hours he called & said truck was running great and the longer he ran it the better it was.

Looks like we got it right by doing the software reload.

Thanks for the help.

Ramruff
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