Zerostart Coolant Heaters
#1
Zerostart Coolant Heaters
Hey guys - just wanted to throw around an idea about a block heater system. For a few years now, a company called tdiheater (www.frostheater.com) has been selling plug and play zerostart thermostatically controlled circulating coolant heaters for TDI's. Basically all you do is mount the thing, hook up the hoses so it's inline with your coolant system, and plug it in. It ciriculates coolant throughout the entire block, unlike our block heaters - which are just a heated probe that heat the coolant that happens to be near the probe.. I've found the factory block heater, even when plugged in all night, will not budge the coolant temp gauge or provide any sort of heat upon startup. I'm wondering is there anything specific about our coolant system that would prohibit a circulating style coolant heater? I'm just curious why more guys haven't tried this or used these, since they are way cheap, and come in 750,1000,1500, and 2000watt models. The little 4 cylinder vw's use the 1000 watt model, and supposedly it's warm pretty fast. I think 1000 or 1500 would do the trick. I think the 1000 watt model is only like 7" in length and smaller in all other areas - should be easy to mount. Anyway I was just looking for something a little simpler and cheaper than a full webasto type setup, and more effective than the factory unit. Any ideas or comments on this would be great.
#3
As I mentioned, I'm looking for a solution that's much more simple and cheap than the webasto diesel fired units. Maybe you're talking about something I haven' t seen? I'm looking at webasto's website and it's a pretty pathetic site. They redirect you toward their 'blueheat' site and don't really give too many specifics about the kit - and worse yet - they have a kit listed for our trucks, and they have a pic of a HEMI !!!!!!!!!
The zerostart units are circulating coolant heaters that you plug in the wall, not diesel fired. They are barely more than $100 too.
The zerostart units are circulating coolant heaters that you plug in the wall, not diesel fired. They are barely more than $100 too.
#4
I remember Dad having an inline heater similar to what you're talking about. It was around 20 years ago if not more and worked great! As long as you're always around electricity they are just fine. The diesel fired units are designed for those who are having to overnight in areas without electricity and such.
Just my measly input, for what it's worth.
Ken
Just my measly input, for what it's worth.
Ken
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#8
I run the convection style heaters on my rig and all my support equipment. I usually order 1000 - 1500 watt heaters. Plug them in over night and at -30 to - 40 c the antifreeze is usually between 25 to 75 c in the morning . It depends on how windy it is. The key is to tie the input from the lowest possible point and the return to the highest.
I am not sure why your truck is such a hard start though I've never had mine not start even when it hits -45 or lower she fires up like a charm. Maybe try running synthetic oil in the winter that will definitely help you out
I am not sure why your truck is such a hard start though I've never had mine not start even when it hits -45 or lower she fires up like a charm. Maybe try running synthetic oil in the winter that will definitely help you out
#9
Doesn't our thermostat remain closed until the engine reaches a certain temp? Assuming that is the case, would this unit be able to circulate anything? Wouldn't the coolant track be closed off?
With such small inlet and outlets, what would you plumb it into?
I'm taking a job way up north next year and am looking for just such a thing. Truck will stay outside all the time and would like a good, inexpensive electric heater. Access to plug-ins won't be a problem. I was thinking Espar, but goodness they are proud of those. I've had my eye on Watlo heaters.
With such small inlet and outlets, what would you plumb it into?
I'm taking a job way up north next year and am looking for just such a thing. Truck will stay outside all the time and would like a good, inexpensive electric heater. Access to plug-ins won't be a problem. I was thinking Espar, but goodness they are proud of those. I've had my eye on Watlo heaters.
#10
AK - I believe sometimes they plumb into blank/unused 'freeze plugs' on the block which I guess access the coolant passages. Sometimes they return to the water pump or otherwise plumb into the cooling system.
I hear your concern on the thermostat - but don't most engines have thermos? I know these things circulate the whole system on tdi's..
I hear your concern on the thermostat - but don't most engines have thermos? I know these things circulate the whole system on tdi's..
#11
A thermostat never completely blocks flow. It always has some bypass. Otherwise, your motor would create severe hot spots that would cause catastrophic warping, or breaking.
My $.02
Merrick
My $.02
Merrick
#12
I had a similar heater on my silverado. I thought it was crap. Didn't seem to work all too well. Of course I did get it at wally world in fairbanks. It just didn't seem to circulate the coolant very much. When it got to -40 the truck wouldn't start. That's when I went and had a block heater installed.
Just my two cents.
Mel
Just my two cents.
Mel
#13
I will put a CATS heater on mine this fall. I have had them on past gassers and loved them. They circulate coolant and are easy to install. Dad has one on his diesel Oliver tractor wich are netoriusly hard to start in the winter. The only thing the tractor gets used for anymore is to blow the yard out after a snow. If he leaves the tractor sitting out and it is below zero you can take your gloves off and put your hands on the engine block and warm them after less than a half hour. The only obvious problem is you need electricity like all the rest. I want a Espar heater some day.
#14
It just seems like the espar or other diesel fired options would be a pain to install. I'm surprised to hear bad reports about these, most ppl I know at least with the tdi version of the zerostart think it's the greatest. To me it would have to work a lot better than stock which is just a 750w probe - with say 1000-1500 watts circulating the coolant...
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