This may be too late, but...

21 millimeters = 0.826771654 inches

 

Correct.

There are exactly 25.4 mm in 1 inch.

 

PTGarcia is correct 35 Mt's on 20x9 because the 20x10 rubbed (2"level)

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Looks good Eddy!

 

a little tip....
if they just barely kiss the back corner, you can slightly masage the wheelwell by placing a 2x4 in there and pulling lightly, then max out the caster adjustmet to skoot the tire another 1/4" further forward....

 

eddy, so u were running a 9 in rim with a leveling kit and 35X12.50 Mts? What was the back spacing on the wheels? Thanks, Jason

 

5.75" backspace, +18mm. offset, 20x9 rims
35x12.5 (13)x20
2" leveling kit.

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Before the 20x9 wheels, I had 20x10 on Nittos 305/55/20 (33"). When I moved to a bigger tire, 35"s, I experience the same problems you are having, so the 20x9s with the above symmetries were the solution

 

Thanks for the response...what setup are you currently running on your 06 and how bad did the 35s rub the back of the front fenders in your Blue truck? Thanks again, Jason

 

06 is getting a 4.5 lift kit (Fabtech with Pro-logic 4.0 shocks) this morning!
Jesse James Wheels 20x10 with 35x12.5(13)x20 Toyos MT.

Originally, this is the setup I wanted for the 06:


Unfortunately I had problems with the Extreme tires (Balance). I liked the Extremes because of the thread pattern and how wide (13.5) they are for 33" tire.


If you follow the general guide that PTGarcia wrote, you will be ok.

Here is a configuration on 33" that looks great (in my opinion)




Last if you have a chance to stop by a Wheel/tire shop, ask them if they can mount a 35" tire on a wheel that fits you truck (8x6.5), not balance needed,
Install and see where you at, you probably have to pay some labor.
The reason I am suggesting this is because the rubbing on one side is not the same as in the other side, in my case the difference was as much of 1/2 an inch.
I also read here somewhere that you can move the fender panel like 1/4 to 1/2 on an inch back.
Hope this helps, now go get them and keep us posted!

 

well my truck must be wierd or something...mounted 305/50/r20 nitto terra grapplers on the Eagle Alloy 20x10s and they still rubbed pretty bad, then put some Toyo 35s on a 20x9 with the backspacing that should fit and they also still rubbed..so i dunno im out of options right now. Im returning the wheels and tires here in a sec....its a bummer too bc i got such a good deal on them..they ordered chrome wheels when i only paid for polished (store lost money on the deal)...and i got a smoking deal on the tires too...paid 2,126 out the door for 20X10 Chrome American Eagle 114s and 35X12.50X20 Nitto Mud Grapplers...this is depressing

 

Do both sides rub?

Have you checked the front of your truck to see if the axle is shifted towards the drivers side due to the leveling kit? That could cause rubbing.

A 20x9 with +18 mm offset (5.71" backspacing) should not rub.

 

i havent checked the axel yet...i was going to get an alignment after the wheels and tires were on..but that would have to be fixed with a new track bar right?

 

Check, because an alignment won't be able to fix this. What you need is a longer track bar or a drop bracket for the existing track bar.

If it is off center I highly suggest replacing the factory track bar with one from Don Thuren. It's much more stout, should eliminate any potential "death wobble", and is adjustable up to 3" of lift.

Let us know what you discover...

 

whats the easiest way to check if it is centered or not? would this be the cause of the poping and binding im getting when turning the wheel?

 

Its usually obvious just by visual inspection. If not, grab a hand tape and measure from fender lip out to edge of tire on both sides. They should be the same.

Yeah, its possible it is causing binding in your steering components.