jaredb900rr

I started a thread about a month ago because I couldn't get my Xenongate bi-xenon HID kit to work on my 2005 truck. The lights would attempt to power up, but then they'd turn off, and they would continue to flicker like this until I turned off the light switch. Here's the thread, Help with Xenongate HID install...puhleeze?.

This is the update to that thread, but I decided to start a new one so people didn't have to wade thru the other stuff to get to the actual fix. It seems like there are a lot of not-so-definite answers when it comes to getting the HID's to work on the 2003-2005 trucks, so I'm writing this to hopefully get rid of some of the confusion.

Xenongate did get back to me via e-mail (they don't provide a phone number on their website) after about a week, and they actually gave me a number to call for customer service. I spoke with one of the guys there and he explained that they did not sell a bi-xenon HID kit that would work for the 2003-2005 Dodge Ram. I was a bit shocked at this, especially since they have a section on their checkout page that asks for your year/make/model of vehicle! He asked me to send back the kit I did purchase for a refund. Since I had already installed the kit in my truck and didn't feel like pulling everything out, I told him I was going to hold on to it for a little bit and see if I could make it work.

Someone mentioned to call Jay from HIDspeed to get their "special kit" which should stop the flickering and get rid of the "lamp out" display message. I called Jay, but he wasn't sure if the "special kit" of his would work with my xenongate connections. I wasn't willing to spend $60 for something that may or may not work, when I knew all I needed was 4 resistors, so I didn't place an order.

It seems people have different views as to which resistors will work, so I'm going to give MY experience with my 2005 truck using the bi-xenon kit from xenongate with 9007 bulbs. I found some 50 watt 6 ohm heat sink resistors online and placed an order for four of them which cost $16 total, including shipping.



They were going to take a week to get here, so I figured I'd do a temporary fix using two of the Radio Shack 20 watt 8 ohm non-inductive resistors. **Please note that these get extremely hot and should NOT be used as a permanent fix**

Here's how I wired in the resistors. It looks similar to the picture below, but I actually did it on the vehicle side of the harness instead of the HID side, so I could return the kit if this didn't work.



Looking at the blue factory 9007 plug there are three wires. One is for low beam, one is for high beam, and the middle wire is a ground. I put one scotchlok connector on each of these wires. I then soldered about six inches of wire onto each end of the resistors so I'd have room to mount them once they were connected to the factory plug. I connected one end of the resistor to the low beam wire and then connected one end of the OTHER resistor to the high beam wire. I then took the two negative sides of the resistors and put them together and connected them to the middle ground wire of the factory 9007 plug. I zip tied them to the frame, knowing that they would probably melt the zip ties, but I was just going to be using these temporarily. These resistors DID fix my flickering light issue, so now the low beams and high beams worked correctly, but I still had a "lamp out" display message.

After about a week, I received my four 50 watt 6 ohm heat sink resistors. I put two of them in place of the Radio Shack resistors on the driver's side, and then turned on the lights to make sure they worked. They did, and I noticed these resistors were much cooler than the Radio Shack ones (the temporary resistors actually fused themselves to the zip ties...that's how hot they got!!!). I then took the other two resistors and installed them like explained above, splicing into the unused factory 9007 plug on the passenger side.

VOILA...no more "lamp out" display message!

Hopefully this will help out a few of you who are on the fence about installing an HID kit.

Jared

dubbs

Thanks Jared..

rahtok

I had to do something like this for my LED taillights on my 06. I've been waiting for some poor sap to do this for the current gen trucks with the H13 bulb. Looks like you're as close as I get.

What color temp did you get and are you happy otherwise? I may just do the H13 Bi-Xenon kit and be done with it. I absolutely hate the amount of light that the stockers DONT put out.

BTW, where'd you find the resistors for that price? That's uber cheap!

6.6lEater

jared instead of using 20w 8ohm resistors switch to a 3000mf capacitor. Does the same thing with out the heat that the resistors put off. Have been running mine for over a year with no problems what so ever. Just an idea.

Gmanndodgeguy

WICKED POST! I've been humm'n and haww'n about laying down the light-o-licious cash for a year. I feel confident enough now to splurge on HIDs thanks to poster's like you guys!

cheers!

Mlucas

Thanks Jared,

Question for you:
Do you have daytime running lights? Probably not, but i thought i would ask.

I have been looking into this for me-but i have read that there is problems with daytime running lights and HID.

cbrahs

the H13 kit from HIDspeed works killer. no lamp out, no flickering

SpLaT

Placing the resistor/capacitor inline on the "lowbeam" side of the oem harness as shown in jarredb900rr drawing, should elimnate the problem of the DRL. The resistor/capacitor should supply enough power to satisfy the computer and remove the "lamp out" on the dash when we add HIDs to our DRL trucks.

jmlcolorado

Jared,

Can you enlighten us all and tell us your source for the 50 watt 6 ohm resistors ytou used? Ive got my HID's on shipping today and would love to order my resistors too.
Thanks for the great post.

Josh

03CTDCO

You can get them on Ebay. Do a search