Would you let me Sand and Hone your block?
09-17-2006, 11:40 PM
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Would you let me Sand and Hone your block?
Man, I am certifiabley nuts. I 400 grit sanded my engine block deck this weekend....the result...polished to a shine...no more low spots and casting marks....and using a metal rule and feeler gauge....there were no variations in the surface over 12 inches anywhere in any direction where a 1.5 thou feeler would fit....I was very proud. Then I measured piston protrusion in traditional billhilly fashion using the 12 inch rule and feeler gauge and a .305mm feeler would fit but no bigger....lucky as I got the head gasket for piston protrusion of greater than 0.30mm.
Buoyed by my skill with the deWalt sander on the block I decided to pull out the 200 grit triplex stone hone and deglaze the cylinders that were polished to a mirror finish.....this was crazy scary. I dropped a foam pad into the cylinders and honed each cylinder pair for about a minute each in consistant up and down motions. Then I buffed the resulting cross hatching lightly with 400 grit sanpaper in a circular path to take off any burrs.....cleaned it up with brakecleaner and oiled the piston rings with a little syn oil and rolled the pistons up and down about 10 times. Once again I was amazed at how good the cylinders turned out....no more mirror finish and a nice polished smooth cross hatch to hold the oil for good sealing and no ring marks at the top of the cylinders.
Then with such workmanship under my belt I protruded each piston pair and sanded the pistons with the 400 grit t clean them up and check for scorching and they all came out very nice with the lettering still clean and no burr on the piston edge. I cleaned the centers out with brake cleaner but they were still black...which is ok with me. I had to grind out the valve mark on piston 5 and then sand it smooth to keep it from retaining heat and combusting into a crack. Turned out great. And yes I photog'd it all.
For all I know I just ruined a perfectly good engine but to me....I think I did a good Job but we won't know till I retorque the head studs a couple of times and bust the 70psi threshold....if the truck actually works when I figure out where all those parts go back.
Ready for the gasket...a nice 5 layer multi layered steel gasket guaranteed to hold 100psi...I hope.
Called in my buddies, they were cutting my lawn and raking it as my buddies girlfriend cooked a big scoff of food. Great friends willing to do anything for cold beer and a sober driver
. Well after they hmmmed and hawed about which one of them was gonna climb in the engine bay to drop the head on to the gasket....I kicked their kilts to the curb and climbed in....(They are both 210lb body builder types, I'm now a 165# wrench) They passed it up to me and with a 5 second grunt I had gently placed it right on the front locator and with a little jiggle it was on the back and ready for studs. We went in for a great meal, they drank all my beer and today I went to the beach. Monday is wrench time.... Next. ks
Buoyed by my skill with the deWalt sander on the block I decided to pull out the 200 grit triplex stone hone and deglaze the cylinders that were polished to a mirror finish.....this was crazy scary. I dropped a foam pad into the cylinders and honed each cylinder pair for about a minute each in consistant up and down motions. Then I buffed the resulting cross hatching lightly with 400 grit sanpaper in a circular path to take off any burrs.....cleaned it up with brakecleaner and oiled the piston rings with a little syn oil and rolled the pistons up and down about 10 times. Once again I was amazed at how good the cylinders turned out....no more mirror finish and a nice polished smooth cross hatch to hold the oil for good sealing and no ring marks at the top of the cylinders.
Then with such workmanship under my belt I protruded each piston pair and sanded the pistons with the 400 grit t clean them up and check for scorching and they all came out very nice with the lettering still clean and no burr on the piston edge. I cleaned the centers out with brake cleaner but they were still black...which is ok with me. I had to grind out the valve mark on piston 5 and then sand it smooth to keep it from retaining heat and combusting into a crack. Turned out great. And yes I photog'd it all.
For all I know I just ruined a perfectly good engine but to me....I think I did a good Job but we won't know till I retorque the head studs a couple of times and bust the 70psi threshold....if the truck actually works when I figure out where all those parts go back.
Ready for the gasket...a nice 5 layer multi layered steel gasket guaranteed to hold 100psi...I hope.
Called in my buddies, they were cutting my lawn and raking it as my buddies girlfriend cooked a big scoff of food. Great friends willing to do anything for cold beer and a sober driver
. Well after they hmmmed and hawed about which one of them was gonna climb in the engine bay to drop the head on to the gasket....I kicked their kilts to the curb and climbed in....(They are both 210lb body builder types, I'm now a 165# wrench) They passed it up to me and with a 5 second grunt I had gently placed it right on the front locator and with a little jiggle it was on the back and ready for studs. We went in for a great meal, they drank all my beer and today I went to the beach. Monday is wrench time.... Next. ks
09-18-2006, 12:07 AM
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When the truck gets buttoned up it is gonna run with K31 hybrid with 45psi blow off (or Super B if the k31 is too fussy), Hellfires, Smarty on valet and tst on 1/0 for 5k miles with the studs being retorqued at 1500miles and 5kmiles. Then the LSD is going on, Blow off is going to 75psi and when I get another truck rolling I'll let it roar for a couple dynos but It'll be a trailer queen for a while.
Engine #2 and #3 are being picked up this week if this truck is a runner.
Selling my business in October and retiring to a new business in the new year.
Engine #2 and #3 are being picked up this week if this truck is a runner.
Selling my business in October and retiring to a new business in the new year.
09-18-2006, 01:08 AM
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Man, I am certifiabley nuts. I 400 grit sanded my engine block deck this weekend....the result...polished to a shine...no more low spots and casting marks....and using a metal rule and feeler gauge....there were no variations in the surface over 12 inches anywhere in any direction where a 1.5 thou feeler would fit....I was very proud. Then I measured piston protrusion in traditional billhilly fashion using the 12 inch rule and feeler gauge and a .305mm feeler would fit but no bigger....lucky as I got the head gasket for piston protrusion of greater than 0.30mm.
Buoyed by my skill with the deWalt sander on the block I decided to pull out the 200 grit triplex stone hone and deglaze the cylinders that were polished to a mirror finish.....this was crazy scary. I dropped a foam pad into the cylinders and honed each cylinder pair for about a minute each in consistant up and down motions. Then I buffed the resulting cross hatching lightly with 400 grit sanpaper in a circular path to take off any burrs.....cleaned it up with brakecleaner and oiled the piston rings with a little syn oil and rolled the pistons up and down about 10 times. Once again I was amazed at how good the cylinders turned out....no more mirror finish and a nice polished smooth cross hatch to hold the oil for good sealing and no ring marks at the top of the cylinders.
Then with such workmanship under my belt I protruded each piston pair and sanded the pistons with the 400 grit t clean them up and check for scorching and they all came out very nice with the lettering still clean and no burr on the piston edge. I cleaned the centers out with brake cleaner but they were still black...which is ok with me. I had to grind out the valve mark on piston 5 and then sand it smooth to keep it from retaining heat and combusting into a crack. Turned out great. And yes I photog'd it all.
For all I know I just ruined a perfectly good engine but to me....I think I did a good Job but we won't know till I retorque the head studs a couple of times and bust the 70psi threshold....if the truck actually works when I figure out where all those parts go back.
Ready for the gasket...a nice 5 layer multi layered steel gasket guaranteed to hold 100psi...I hope.
Called in my buddies, they were cutting my lawn and raking it as my buddies girlfriend cooked a big scoff of food. Great friends willing to do anything for cold beer and a sober driver . Well after they hmmmed and hawed about which one of them was gonna climb in the engine bay to drop the head on to the gasket....I kicked their kilts to the curb and climbed in....(They are both 210lb body builder types, I'm now a 165# wrench) They passed it up to me and with a 5 second grunt I had gently placed it right on the front locator and with a little jiggle it was on the back and ready for studs. We went in for a great meal, they drank all my beer and today I went to the beach. Monday is wrench time.... Next. ks
Buoyed by my skill with the deWalt sander on the block I decided to pull out the 200 grit triplex stone hone and deglaze the cylinders that were polished to a mirror finish.....this was crazy scary. I dropped a foam pad into the cylinders and honed each cylinder pair for about a minute each in consistant up and down motions. Then I buffed the resulting cross hatching lightly with 400 grit sanpaper in a circular path to take off any burrs.....cleaned it up with brakecleaner and oiled the piston rings with a little syn oil and rolled the pistons up and down about 10 times. Once again I was amazed at how good the cylinders turned out....no more mirror finish and a nice polished smooth cross hatch to hold the oil for good sealing and no ring marks at the top of the cylinders.
Then with such workmanship under my belt I protruded each piston pair and sanded the pistons with the 400 grit t clean them up and check for scorching and they all came out very nice with the lettering still clean and no burr on the piston edge. I cleaned the centers out with brake cleaner but they were still black...which is ok with me. I had to grind out the valve mark on piston 5 and then sand it smooth to keep it from retaining heat and combusting into a crack. Turned out great. And yes I photog'd it all.
For all I know I just ruined a perfectly good engine but to me....I think I did a good Job but we won't know till I retorque the head studs a couple of times and bust the 70psi threshold....if the truck actually works when I figure out where all those parts go back.
Ready for the gasket...a nice 5 layer multi layered steel gasket guaranteed to hold 100psi...I hope.
Called in my buddies, they were cutting my lawn and raking it as my buddies girlfriend cooked a big scoff of food. Great friends willing to do anything for cold beer and a sober driver
. Well after they hmmmed and hawed about which one of them was gonna climb in the engine bay to drop the head on to the gasket....I kicked their kilts to the curb and climbed in....(They are both 210lb body builder types, I'm now a 165# wrench) They passed it up to me and with a 5 second grunt I had gently placed it right on the front locator and with a little jiggle it was on the back and ready for studs. We went in for a great meal, they drank all my beer and today I went to the beach. Monday is wrench time.... Next. ksTrending Topics
09-18-2006, 06:49 AM
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Took about 4 hours but I was pretty **** on checking the deck for smoothness with the rule and feeler gauge. Honing the cylinders was the scariest as I thought I should have used a 400grit hone but when I tried the 400grit sandpaper it didn't bust through the glaze too well.
Marine, for you a double dose of Huevos Rancheros followed by a heeping lot of green chili natchos smothered in jack cheese.
Downeaster, I'm retiring to a garage somewhere for a while.
BigBlue once I get the engine work mastered....still gotta tear down the bottom half of the other two for practice....then I'll try my hand at the tranny.
Back to the garage for a fun double date with a torque wrench and air ratchet. ks
Marine, for you a double dose of Huevos Rancheros followed by a heeping lot of green chili natchos smothered in jack cheese.
Downeaster, I'm retiring to a garage somewhere for a while.
BigBlue once I get the engine work mastered....still gotta tear down the bottom half of the other two for practice....then I'll try my hand at the tranny.
Back to the garage for a fun double date with a torque wrench and air ratchet. ks
09-18-2006, 07:51 AM
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OK, got some questions Kerry... what gasket did you go with, I see you mentioned good for 100 psi? Also, I take it you did all this in frame? What about the sandpaper grit falling into the engine while doing this?
09-18-2006, 09:46 AM
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09-18-2006, 11:37 AM
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lmills, There are only two choices with MLS gaskets over and under 0.30 mm piston protrusion. I in my infinite wisdom got the over 0.30mm gasket as it was the only one in stock.
The over gasket has five layers of steel so it is definitely going to fill the gap. The studs were installed last time with 122ft/lb with what looks like never seize. I'm going to end up torquing these studs to 122 ft-lbs with ARP moly lube as per PourinDiesel's advice. With the ARP lube the actual hold down force should be 25% more than with the never sieze that was there before. I predict with the much better surface area and the better hold down force it'll hold 100psi....if I ever get there. My last gasket didn't blow so much as bubble between the 25 and 26 stud and leak coolant into cylinder 5 from the bent valve hammering on the #5 piston. The peak boost pressure in the cylinder was probably 90psi as the boost gauge on the exhaust manifold was over 80psi. With the head and the block deck perfectly polished and flat
I made closed cell foam cut outs to fit the cylinders and then I wrapped them in blue shop cloth and put them in the cylinders. I plugged all the coolant holes with bits of shop cloth and I used 400grit sand paper on a dewalt 1/4 sheet palm sander hooked up to my shop vac. Given the amount of debris that showed up on the rags for clean up of the surrounding area....complete and utter waste of time.
When I honed the cylinders for deglazing obviously there was some metal lost to the 200 grit stones and this was done with the pistons at dead bottom in the cylinder. The stones were covered in a black residue after each cylinder and I brake cleaned the stones after each cylinder. I vacuumed the cylinders out very well and cleaned each cylinder with brake cleaner and clean rags each time. Then I oiled around the piston to catch any debris that was left and cranked up the piston and vacuumed out the oil and dropped the piston down cleaned the cylinder...cranked back up...vacuumed several times. The cylinders looked great and the top of the ring area looked as clean as possible. Then when all cylinders were done being honed I popped the piston pairs up to dead top and polished them and vacuumed the fine aluminum dust out serveral times. Once all was done I reoiled the cylinders and cranked the pistons up and down ten times and cleaned the cylinders after each drop. Then I cleaned the top of head by vacuuming all the ports out and then brake cleaning it and buffing it with a clean rag. I'm sure on my first oil change after this there will be a little more iron and aluminum than normal but what do I know.
Out for some supplies then back to the shop, later, ks
The over gasket has five layers of steel so it is definitely going to fill the gap. The studs were installed last time with 122ft/lb with what looks like never seize. I'm going to end up torquing these studs to 122 ft-lbs with ARP moly lube as per PourinDiesel's advice. With the ARP lube the actual hold down force should be 25% more than with the never sieze that was there before. I predict with the much better surface area and the better hold down force it'll hold 100psi....if I ever get there. My last gasket didn't blow so much as bubble between the 25 and 26 stud and leak coolant into cylinder 5 from the bent valve hammering on the #5 piston. The peak boost pressure in the cylinder was probably 90psi as the boost gauge on the exhaust manifold was over 80psi. With the head and the block deck perfectly polished and flat I made closed cell foam cut outs to fit the cylinders and then I wrapped them in blue shop cloth and put them in the cylinders. I plugged all the coolant holes with bits of shop cloth and I used 400grit sand paper on a dewalt 1/4 sheet palm sander hooked up to my shop vac. Given the amount of debris that showed up on the rags for clean up of the surrounding area....complete and utter waste of time.
When I honed the cylinders for deglazing obviously there was some metal lost to the 200 grit stones and this was done with the pistons at dead bottom in the cylinder. The stones were covered in a black residue after each cylinder and I brake cleaned the stones after each cylinder. I vacuumed the cylinders out very well and cleaned each cylinder with brake cleaner and clean rags each time. Then I oiled around the piston to catch any debris that was left and cranked up the piston and vacuumed out the oil and dropped the piston down cleaned the cylinder...cranked back up...vacuumed several times. The cylinders looked great and the top of the ring area looked as clean as possible. Then when all cylinders were done being honed I popped the piston pairs up to dead top and polished them and vacuumed the fine aluminum dust out serveral times. Once all was done I reoiled the cylinders and cranked the pistons up and down ten times and cleaned the cylinders after each drop. Then I cleaned the top of head by vacuuming all the ports out and then brake cleaning it and buffing it with a clean rag. I'm sure on my first oil change after this there will be a little more iron and aluminum than normal but what do I know.
Out for some supplies then back to the shop, later, ks
09-18-2006, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by abc4yew
Ready for the gasket...a nice 5 layer multi layered steel gasket guaranteed to hold 100psi...I hope.
Originally Posted by lmills
... what gasket did you go with, I see you mentioned good for 100 psi?
