Wheel Backspacing and offset experts please.
#1
Wheel Backspacing and offset experts please.
ok so new wheels are in my not so distant future. Im looking at several weld wheels weld because they are forged quality and i like the looks. (this site has been helpful with their listed specs http://www.truckextras.com/products/weld_wheel.asp ) I am getting a 20" wheel (looking at the cheyennes, velocities, and slingblades) because that is what i will need to clear the calipers on wilwoods upcoming big brake kit. Each is availabe in these two specs, 9.5" wide 6.12" Backspacing, and an offset of 22 mm. the other is 8.5" wide 5.14" backspacing and an offset of 10 mm.
I am going to be running either the 35" toyos or may try the newly redesigned funcountry 2's. both E rated.
What i would like to have is the wheel that will not rub turning. this points me towards the 8.5" wide wheel with 1" less backspacing. However i want to promote long tire life which means the 9.5" wheel would be better with less buldge in the tread center.
On all three wheels, the backspacing is where the width changes. this means about 3.3"s is the width from the wheel mounting surface out. i believe my stock steelie is .75" to 1.25" WMS out. ( cant remmeber if the stocker is 7" wide or 7.5" wide. also this is assuming that my figure of a stock BS of 6.25" is correct)
Also i would like to consider turning scrub for tire and component reasons of course. my problem is even after searching the forums a bit, i couldnt find the stock specs. if i remember right the BS is around 6.25? again to me this would push me in the direction of the 8.5" wide wheel as a 35" aggresive tire would to me have a good chance of rubbing the control arms at lock with the 6.12 BS.
I do have flares so i can deal with them sticking out 2"s give or take a little.
BTW you all know bout the toyo but heres the link to the funcountry... http://dickcepek.com/FC_Radial.html
OK hope that was somewhat understandable. please im looking for the facts here and like joe repeated, just the facts, so please no speculations. These wheels are expensive!
Thanks
I am going to be running either the 35" toyos or may try the newly redesigned funcountry 2's. both E rated.
What i would like to have is the wheel that will not rub turning. this points me towards the 8.5" wide wheel with 1" less backspacing. However i want to promote long tire life which means the 9.5" wheel would be better with less buldge in the tread center.
On all three wheels, the backspacing is where the width changes. this means about 3.3"s is the width from the wheel mounting surface out. i believe my stock steelie is .75" to 1.25" WMS out. ( cant remmeber if the stocker is 7" wide or 7.5" wide. also this is assuming that my figure of a stock BS of 6.25" is correct)
Also i would like to consider turning scrub for tire and component reasons of course. my problem is even after searching the forums a bit, i couldnt find the stock specs. if i remember right the BS is around 6.25? again to me this would push me in the direction of the 8.5" wide wheel as a 35" aggresive tire would to me have a good chance of rubbing the control arms at lock with the 6.12 BS.
I do have flares so i can deal with them sticking out 2"s give or take a little.
BTW you all know bout the toyo but heres the link to the funcountry... http://dickcepek.com/FC_Radial.html
OK hope that was somewhat understandable. please im looking for the facts here and like joe repeated, just the facts, so please no speculations. These wheels are expensive!
Thanks
#2
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Go with the 9.5 with 6.12 and limit your steering travel ever so little if you don't want them to rub. The Toyos (especially the 35's) look best on a wider rim.
#3
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I wouldn't go with anything less than a 5" BS(and that might be pushing it). When I did mine we tried several different wheels with the 37's. Mine are a 6" BS, + 22mm OS and at full lock they would rub the lower control arms. I did like cquestad suggested to you and installed two small bolts on the stops to limit my steering. We tried a 4.5" BS w/ -24mm OS and it rubbed(actually hit!) front and rear on the fenders and stuck out a good 4-5". I think the ideal BS would be 5.75"(w/ 37's) but haven't found any wheels around with it to try. This is all with 37's though, with 35's you maybe ok with 5" but I wouldn't go any less. Find a local wheel place and see if you can try different combos, that's what I did. I didn't care what the wheels looked like I just wanted to see different BS and OS's to determine what would fit best.
#4
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5.5 inch bs with a 37x12.5 on a 8.5 inch wide whel is as close as you would want to be. If my wheel where to be wider...the bs would have to increase as much as the wheel was widened.
#6
ok so it osunds like your both agreeing and the best bet for me would to go with the 9.5" wide with 6.12 BS and 22mm offset. sounds real close to what pull u2 has. How about your wheels width? if you hadnt listed the wheels as you did i would have sworn those were the weld velocities. any how i can deal with the steering lock thats no biggie. im considering getting some custom lower arms built later anyways and it sounds like i could go up in tire size later without a problem. thanks for the info.
And if anyone else wants to jump in with their experience, please do so.
And if anyone else wants to jump in with their experience, please do so.
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#8
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Here is a link to a size comparator; You can input all different sizes and backspacings of wheels/tires combos and it will tell you where you might have problems.
http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/rt_sp...C7EC40367769D4
http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/rt_sp...C7EC40367769D4
#9
Originally posted by Pull U 2
If I remember correctly they are 9.5" wide. The 114's are a copy of the Velociti 8's but are less then half the price. I think the Welds are like $500+ ea. I paid $800 total for mine
If I remember correctly they are 9.5" wide. The 114's are a copy of the Velociti 8's but are less then half the price. I think the Welds are like $500+ ea. I paid $800 total for mine
Thats why i want the welds. they are forged and have a good finish.
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