What Turbo And Fuel Setup To Run 12's Reliably?
#1
What Turbo And Fuel Setup To Run 12's Reliably?
i use my truck for work during the week towing around 3k lbs. and its my daily driver the rest of the time. i plan on racing at some events throughout the season so.......assuming i had a full billet trans and was able to drive half decent, along w/ my smarty what turbo and fuel setup would be best to make me enough reliable power to run well into the 12's at the track? if it can be done w/ a single turbo i believe i would like to go that route to keep things simple if possible. i am clueless on the differences between different turbo's but as far as fuel i was thinking about a fass and floor it stg.2 and injectors (not sure what kind, also clueless) and also another fueling box if needed (ez, mp8, etc). any help would be great, thanks.
btw i do have a spare truck for work so when something breaks i will be alright w/ some downtime
btw i do have a spare truck for work so when something breaks i will be alright w/ some downtime
#2
call nathan at MPI maximized performance Inc
he can answer any questions you have and will help you put together a nice turbo setup.
you did not say what year truck I assume its the 06 in your sig ?
here is a solid simple reliable recipe for high 12s
HTS transmission approx 5000.00 call dusty at HTS transmissions
MPI twins s300/s400 4650.00 call Nathan at MPI
PPE dual cp3s 3500.00 call Dan at PPE
Smarty beta 4.4 or 4.3 685.00 call bob wagner smarty power
about 14,000.00 to do it right , and you are set high 12s very easy with a ton of reliability and very simple and straight forward.
with a single 62/71/13ss you could save about 3500.00 but it will never run like a set of twins UNREAL worth every single penny and more! the single turbo will get toasty and will never run cool egts like twins.
a single pump will need to be modded approx 1200.00 but will never be as good or reliable as dual cp3s but you save 2300.00
so cut corners run 12s and eventually become unreliable but do it for a short while at a cost of 8,035.00
or do it right the first time make it reliable without short cuts and build it to last 13,835.00
ditch the 33s go to a maximized tire size of 285/70/17 the stock 265/70/17 are best for drag racing as big tires are for looks and suck for going fast they rob HP bad!
the choice is up to you ?
he can answer any questions you have and will help you put together a nice turbo setup.
you did not say what year truck I assume its the 06 in your sig ?
here is a solid simple reliable recipe for high 12s
HTS transmission approx 5000.00 call dusty at HTS transmissions
MPI twins s300/s400 4650.00 call Nathan at MPI
PPE dual cp3s 3500.00 call Dan at PPE
Smarty beta 4.4 or 4.3 685.00 call bob wagner smarty power
about 14,000.00 to do it right , and you are set high 12s very easy with a ton of reliability and very simple and straight forward.
with a single 62/71/13ss you could save about 3500.00 but it will never run like a set of twins UNREAL worth every single penny and more! the single turbo will get toasty and will never run cool egts like twins.
a single pump will need to be modded approx 1200.00 but will never be as good or reliable as dual cp3s but you save 2300.00
so cut corners run 12s and eventually become unreliable but do it for a short while at a cost of 8,035.00
or do it right the first time make it reliable without short cuts and build it to last 13,835.00
ditch the 33s go to a maximized tire size of 285/70/17 the stock 265/70/17 are best for drag racing as big tires are for looks and suck for going fast they rob HP bad!
the choice is up to you ?
#3
I am in the 12s with the mods in my signature. It is my daily driver, has over 82k miles and many, many passes down the track. I don't tow heavy so the II SPS66 single is not a problem for me. I still have stock cp3 and injectors, at least for now.
Every truck is going to act different with mods, but the most important thing for me was full billet transmission built for racing and matchin custom 3 disc TC and upgraded flexplate. Air Intake, Exhaust, FASS, II SPS66 are the only mechanical mods after that. Everything else is electronics and programs.
So you might start with the TC/Trans and then start adding until you get where you want.
Every truck is going to act different with mods, but the most important thing for me was full billet transmission built for racing and matchin custom 3 disc TC and upgraded flexplate. Air Intake, Exhaust, FASS, II SPS66 are the only mechanical mods after that. Everything else is electronics and programs.
So you might start with the TC/Trans and then start adding until you get where you want.
#4
i use my truck for work during the week towing around 3k lbs. and its my daily driver the rest of the time. i plan on racing at some events throughout the season so.......assuming i had a full billet trans and was able to drive half decent, along w/ my smarty what turbo and fuel setup would be best to make me enough reliable power to run well into the 12's at the track? if it can be done w/ a single turbo i believe i would like to go that route to keep things simple if possible. i am clueless on the differences between different turbo's but as far as fuel i was thinking about a fass and floor it stg.2 and injectors (not sure what kind, also clueless) and also another fueling box if needed (ez, mp8, etc). any help would be great, thanks.
btw i do have a spare truck for work so when something breaks i will be alright w/ some downtime
btw i do have a spare truck for work so when something breaks i will be alright w/ some downtime
#5
thanks for the help guys, i planned on spending between 10 and 15k this spring on the truck so i guess it should get me where i want to be. i do like the idea of twins but i would rather keep things simple w/ a single as long as egt's dont become a problem. i would also like to keep a single cp3 to make things simpler as well. and for the 33" tires....after measuring them they are only 1.5" taller than stock but much wider which would help w/ traction so i am going to keep em, besides the nitto 285's are actuallt taller then 33's
assuming i go w/ a fass and floor it stg.2, what injectors would be good for a single turbo setup? i am unfamiliar w/ different brands of injectors. also how much better would the mp8 be over the ez?
assuming i go w/ a fass and floor it stg.2, what injectors would be good for a single turbo setup? i am unfamiliar w/ different brands of injectors. also how much better would the mp8 be over the ez?
#6
I think you will unaimous vote for the flux injectors by f1 diesel. DonM (the owner) is a member here and regularlly answers questions here. He will completly go through your injector instead of just sending you some tips. He will also work with you on a quick turn around. I would think 3.3 fluxes is all you can go on a stage 2 cp3. You should also get some mileage increase if you can keep your foot out of it.
Dont forget to get the filters with your fass or gdp fuel system so you can safely add some preassure. The ez is supposed to be smoother on the power but the mp8 lets you adjust 0-100hp.
I like my aurura 5000 for a single charger but if I was to go twins I would call nathan.
I would call Bob Wagner, he can give you a discount if you do the inj., cp3, smarty, and all that through him. Very professional and very knoledgable.
You might want some traction bars as well.
Dont forget to get the filters with your fass or gdp fuel system so you can safely add some preassure. The ez is supposed to be smoother on the power but the mp8 lets you adjust 0-100hp.
I like my aurura 5000 for a single charger but if I was to go twins I would call nathan.
I would call Bob Wagner, he can give you a discount if you do the inj., cp3, smarty, and all that through him. Very professional and very knoledgable.
You might want some traction bars as well.
#7
thanks guys, i already have the smarty though (see sig). i appreciate all the help im getting on the topic. so flux injectors are good? are they new injectors or rebuilds of stockers? are all aftermarket injectors reworked stock injectors?
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#8
Don rebuilds your injectors. I think I heard that new injectors are $325 each new and then if the tips cost $1000 or so them you would be lookin at $3000. I'll take rebuilt.
Im in the process of doing the floor it stage 2 and flux 3.3's and studs now so i'll let you know how it turns out.
Im in the process of doing the floor it stage 2 and flux 3.3's and studs now so i'll let you know how it turns out.
#10
#11
sounds like brand new injectors would be very expensive, i dont mind rebuilt injectors. sare the flux's what most guys are running? i have heard of different hp injectors like 50 or 100hp, what would the 3.3's be considered?
im sure guys have gone 12's w/ stock injectors but i want to be able to run WELL into the 12's and do it reliably so i dont mind spending the $$ to do it right.
im sure guys have gone 12's w/ stock injectors but i want to be able to run WELL into the 12's and do it reliably so i dont mind spending the $$ to do it right.
#13
#15
ghost ram if you have 13-15 k to spend on your truck , you really need to catch a drive in a truck that has a set of twins dialed in.
drive-ability factor is far superior to any single turbo , I have had 62/65/14 & 66/71/16cm single turbos
my truck has been tuned 511/975 with the htb2 62 and 655/1262 with the 66
both were excellent but each has compromises egts, spooling , & drive ability issues
with a set of twins egts, spooling, drive ability , become non issues
600 hp is approx what you need to get down into the 12s in a 7000 lb + truck
a solid fuel system is in order a fass system or gdp set up right
along with cp3 setup is in order to avoid fuel problems.
with a modded cp3 you will most likely need to run 20lbs maybe more of pressure this can lead to reliability issues down the road eventually you will end up with dual cp3s, as most do because its the right way to set up a truck for reliable fueling. so spend 1200 or so now for a cheap band-aid or step up and take care of the problem correctly now for around 3000, if you do it later you will end up spending more time & money.
a stock cp3 will not keep up with the fuel needed to keep up with fluxs 3s & smarty programming, on higher settings in the long run you will spend more $ because it will be a problem for you.
dual cp3s most kits come either with a d-max 2nd pump or the oem dodge pump in both cases the pumps are normally stock and are set up at 10-13 lbs of fuel pressure. this has been reliable and has provided results without draining the rail pressure beyond 850 hp +
most guys serious about setting up a truck the right way , recognize the fact that dual cp3s are the way to go for high HP applications and believe me running 12s means 600 hp range with traction and no fuel starvation !
I also do agree that the Don M fluxs injectors offer the best quality and performance
richard from GDP ran a set of fluxs 1s in his truck and it made over 600 hp so you dont have to go too big on injector size for what you are looking to do I would say flux 2s would be the biggest size you need ,
and usually anything over 2s mpg will be compromised as well. so maybe anything between flux 1-2s
should work.
I would setup your truck with everything else first dyno it and run it down the track a few times see where you are at then you should be able to hit the injector size right on target , instead of throwing in a set of injectors without any testing first , with stock injectors.
drive-ability factor is far superior to any single turbo , I have had 62/65/14 & 66/71/16cm single turbos
my truck has been tuned 511/975 with the htb2 62 and 655/1262 with the 66
both were excellent but each has compromises egts, spooling , & drive ability issues
with a set of twins egts, spooling, drive ability , become non issues
600 hp is approx what you need to get down into the 12s in a 7000 lb + truck
a solid fuel system is in order a fass system or gdp set up right
along with cp3 setup is in order to avoid fuel problems.
with a modded cp3 you will most likely need to run 20lbs maybe more of pressure this can lead to reliability issues down the road eventually you will end up with dual cp3s, as most do because its the right way to set up a truck for reliable fueling. so spend 1200 or so now for a cheap band-aid or step up and take care of the problem correctly now for around 3000, if you do it later you will end up spending more time & money.
a stock cp3 will not keep up with the fuel needed to keep up with fluxs 3s & smarty programming, on higher settings in the long run you will spend more $ because it will be a problem for you.
dual cp3s most kits come either with a d-max 2nd pump or the oem dodge pump in both cases the pumps are normally stock and are set up at 10-13 lbs of fuel pressure. this has been reliable and has provided results without draining the rail pressure beyond 850 hp +
most guys serious about setting up a truck the right way , recognize the fact that dual cp3s are the way to go for high HP applications and believe me running 12s means 600 hp range with traction and no fuel starvation !
I also do agree that the Don M fluxs injectors offer the best quality and performance
richard from GDP ran a set of fluxs 1s in his truck and it made over 600 hp so you dont have to go too big on injector size for what you are looking to do I would say flux 2s would be the biggest size you need ,
and usually anything over 2s mpg will be compromised as well. so maybe anything between flux 1-2s
should work.
I would setup your truck with everything else first dyno it and run it down the track a few times see where you are at then you should be able to hit the injector size right on target , instead of throwing in a set of injectors without any testing first , with stock injectors.