Lightman

Racor filters are available all over the place. I bought mine online, can't remember exactly where. I know west marine has the filter I used for sure, although they were priced a bit higher if I remember correctly. I used the 120AS (S signifies 2 micron). I didn't realize quite how small it was or just how much space was available where I mounted it when I bought it. No problem, the 120B uses the same head and a longer filter, and it flows 20gph compared to ten. So $15 later for some R13S elements and I'm happy/leaving it alone.

Here are some pics of my install. The shorter 120A filter is shown in the picture. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=16637

Razor67

Although the gravity feed works very well, Here in Alberta Canada it is not legal. If a mechanic were to install a gravity feed system and a leak developed that mechanic could be held responsible for the clean up costs. I have actualy heard of this happening here. I have a 12 volt pump mounted inside the frame rail which is tied into the top of the tank. I am able to pump while driving and have led light on my pillar to remind me when I am pumping.

Lightman

I've heard gravity is not legal in some places if you don't have a valve or proper venting. In any case, there are a lot of members running this method at least in the states, that don't have any issues.

FiverBob

Maybe I am dense. Why would a gravity system develop a leak any sooner than a pumped system? If either one leaked, which one would dump the most fuel out before you found the leak? HHMMMM

ConfusedBob

Razor67

On a gravity fed system the most likely place to develop a leak is in the line or at a connection so the whole tank would leak out. With a top pick up, if the line or connection develops a leak you lose the fuel in the line but not the whole tank. I would prefer a gravity fed system but I am a chicken and don't like paying fines.

Lightman

Umm there is only one outlet on the tank and that's a ball valve, which is VERY securely threaded into the tank. Since that is closed after filling, there is no way for a leak in the line anyway. With many fewer connections and things to go wrong, gravity is far more foolproof. I believe it was fiverbob actually who had an electric pump setup fail on him on a road trip..

Razor67

I would prefer a gravity fed system but I am a chicken and don't like paying fines.

Still the issue of it being illegal here in Alberta.

FiverBob

Now wait a minute - - if the pump is pumping and there is fuel in the tank and there is a leak in the line, it doesn't matter whether the fuel is coming from the bottom of the tank or the top of the tank. It is coming a lot harder and faster with a pump pushing it than with gravity. There is no danger of an electric pump involved in the process of gravity feed. I am somewhat baffled by some areas that outlaw the gravity feed. Oh well - - sure like my gravity feed system - - the others have left me stranded several times.

sooner64

I am in the market for a tool box/auxillary tank(like 50+) to put in my 05 srw 3500. It is the short box and the only tanks I can seem to find are for long boxes. Can anyone help me?

Big Bob

Go to Northern Tools. This is the combination fuel/tool box tank I've put in both of my trucks. They also have a 51 gallon combination tank, plus straight auxiliary fuel tanks.

I have installed 2 of the RDS 60 Fuel/Tool box tanks. One in my 99 (White Obsession) and one in my 04 (Ghost Rider). In both installations I did the following and have not had any problems at all.

On the RDS tank, you will have an outlet line, return line and an overflow connections. I pumped fuel from the auxiliary tank into my existing factory tank from a switch located inside my cab. This way I use the existing stock fuel gauge. From the RDS tank I first installed a manual shutoff valve so when I changed the filter, I would not have a syphon effect, then I installed the in-line filter, I then installed a electronic fuel shutoff valve (or a line switch for 2 tanks, made one active and the other was capped off), then I installed a 12V fuel pump. The fuel pump and shutoff valved are control by the switch in the cab. From my research, this installation is DOT approved.

As far as how I tapped into my factory tank, I drilled and tapped fittings in the top of the fuel tank ( I installed the fittings with JB Weld) for both the incoming fuel and also a breather or overflow back to the auxiliary tank. This way, if I forget and leave the pump on, it pumps back into the auxiliary tank.

The overflow line on the auxiliary tank was routed thru the bed, I wrapped the line with a 360* wind in it, and the zip tied under the bed for drainage.

Hope this helps.

Lightman

I have the northern tool (made by rds) 51 gal tank/tool combo. It's completely legal and simple to gravity feed from the aux tank to your main tank, and the cost is low/no parts to break. If you do a search I or fiverbob have posted lists of the parts needed.. Very simple...ball valve from the tank drain to a hose that t's into the filler neck overflow tube. There may be pics in my gallery. I plumbed a 2 mic filter between. The whole setup including install parts was $500. Just another option. There are some nice pricy ones with electronics at transferflow.com.

Big Bob

I would advise you to check your State's requirements, each State is different.

The cost for my shutoff valve, pump, hose and clamps, etc. was under $100.

I'm sorry Lightman, I haven't read about your installation, but I do have one question for you. Do you have to stop, and get out of your truck to turn the valve on to gravity feed fuel into you stock tank? Or does it automatically feed all the time?

Lightman

There is a myth that gravity feed is illegal in some states, and the reality is that it's illegal to gravity feed directly into your fuel tank. However, if you gravity feed from your aux to your main tank, the aux tank is technically considered a 'transfer tank' , to which different rules apply. These are federal, not state laws. It's all good if you want to have a transfer tank gravity feed, very common on OTR trucks.

Big Bob

Lightman, don't know if you missed this?

Lightman

Sorry, I did miss it. Yes, there is a ball valve on the drain side of the tank. If I choose, I can leave it open all the time, so the gauge permanently reads full until the aux tank is empty...when the gauge starts to drop, you know you're down to your main tank. Or you can keep the valve closed by manually walking back there and flipping the ball valve (easy), if you choose. Most of the time I leave it closed until my main tank gets low then crack it open. If I'm on road trips or know I'm going to be using a lot of fuel, I will just leave it open. If you leave it open, it will not overflow out of the fill neck.