First the obvious....Chris when you reshaped the pipe could you have bent it to the point it restricted the flow ?

And, when you did this, did you disconnect the rubber hose on the end of the hard pipe that goes to the air to oil cooler behind the fuel filter ? Even if you didn't disconnect it, it's possible that's where your leak is ?

I saw the same thing while doing a sled pull except my water temp gauge buried... who knows how hot it was. It took a little while to cool down from there but, I think I may have done some damage to that cooler as I found trans and coolant leaking in light amounts. Both those fluids go through the cooler and the last thing I need is for them to mix which can happen if it goes bad. I'm thinking I fried the thermostat in it which may have restricted the flow and cause the over heating. So, I'm removing it completely.

Just a thought...

 

I mentioned to him to replace or remove the therostat...

I trahed one in 10 seconds once with a water temp of 230 (who really knows) plus...lol.

 

I'm not talking about the the water temp thermo. There one that's in the water/oil cooler that acts as a valve to let water in or out.

 

where is that?

got me worried now too...

Is it intergral?

 

uno-momento... I'll try to post a pic

 

The hose doing a 90 in the second pic is the one I was talking about to Chris that he may have disturbed. I'm not saying that thermo is bad or can block flow but, if it does.... the trans fluid would make the water hotter

If that cooler goes bad, that possibility of trans fluid and water mixing is high and can cause a world of damage

NOTE: The transmission oil cooler uses an internal
thermostat to control transmission oil flow
through the cooler. This thermostat is servicable.
1. Remove the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
REMOVAL).
2. Remove the snap ring retaining the thermostat end
plug.
3. Remove the end plug, thermostat and spring from
transmission oil cooler.

 

I am not sure how that would back pressure up in the head...it is a bypass type line???

Either way...I might be checking mine next time I am in there.

 

will it matter but chris' truck is 6spd i believe.

danny

 

Yeah it's a 6 speed for sure.

 

ok... I didn't realize Chris had a 6S. I don't know that this would really have anything to do with the problem even if he had an auto. It was a thought as it's something I'm dealing with.

Christain, It wouldn't cause back pressure but, since water flows through it, if the thermo some how was bad it could continue to let tranny fluid through and possibly cause higher water temp. That would cause the higher psi.

If Chris did have an auto and the line from the heater core to that cooler got messed with some how... I though that was something he cause look at.

 

Hey Ty, this is off the subject a little but a friend of mine pulled his t-stat on an 01 6 speed because of overheating and found a spring stuck in it that looks like the one in the pic you posted.It was a little bigger than say a spring in a bic pen.Could this be what it is from and if so is it something that needs attention?Sorry for the hi-jack!Maybe pm me if you don't mind.

 

No, there's no way the spring could get up there without going through that cooler. If that happen then there'd be trans fluid in the coolant and vise versa. That would be very bad !

That T-stat is there to open when the trans fluid is cold and close when it's warmed up. Then the cooler acts as a secondary trans cooler. I don't see that it's that necessary to warm up the trans fluid, unless you live where it gets sub-zero. For that reason, I'm removing mine.

 

Alright #1 I'm very frustrated right know. I've talked to several people in the last couple days and still have not figured anything out. I could still have a bubble in the cooling system. I've tried a new t-stat, retorq the studs to 128ft/lbs, Run without a t-stat. I still get coolant blowing off from the rad cap. I'm going to try a by-pass from opie as a last ditch effort I also want to thank everyone who else givin me there time to try and figure this out. But still I'm up for suggesstions. Under normal driving I don't get any problems at all. Currently I'm letting the truck idle for an hour at 1100rpm for a last ditch effort to get the bubbles out if there are any.

 

This is what Opie said
I have seen all generations of 5.9's blow freeze plugs. Others have tried their attempts to bypass all water pressure on some trucks. What most people don't realize is for each pound of pressure exerted on the cooling system it raises the boiling point of the coolant by 3 degrees at sea level. This allows the cooling system to operate at a higher temperature before boiling over, increasing the system’s efficiency and reducing emissions. IE also feels the ISB in the Dodge trucks are making more coolant pressure than what is really required. (I seriously doubt the manufacturer designed for 500+hp trucks some of which are turning over 4000 rpm.)



So what is to be gained by running a coolant regulated bypass? On IE's bypass cylinders 5 & 6 run cooler as does the engine at all rpms.

There is the benefit about not blowing freeze plugs do to lowering/regulating coolant pressure. There is the benefit about the freeing up hp not required to make higher pressure. How much hp depends on rpm but unlike claims like that of hp/milage from things like after market airhorns this one is tangible.

Some will push for running an electric water pump, pretty but this bypass reg honestly beats it hands down. Longevity and reliability for all trucks both competitive and daily drivers will be better off.