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Turbo Trouble??

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Old 10-01-2005, 11:13 AM
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Not a problem. Things weren't exactly going my way either as you can imagine. And thanks for the welcome.

Travis
Old 10-02-2005, 02:36 PM
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sorry i can't help myself, being a mother of two very industrious guys, but what were you thinking? i feel much better now we just have an ongoing nightmare with a 97 12v that some kid had more money than sense and screwed up a perfectly good truck, which he neglected to tell anyone when he traded it in.... so now we have had the truck for 31/2 months it has only been on the road for 3 weeks of that. i understand using mods i have them myself but i waited a few miles first let it get warm first only a suggestion i know i am not a professional just a word to the wise.
Old 10-02-2005, 06:16 PM
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This was a confusing thread to read , impeller at the wastegate ? most likely it was the turbine wheel that got FOD. and the impeller was ok , and nothing got into the CAC,
Old 10-02-2005, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnCA58
This was a confusing thread to read , impeller at the wastegate ? most likely it was the turbine wheel that got FOD. and the impeller was ok , and nothing got into the CAC,
I've got to agree with John
Old 10-02-2005, 06:42 PM
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werewolf, the 97 12V wouldn't happen to be an extended cab with dual stacks would it?
Old 10-02-2005, 07:24 PM
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First of all, I am not exactly a kid and have not been for SEVERAL years. Oh how I wish I still was though. As far as knowing the exact part I am not sure of the name. The turbo is attached to the portion (where the wastegate is) that is directly below the exhaust manifold. A small portion of the tap fell into that area and there is an impeller in that area that is attached to the turbo. This is the impeller that I need to replace.

I am well aware of the impact that this box can have on a stock, new motor. I believe I have more than enough selfcontrol to be able to manage the power until it is broken in. This was a misfortunate occurance, but for those that are quick to ridicule, please dont act like you have never done anything mistakenly. I have posted here for informative help. If I want ridicule, I will call my best friend.

Travis Smith
Old 10-02-2005, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by StrokeThisCTD
take everything off, blow the turbo and take it to the dealer to get a brand new turbo

my friend just got his 6.0 Stroke back today. he blew one turbo at about 10,000 miles and blew the motor at 46,000 miles and it was just replaced with a brand new 04 6.0L last week. Warranty and all, even though he was modified.

i would just blow the turbo and make the dealer think it was like that from the factory
When the dealer is deciding to warranty the turbo would they be asking numerous questions about the hole drilled in the exhaust manifold?
Old 10-03-2005, 12:01 AM
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Okay , what you need to replace is the Turbine wheel which also is part of the shafts , the Impeller attaches the the shaft for the intake part of the turbo. you can order just the turbine wheel. and put the turbo together with the replacement , but I would take the impeller you have and the new turbine wheel and have it balance as a unit for long life. there are many turbo shop that can balance them and index them so you can put them together right. would save yourself alot of money.
Old 10-03-2005, 01:59 PM
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We have a new replacement turbo for your truck in stock at a very good price. Weather it will hurt it to run it or not, can't really say, but its not a good idea as a minimum it is no longer balanced and may break even more if run.
Old 10-03-2005, 02:29 PM
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I don't ridicule or judge anybody when it comes to stuff like this happening!! Because GOD knows I have had my fair share of dummy moments in my lifetime, and I only have 23 years under my belt!!!

I would just try to replace the wheel and go from there, sounds to me it just got chipped up and it shouldn't have damaged anything else. To bad it's brand new with all of the warranty bull crap, then it would be a perfect excuse to get a BIGGER one OH well, the important thing is to get her all fixed up so you can finally enjoy your new truck!!!
Old 10-03-2005, 02:48 PM
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Pyro Probe placement......

I hope everyone remembers this thread as a reason not to go pre turbo, and when the next pre/post debate breaks out, we can all use this as an example.
Old 10-03-2005, 04:02 PM
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Big Joe,

Yes, I will remember it because it is the only one I have ever read of damage resulting from tapping pre-turbo. Hind sight is always 20/20, knowing what he knows now, he would have taken it apart when the tap broke. I don't see this is a deciding factor for pre or post turbo.......especially since with post turbo you can only guess what your actual temps are. Just my opinion.

Waylan
Old 10-03-2005, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by walexa
Big Joe,

Yes, I will remember it because it is the only one I have ever read of damage resulting from tapping pre-turbo. Hind sight is always 20/20, knowing what he knows now, he would have taken it apart when the tap broke. I don't see this is a deciding factor for pre or post turbo.......especially since with post turbo you can only guess what your actual temps are. Just my opinion.

Waylan
Very true, I just made a point that everyones care free idea about chips, and debris going through the turbo, can actually bite you.
Old 10-04-2005, 06:32 AM
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Been reading this site for a long time and TDR for over a decade.Sold and handled the install of severl dozens of Banks Stage three kits on 12 valves with pre turbo pyro installs.This is THE FIRST thread I've ever read and the FIRST pyro releated damage!
Old 10-04-2005, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jc9995
So your missing small peices
So you KNOW the engine was running when the aformentioned peices were not so gently removed from the turbo compressor wheel....
So where do you think those peices are now? Might want to take your charge air cooler off and see if you can dump out any of the bigger peices that got caught in the tank on the inlet side of the cooler. Before they get to the engine.
Also, I too would NOT run the engine until the turbo is repaired. The other guys are right. The G-forces created at 50,000 rpm are insane. It will rip that thing apart extremely fast.
How are pieces from the exhaust side going to get back to the intake side? They just blow out the exhaust pipe or get hung in the cat or muffler. Now if the intake impeller goes down, then you will have metal in the charge air cooler.


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