JIMCTD

Got a deal on an Aurora 3K, and am looking for installation/swap instructions and tips. Tried the board search engine, and got a few tips, but nothing really detailed. If I try to do this myself, it'll be solo, so I'm trying to decide if I'm better off just paying a shop to do the job. If anyone has a link to instructions or tips, I'd appreciate the help. TIA!

jlibert

do the install yourself, it's really not that hard. It's been a little while since I installed mine, but I'll tell you what I remember.

1. spray down the bolts/nuts with penetrating oil the day before you do the swap.
2. To break a couple of the bolts loose I had to use an combo (box/open end) wrench with another wrench on the end for leverage.
3. Definitely take off the fenderwell liner and wheel (it takes about 6 minutes to do).

I'm sure others will chime in with some additional hints

staarma

Taking it off solo is easy. Putting it back on is not so easy solo. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the turbo and also to get the downpipe back into the cast elbow while tightening the v-band clamp. I pull the exhaust manifold and turbo together. It's much easier this way and it also allows you to properly torque the nuts on the turbo to manifold union. You shouldn't need manifold gaskets but I got an extra set just in case. Mine were fine the first time but this last time I will use the new set because I feel like the current ones are flatened out a bit for my taste. The drain tube on the bottom of the turbo needs to be swapped in before you attempt the reinstallation of the new turbo. The oil supply can be done after you install it though. The coolant hose bracket is a pain to deal with but it does have rubber unions in it that allow for enough room to clear the manifold stud if you finess it just right. Taking the inner fender and wheel off is a great idea I do it every time I work on that side of the engine. When you mount the cast elbow, don't tighten the clamp all of the way because it will need clocked a little to line up with the down pipe. I'm probably forgetting a bunch of stuff but hopefully others will chime in with any missing info. Also, don't forget the resistor plug that goes into the stock electronic wastegate harness. They are available from HTT or II for around $30. Good luck.

bigcat83

And make sure you prelube your turbo before starting.

JIMCTD

Thanks guys - all welcome words!
bigcat - I've seen reference to prelubing, but no specifics. Is this simply filling through the inlet line once the outlet line is hooked up and the turbo mounted? And how much water do I use?









(joke)

bigcat83

lol i was like what hold one lol.

Ya just intall the drain line first then pour oil into the inlet and spin the cold wheel of the turbo then your ready to go.some folks don;t but i have seen turbos take a beep after a few thousand miles.cause of that.

JIMCTD

Got'cha!
Thanks for the help.

bigcat83

ya no problem hope it all owrks out for ya.

dodgezilla04

you may have to grind the outside diameter of the box wrench to fit the rear inner nut. go buy a cheap one you dont mind ruining. then use a propane torch to warm the nuts and shoot penetrating oil on them after the torch is away. do this a couple of times and then use the wrench to remove. makes it so much easier, and lessens the chance to gall the threads.

jwb600

you can take the manifold and turbo off together. thats how I do it. I got new studs from cummins along with new gaskets. this way will take 2 people. the combo together is not lightweight