Is it true that I need more than a TC/VB at 55k miles?
#46
Don't do boosted launches or burn outs, don't lug the tranny, and keep the maintenance up on it. Standing full throttle launches aren't good on them either.
acook, my mistake. I thought he was asking if it will hold his power now.
acook, my mistake. I thought he was asking if it will hold his power now.
#48
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Bigblue...buying a TC and VB doesn't conotate that your on a tight budget...If your looking at spending $2000 dollars on the transmission of your pickup truck you've got a bit of cash burning a hole in your pocket...and if you've got cash burning a hole in your pocket, go nuts and get it done all out in one felt swoop...IMO
and all those people you talked to...I called them and asked them viking diesels same question - and they told me that they'd like my business but to save it for more than the TC/VB...those two alone will rip apart a stock input shaft and all the other parts of a 48re. I'm not trying to turn biz away from these guys...I guess it could seem as I'm trying to get them more.
I was told to do you what you had done...just a VB and no TC...honest answers from the tranny guys. VB can make a nice noticable difference and not break the back...but to drop an ENTIRE tranny just to install ONE part....I haven't yet found a way to see the common sense in that.
Anyways, to all of you that have a modded trans, horray for you. I bet they are a joy to drive. If i had the $ to bling out a fully built trans...and then the upgraded fuel pumps, CP3 pumps, big line kits, new turbo's, timing boxes, fueling boxes, etc....it goes on and on.....that's why for now I'm saving my money...to do it right, truly right, takes a lot of $....just in the end to (most likely) start breaking things on my truck...hmmm
and all those people you talked to...I called them and asked them viking diesels same question - and they told me that they'd like my business but to save it for more than the TC/VB...those two alone will rip apart a stock input shaft and all the other parts of a 48re. I'm not trying to turn biz away from these guys...I guess it could seem as I'm trying to get them more.
I was told to do you what you had done...just a VB and no TC...honest answers from the tranny guys. VB can make a nice noticable difference and not break the back...but to drop an ENTIRE tranny just to install ONE part....I haven't yet found a way to see the common sense in that.
Anyways, to all of you that have a modded trans, horray for you. I bet they are a joy to drive. If i had the $ to bling out a fully built trans...and then the upgraded fuel pumps, CP3 pumps, big line kits, new turbo's, timing boxes, fueling boxes, etc....it goes on and on.....that's why for now I'm saving my money...to do it right, truly right, takes a lot of $....just in the end to (most likely) start breaking things on my truck...hmmm
#50
Flooring it at like 1600 rpm. The engine bogs down and nothing but smoke comes out. Not good on the tranny. Lots of power, little pressure in the tranny, lots of heat and slippage. I try not to get on my tranny hard until I'm at at least 1800 rpms. Even with the DTT.
#52
Registered User
Bigblue...buying a TC and VB doesn't conotate that your on a tight budget...If your looking at spending $2000 dollars on the transmission of your pickup truck you've got a bit of cash burning a hole in your pocket...and if you've got cash burning a hole in your pocket, go nuts and get it done all out in one felt swoop...IMO
and all those people you talked to...I called them and asked them viking diesels same question - and they told me that they'd like my business but to save it for more than the TC/VB...those two alone will rip apart a stock input shaft and all the other parts of a 48re. I'm not trying to turn biz away from these guys...I guess it could seem as I'm trying to get them more.
and all those people you talked to...I called them and asked them viking diesels same question - and they told me that they'd like my business but to save it for more than the TC/VB...those two alone will rip apart a stock input shaft and all the other parts of a 48re. I'm not trying to turn biz away from these guys...I guess it could seem as I'm trying to get them more.
I'm sorry, but I have to wave the flag on this one. I've talked with most of the tranny shops that BB mentioned and every one of them told me that if I'm staying at or under 500 RWHP the TQ converter and VB would be just fine. Most also said a billet input would help, but wasn't necessary. There is a huge diff. between 2K and 7K which is what most fully built trannys cost. Most people can swing 2K. Can I afford the 2K? Not really, but I’ll make it work. Can I afford 7K at this time? Definitely not, and there is no way I’d try to at this point.
Why do you make it sound like dropping the tranny is a huge process. It isn't that hard if you have the right tools.
#54
Registered User
So....building on the Juice for low 13s.
Hot upgrade
lift pump
Floor It stage 1 pump
TC, VB, Input Shaft
pressure box
Turbo (if you went bigger like a 66 you might be able to skip the next step)
injectors or downloader (Diablosport or BullyDog)
#55
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A lot. With a minimal launch. You would need at least 600hp I'm guessing. I am adding some injectors to break that 600 mark. So you can see in my sig that if you're building on the Juice, how much more you need. With that said, I know that if I did a boosted launch right now I'd be in the low 13s, if not the high 12s. So based on my mods, an input shaft for $650 is less than injectors and would get the number you're after. I happen to be getting both.
So....building on the Juice for low 13s.
Hot upgrade
lift pump
Floor It stage 1 pump
TC, VB, Input Shaft
pressure box
Turbo (if you went bigger like a 66 you might be able to skip the next step)
injectors or downloader (Diablosport or BullyDog)
So....building on the Juice for low 13s.
Hot upgrade
lift pump
Floor It stage 1 pump
TC, VB, Input Shaft
pressure box
Turbo (if you went bigger like a 66 you might be able to skip the next step)
injectors or downloader (Diablosport or BullyDog)
#56
Banned
I wasnt able to get to the track today (rained out) so hopefully soon ill be able to compare boosted vs non boosted times. I would say 650+ HP to run a low 13 with out a crazy launch.
#57
Registered User
#58
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550hp with a no boost launch is good for right at 14, so the 600hp mark would probably leave it a little short for low to mid 13s I guess, but it should break into the 13s. So acook is probably right on for low 13s with no launch. 650hp or so. But for less money than 600-650hp, you could do the billet input and have 500-550hp and still run well into the 13s. 550hp should be good for very low 13s if you have some billet in that tranny.
#59
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Well 500hp with a mild boost launch (8-10psi) is good for high 13s and with a no boost launch is good for mid 14s.
550hp with a no boost launch is good for right at 14, so the 600hp mark would probably leave it a little short for low to mid 13s I guess, but it should break into the 13s. So acook is probably right on for low 13s with no launch. 650hp or so. But for less money than 600-650hp, you could do the billet input and have 500-550hp and still run well into the 13s. 550hp should be good for very low 13s if you have some billet in that tranny.
550hp with a no boost launch is good for right at 14, so the 600hp mark would probably leave it a little short for low to mid 13s I guess, but it should break into the 13s. So acook is probably right on for low 13s with no launch. 650hp or so. But for less money than 600-650hp, you could do the billet input and have 500-550hp and still run well into the 13s. 550hp should be good for very low 13s if you have some billet in that tranny.
#60
With a no boost launch I ran a 14.6 @ 96mph. For reference, a buddy of mine did a 10psi launch in 4wd and ran a 13.6 @ 97mph. He was running a TST/Crazy Larry/Killer B2/Billet DTT. Just to give you an idea. Tst was on level 3/2.