jsafe

I know it looks at intake air temp... is this part of it???

O5DodgeRam5.9

Yea I dont think its air temp. We had an 80 degree day here in FL. I was sweating just taking the trash out. I still have the problem. What is that little electric selenoid thing on the bottom of the turbo?

Also what is a mild upgraded lift pump I can use? I dont want to replace it with a factory one since ill be doing more work to her. I dont need anything extreme.

jsafe

funny it seems to have happened to most of us with the change of season too ... maybe I am wrong

tesla440

I would try to clamp (vise-grips or hose clamp) on the waste gate hose. That way you can you can make sure that you can generate full boost for your fuel. It could be some as simple as the electronic waste gate actuator or the waste gate issue.

If you're getting the same boost as before it could a fuel issue (cracked injector leaking back to the fuel return if you're not seeing diesel in your oil or rail pressure releaf valve leaking back to your fuel return system). It's tough to tell. I'm assuming that you don't have a rail pressure gauge to tell rail pressure is low.

I would remover the banjo bolt for the rail pressure releaf valve & start up the truck. If you see fuel coming out of it, you have a bad releaf valve. If not, I would take it to a deal for an injector leakdown test.

Intermittent issues just suck to trouble shoot.

wardy70

Well guys it got really cold around here a week ago and when I went to start the truck I noticed it was cranking really slow, I have taken my edge off and sent it in to be tested but still I thought the truck felt a little doggy. I checked my batteries and they were up to snuff as far as a charge goes. I put a new set of batteries in the truck and it seems to run better. When it was warm out it would not crank hard and I would have not noticed it. Im going to take the old batteries up to be load tested to see if that had anything to do with it. I just wonder if a bad battery might have had something to do with it. Maybe the voltage was not enough to work the electronic waste gate. When the weather gets colder you CCA of your batteries go down maybe that is what is affecting us.

jsafe

My truck isn't old enough to have bad bat's yet IMO

O5DodgeRam5.9

So if I put a clamp on it and it has the same boost problem then your saying its fuel. But if the problem goes away its the wastegate actuator?

tesla440

Before you start tearing into this, Is the truck still under warranty? That would be the cheapest solution. I hope that you have better luck than I do finding a dealership that has a good diesel mechanic.

If the problem goes away you could do a little more testing or just leave the clamp on there & let the Edge defuel based upon boost (I would do 40# but it's up to you) and call it a day.

But if you want to go further...

All testing needs to be down without the edge.

Now you will have to determine if its the solenoid or the waste gate actuator.

Now to test the solenoid. I would unplug the solenoid & put a resistor in between the terminal on the electrical harness, then unclamp the waste gate solenoid hose . (I don't remember what size resister, but you can do a search here & they're available at places like Radio shack). This will tell you if the solenoid seals have gone. If you are still getting full boost, then it could be waste gate actuator or the electrical side of the solenoid.

To test the electrical side of the solenoid, you can do a quick check with an multimeter. First check for an Ohm reading between the to electrical terminals. You should be reading something. If not it's bad. Then check from each terminal to the housing for Ohm reading. This will tell you if it's grounding out (bad thing). You have to be very careful here. Make sure that none of the probes touch each other or touch the housing to make sure that what you're reading is true. If it's grounding out, or you have no Ohm between terminals, you have a bad solenoid. My experience is that solenoids do not fail very often.

To eleminate the waste gate actuator, I would disconnect the hose at the solenoid & apply regulated air pressure starting at 35#. Since I have not found any specs for what the air pressure should be I would decrease the air pressure in 5# increments to see where it will not open any more. I'm hoping that it will be above the 24# that you have been seeing. If its at your lowest boost or lower that you have seen I would replace the waste gate actuator.

If everything seems good, it's the signal going to the solenoid. It could be the truck defueling or an electrical signal going to the solenoid. To check out the eletrical signal, harness I would get a service manual & look at the low & high boost DTCs for the trouble shooting. I got my free electric copy at hemitruckclub.com on the left hand side of the homepage near the bottom.

Good luck.

Hvytrkmech

59* here tuesday and wednsday, truck made 30#'s boost stock, and 40#'s with the xzt hooked up. The last reflash that was done to my truck had a "turbo protection when cold" provision built into it, however I am not sure how they wrote the software or what parameters it was designed to keep boost levels at or for how long. From experience with "other trucks" I know that when turbo protection is enabled, it is active from about 40* and below until the engine reaches almost operating temp. I will do some digging into this to verify and get specfic's.

Tim

wardy70

Just got back from a 1000 mi trip mine is still doing it. Going to check the rail pressure relief valve in the morning.

wardy70

I cracked the pressure relief valve at idle today and had fuel coming out. Going to replace and see what happens.

wardy70

I talked to Cummins today about my truck, I gave them the part number for the boost sensor (map sensor) he looked it up and told me it a dual sensor that also senses temperature. If this sensor derates the motor when the intake air is not at a certain temp we might be on to something. Not sure Im just sick of my truck being a dog and nothing has worked so far.

jsafe

good job wardy keep that good info comin bud

tesla440

Wardy70, is sounds like the rail pressure releaf valve wasn't working & when you changed it out you are still having the same problems. Just to let you know that there are two map/temp sensors on the the truck. One by the injector rail and the other by the air filter. These both can be cleaned. I would first check to make sure that you're getting enough fuel before buying the map/temp sensors. You can get a test fitting to go into the injector pump & rent a pressure gauge that you can have someone read as you're driving. I would make sure that you're getting enough fuel to the injector pump. Normally the problem that you describe would be a failing lift pump if it was a pre-2005 truck. Also I've heard that the releaf valve on the injector pump has had problems. If you look on the top of the CP3 you will see a bolt with what looks like a ball bearing pressed into it. I've heard that they can act up. Before you remove it, make sure that the entire area is clean. I would do a search on DTR for the CP3 releaf valve.

It sucks trying to trouble shoot the issue without proper testing equipment. Just hang in there. Also before you purchase the map sensor by the injector rail, let me know what the part number is that you have. I thought I was having a similar issue, so I change mine out. It didn't do anything different than before. So I know that it's still working.

Also while I'm thinking of it, you can clear the one by the air filter also with a MAP sensor cleaner for any autoparts store.

White Ghost

well guys i have the same problem and all i have on my truck is a quad boostfooler.i also have a drawstraw installed in my fuel tank with 1/2" fuel line all the way to the cp3.for the lift pump i have a holley blue. i also have a 2 micron filter setup.it will happen on warm or cold days. the temp does not matter. i have thought about the electronic wastegate myself.let me know what you guys find.i will be reading