Well...I added 2" Top Gun spacers up front and 2" blocks in the rear for the last 500 miles. Looks great actually. Love the way it looks now. Just ponied up and bought Bilstien 5100's for it.

I realized the track bar needed to be addressed at some point, but wasn't really thinking right away since I just bought this stuff. However, today with the kids going through town I hit a water puddle (they like that) and the next thing I know I have a clunking noise with every turn. Figured I busted something even though there wasn't any bumps, but got looking at it here at work, and I see the track bar is moving at the axle end. Had a hard time getting it tight at install. I'm worried that the bracket is wobbed out now. I can't imagine that bushing is out of it at 13k miles. What's the best plan to fix all that? Anyone know what size bolt it is in case the bracket just cut into the bolts diameter?

Might better pick up one of Lazars track bar bushings too while I'm at it and correct for that offset. How hard are they to put in and will they rotate in there and be offset in the wrong direction?

 

I doubt the bolt is the problem. If it was loose and moving around you probably have oval shaped holes now. If the hole is good, just get an impact gun on there and crank it down.

 

Thanks ptgarcia. I knew you'd chime in here.

I had a hard time getting it completely tight. It seemed to get harder and harder to tighten like it was cross threaded, but I know it wasn't. I'll have to get a pipe on my breaker bar tonight and take another stab at her. I'll let you know if it works. I suspect the water "lubed" it some and made it more noticable.

As for the adjustable track bar, $400 isn't in the cards right now. It'll have to wait. Not sure how much difference the 2" makes in it's length, but I'm tempted to cut it in half and sleeve it like another poster did. I can turn a sleeve and mig it back together if I knew the length change. That would buy me some time.

 

Lengthening it will be fine. Eventually the bushings will wear out, but like you said, it will buy you time. You need it about 1/4"-5/16" longer.

I couldn't spend $400 on a track bar right now either!

 

The bolt is harder than the bracket, so the holes will wear - not the bolts.

The LazarSmith bushings are easy to press in, and maintain their correct orientation towards the track bar end when installed properly.

Your stock bushing is probably fine, but you can drive a 4WD Ram off the dealer lot and watch how the soft rubber OEM bushing lets the track bar move independently.

Soaking the flanged bolt head/track bar bracket interface with water, fuel, oil, etc. reduces the amount of side load necessary to move the bolts within the (worn) bracket holes.

As Pauly said, the usual fix is to torque down the bolts as much as possible.

 

LazarSmiths go in with a vice or do I need an arbor press?
How hard are the stock ones to get out?

Also, what are the best specs to give to the alignment shop?
I know I read about increased camber to help with death wobble.

 

Large vice, hydraulic press, 3lb+ hammer... there's even a threaded driver/receiver tool that works great to R&R on your garage floor. Stock bushings are more of a PITA to get out than installing the new ones.






We had heavy rain here yesterday (had to drive through 2' of water), and the '05 started a very noticeable KNOCK during transient steering... checked today with an assistant, and no more clunking since it dried out. On this particular truck it's the axle-track bar bolt/bracket connection (other end we fabbed & welded a drop mount track bar bracket of adequate thickness).

 

Not increased camber - increased caster... I'd have them spec it at 5* (as much as possible), and a degree or two less on the driver's side if you need the help to counteract road crown. They will have to re-center the steering wheel since the drag link length will have to accomodate the axle's new-found centeredness under the frame.

I also like to specify the absolute minimum of toe-in to reduce tire wear and lessen steering effort with the max caster.

 

OK. The bolt was loose.

Must be it was binding when I drove it in there cuz it turned in no sweat this time. Of course...the 2' pipe on my big A breaker bar helped too.

 

Ok. Had another idea on the track bar. Was thinking maybe I'd order a chromoly heim from Jegs or something and weld a threaded insert in the end of the current track bar. Anyone know what size they are on like a Thuren?

 

I think the factory bar is solid so an insert won't work.

Don't know what size the bearing is, but its at least 1". It's probably 1.25".

 

Lorenz page calls it out. I found it. It's 7/8" heim with a delrin bushing in the other end.

You could cut it short and sleeve it. No biggy.

 

Only 7/8". Thanks. It must be his steering or old control arms that use the huge heims he had in his shop.

 

5* caster IS the magic number to NO DW!

 

His steering uses a 3/4X3/4.....

XLR8R is dead on with the toe, set it at 0* if you go more than 3.5* of caster. If you tow heavy, you might have about .5* of toe put in it to counter the weight transfer to the rear. DON'T put any cross caster in it unless you plan on doing the offset ball joints....some shops will try to crank it in with the adjustment cams. The old D60 front would tolerate it, but the AAM fronts are notoriously weak. It's also really hard on the CA bushings.