mulisha

hey guys just pulled the trigger on a r700 twin set up, what kind of studs do you guys reccomend. im looking to do this one time. TIA

wap

Most run ARPs, but A1s are good too.

Might as well and do the springs while you are there too.

I just finished my studs and I will be installin my springs tomorrow night or Wednesday night.

mulisha

how would that benefit me , doing springs

wap

With alot of boost, hp and or rpm your factory spings will begin to weekin and you will float your valves, or your pistons can make contact with valves and cause some pretty bad damage, it can even be fatal for your motor.

Its cheap insureance, while your top end is opened up, but you will have to remove your injectors to install the springs.

Rpainter

he has to remove the injectors to do the studs so he is already there

wap

Hmm, I guess since I pulled my injectros before I attempted anything else I didnt realize it was required for the studs. I thought you only had to remove the rockers for the studs but I guess you can learn something new everyday

Rpainter

it is very hard to get to the back studs with the injectors in place and with the price to replace one oops it is best to pull them

Billm2004

i did my studs with the injectors in, i just used a little extension. to do the springs you dont have to remove the injectors, at least it didnt look like it to me. Only if you are using the tool to do all 4 at a time would you have to remove the injectors. either way i think is the same amount of work. 1 spring at a time and dont mess with the lines and tubes, or remove the lines and tubes and do all the springs at once. Me personally, i would just do each spring. the connector tubes and nuts were a PITA for me.

Termite 06

If you decide to do the springs, go to your local dealership and talk them into letting you use their spring compressor. That will make it alot easier and faster.

kanuckle head

I kept this site because one day I can use it to do my studs as a reference hope it can help you

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...tallation.html

Moobesor

I have 12mm ARP studs. After installing the BD race twins I had to retorque the studs. For three weeks everything was fast and powerful and sounded like a beast.

Now it seems my studs stretched again. I believe my head is lifting and allowing pressure out at high rpms. I will torque the studs again. If they stretch once again I will go crazy, kick stuff, throw wrenches, then buy 14mm studs and do it all over again.

What I am suggesting is go with 14mm studs the first time. Its more work, but probably worth it.

wap

Ever consider the 625s? Super pricey but no machine work so it is probably a wash.

Howling

That is what I want to get (the 625's)but the price is hard to swallow compared to the normal 12mm ARP's.

wap

I have been told by more than one source that the normal arps and factory mls gasket are plenty up to the 750-800hp range. Then you may want to start lookin into the 625s. Plus your gettin kinda close to the cylinder walls to bore out for 14mms. I thinkn they are good for a dedicated race rig but there is good potential for problems runnin 14mms vs the 625s.

spooled05

The directions say to torque than loosen all the way off retorque,let off than retorque,let off than retorque one final time and that stretches them. Thats what i did and have no prob,i run 60+psi daily w/ no prob!Pays to follow directions !