matego

I have had 2 sets of factory U-joints replaced and I am tired of the truck sitting at the dealer. I went to Napa and got 2 Precision 351a U-joints for my rear driveshaft. I took them out of the box and they looked pretty crappy to me. The cross section was thinner and the grease seals looked like rubber bands. I think a piece of waxed string would do a better job. Anyway, I put one in because it was all I had at the time. I got it in and it was loose! Not up and down from the caps, but twisting loose. The cross was too small or the caps were too big in the inside.

Now frustrated, I took a walk down the Spicer aisle at work and started opening boxes and comparing them to the stocker. I came across a 5-188x U-joint that looked promising. I took a mic to the caps and they are the same diameter. I then put them in a vise and compressed them a little and checked the width of the joint. The 5-188 was .028 too wide. I decided to grind down the caps to make them fit. I took them to the chop saw and worked the cap flush against the side of the blade. I only did it in 5 second bursts in case they were heat treated. It turns out if you grind just about all of the lip off the cap until it is flush, it is perfect.

Now I have the u-joints the correct dimensions, I went to install them. The cross would not fit in the yokes that were welded on the ends of the shaft. They fit fine in the other yokes, but not on the shaft. I dressed the sides a tiny bit, just barely under the rust and it was good enough to get the cross in. I assembled the shaft and thoroughly greased both joints while working them.

I then put on the shaft and took it for a test drive. There was no vibration and everything seems ok now. I just feel better now knowing I can grease the joint and it looks like it is a lot beefier of a u-joint. Maybe these will last a little longer than an oil change!

Pic # 1 and 2 are of the u-joint cross. red grease is the Spicer.
Pic # 3 is the caps before grinding and after. Left cap is unground.
pic # 4 Is showing the yoke interference. It is not a bad as it looks here.
pic # 5 Shows just a little burr bit dressing the yoke is all that is needed.
pic # 6 is the end view with the clip seated

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1552.jpg
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1553.jpg
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1558.jpg
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1559.jpg
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1556.jpg
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=DSCF1554.jpg

trik396

It looks like you'd have to grind alot looking at the interference pic and I couldn't really see the grinded out pic. Sure there's enough beef left?
Really cool to see someone actually do this. Thanks...

matego

That pic was not accurate. There was a little twisting and turning involved yet to get it in there. I barely took any metal off, mostly cleaning the rust gave enough clearance to get it in there. Those things have a pretty nice relief cut in there from the factory. Believe me, I didnt want ANY strength removed from the shaft.

My friend Tony wants me to put these joints in his 05 next week. I will try to get before and after pics.

Hvytrkmech

Big difference between the Precision and the Spicer.

Nice job, thanks for sharing,

Tim

homewrecker

I had the same problem witth the factory u-joints wearing out causing a vibration.Took it to a local driveline sho.Replaced them with spicer u-joints.I don't recall the part #'s but they were a dirrect fit. I watched the guy take them out of the box and put them in. No grinding involved.They are the non-greasable type but they looked a little beefier than the AAM joints. If you are interested in the part # I can call the guy up and post it for you.

tcr

Did you do the fronts? See if you can get those part #s, thanks!

tritont

the uppers are 6154008... I don't have the lower #