The biggest benefit to the Jr is timing, you won't need a rocktech timing adjustment.

The Quad Max Mileage is a pressure box, and will work just fine with the Jr.. but you better have really good fuel filtration to run a pressure box, they are the main culprit in short injector life, up there with poor fuel filtration.

Limits of timing come from timing rattle/knock. EGT's are much lower with timing so thats not what you would use. I would use the following as a guideline, and not run any more timing that what the Jr offers.

TM1: 1400 max cont, 1450 momentary
TM2: 1300 max cont, 1350 momentary
TM3: 1350 max cont, 1400 momentary
TM4: 1250 max cont, 1300 momentary

 

Ok - thanks for the reply. So regarding filtration, do you suggest the better fuel filter that fits into the stock canister?

I have 180K on the truck - injectors are ok, probably could be updated but I do not want to stick the money into injectors since I will likely upgrade in a couple of years to a mega.

Lastly, can you give me the engineering 101 on what a "pressure" box is or what it is really doing?

I also believe that the mileage max adds timing but not a lot

 

The mileage max tells the ECM your rail pressure is lower than it is so it increases it, this provides better atomization and more fuel for the same duration, which in turn provides more power for the same fuel and thus the mileage increase. The only thing it does is rail pressure, but higher rail pressure causes the fuel to ignite sooner so the timing is advanced that way, but the injector still opens at the same time.

Higher pressure means more abrasion on the injector, and if you just running stock filtration that normally means shorter injector life.

I would run a Baldwin PF7977 in the OEM canister at a minimum, and put a GDP MK2+ on the truck if you plan to keep the Mileage Max.

OEM filtration started at 10um, went to 7um with too many injector issues. Bosch wants 5um min, and the only filter that does that for the OE canister is the Baldwin. There are only 3 filters that meet OE spec, OEM, Donaldson P550800, and the Baldwin PF7977.. everything else isn't good enough.

 

Thanks - that is a good explanation. I currently use a Cummins Filtration filter which i believe is better than 10 micron.

 

The current one is 7um, FS19856

 

So if you are running a POD and you bump up the rail pressure, you shouldn't select one of the odd numbered settings with advanced timing?

 

I just found this ref installing the GDP filter system:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...water-sep.html

 

No your fine to run timing that way.

 

Hello everyone,

just to clear up information in the above thread, I was told by Quadzilla that their mileage max box that I have does NOT change the rail pressure or duration of the fuel delivery. The only thing the Quadzilla mileage max box does is advance the timing by 3 degrees.

I stacked the quadzilla mileage max box along with the smarty JR (Tow mode, Timing #2, Torque Management #4 - from memory on the TM) for 900 miles of the trip. The remaining 600 miles I removed the Quadzilla milage max box from the truck.

I did not check the smoke under load / slight acceleration when I had the quad box on but I did check it with it off. Under a slight load (going up a small incline), I did notice slight black smoke - not a lot, but noticeable in the passenger side mirror. As far as mpg goes, i will have to run the numbers to see if there was any significant difference between the 2 set ups.

I can say with the Smarty JR that my boost goes WAY up under significant load. I can easily hit 34 psi in OD- I do not remember hitting that kind of pressure with out the Smarty. It also seems that once it hits 23 psi that is just runs away to 30+ psi very quickly. When it does that I get it out of cruise and use my foot to control amount of boost.

I only tend to use Cruise control on the flats, thru the cities and larger hills I will take it off of cruise control.

 

Since I got that PM from you I called Quad. On my last call to them I was told the M3 added approx 1500 psi of rail pressure, on this call I was told the same as you that it adds timing. It does this by modifying the intake air temp sensor output.

Based on that I would not stack the 2 boxes.

Also I think the boost climbs super fast because I read the M3 only adds timing below ~20 psi, so once you lose that added timing the spool time is quicker. Also the M3 doesn't boost fool, without an update, so thats why your boost is higher.

34 psi is perfectly acceptable for an 04.5-07, 38ish is where you want to limit it. Stock runs 32 psi. Since the Jr disables the WG you will see more boost when fueling hard, its how it should be and will provide cooler EGT's.

I have found EGT's and boost to be much more stable with cruise on the hills.

 

To get the benefit of "improved fuel mileage", the tone ring mod should work. Is there a way to change the WG setting to 'closed' without a Smarty Jr.?

 

Stan - I do not agree that the tone ring mod will help improve fuel economy. Please explain / expand on why you think the tone ring mod will improve fuel economy

 

The tone ring mod is supposed to advance timing across the board by a fixed amount, which has the potential to improve mileage. I prefer the Smarty Jr as the timing is dynamic and varies based on load/rpm/boost.

A boost fooler will keep the WG from opening on a 04.5+ truck, on a 03-04 you need a boost fooler and an adj boost elbow.

 

I've read that advancing the timing 2-3* will potentially help with mpg. I would have to look up the different explanations and summarize a post, but generally folks have experienced that the TMR has helped mpg. And by doing the TRM, this is a 'free' way of helping mpg without spending the $$ to buy a tuner of some sort (i.e. Smarty Jr., Mileage Max). Adjusting the timing is one of the basic things that the tuners take care of.

The TRM is a simple mod to try. And if I buy a tuner after I have done the TRM, then you need to reset / undo the TRM back to where it was before. Otherwise, the tuner would advance would advance the timing too much.

But AH64ID's explanation gives a little more insight to that mod. Since I prefer to keep my truck 'basically stock' and normally do not tow/haul anything, I am trying to figure out the pay back time for "(say) +1 mpg, how many miles do I have to drive to offset the $500 tuner cost."

 

Thanks for the info