DodgeChallenger

Had the 5er out for the first time last week. Junior is set on SW2 and defaults for timing/torque. Trailer weighs about 14-15000. Hills range from 6% and down. She holds the hills longer now and EGT will not go above 1150F with sensor before turbo. Even lugging it down to 1800RPM. Turbo boost, however, will not go above 23lbs on my Quad E-guage. And that is probably right as the power flattens out at that pressure as well. No black smoke from the exhaust except for initial takeoff from a standstill. So the only question is - how do I get the turbo boost up to around 30lbs which is doable with the stock turbo? Is that electronic setup in my turbo killing my boost? I have not checked for codes though! Mileage is about 15.5L/100KMs which is around 14mpg US. Speed not exceeding 60MPH.

carl48

i am not sure why, but here is how to remove the problem
when 12 volts is applied to the solenoid it opens up a port and bleeds some of the air back into the volute increasing the waste gate opening from 20 psi to 30 psi. remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench go's deeper to make it easer to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. next remove any parts left in the center tube, you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. and install a 1/8 pipe plug. replace the o rings and install see pix. The solenoid is 11 ohms. The largest resistor used to date to fool the ecm is 147 ohms

cut the plug off of the solenoid and place the resistor here and plug back in the truck you need a 3 to 5 watt resistor of about 140 ohms http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/155.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/150.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/161.jpg

no_6_oh_no

Easiest way is just crimp the boost reference hose on the back of the turbo or put a boost elbow in it. That will allow more boost to build if the WG is actually opening.

If the WG controller fails you should get a CEL and boost will limit to about what you see, or, the gauge is just not reading correctly as the electronic ones do. You actually could be making more boost than your seeing on the gauge.

Blocking the boost reference hose will tell you if the gauge is wrong or the controller is the problem.

DodgeChallenger

OK. So there must be two methods for the trbo boost to be controlled - 1. The standard wastegate cylinder that is very common on many brands of turbocharged vehicles and 2. the boost control solenoid.
So Carl - what you are suggesting s to remove the solenoid and fool the computer into thinking it is still there with the resistor. What happens then if the computer wants to see say 20lbs boost for given conditions and with the solenoid removed it would be say 30lbs. Wouldn't that make the computer throw a code as it does montior boost pressure?

I will certainly try the crimping of the boost ref hose first. I am not looking for ungodly boost numbers just think that with the Smarty it should be easy to get 30lbs indicated boost.

no_6_oh_no

Not really, boost is controlled by the ECU on the 04.5+ trucks only 1 way, via the WG controller. Its the black cylinder on the front of the turbo with an electrical connection. The ECU uses a 5 volt PWM signal to move an internal solenoid that opens and closes an orfice that allows boost to act on the WG actuator. The WG actuator is the typical spring loaded actuator with an adjustable rod to close the WG. Spring pressure holds it closed.

Boost overcomes the spring pressure to move the rod an open the WG. Depending on how the rod was set at the factory that will be anywhere from 20-26 psi of compressor boost, NOT manifold boost. This is important as there is a 3-5 psi boost drop across the IC and intake horn.

The ECU reads map signal and increase\decreases the signal to the controller that will allow more\less boost to the actuator to control what the max boost is seen at the MAP sensor.

Your Smarty will take of over boost by remapping the boost tables out to about 45 psi. Over boost codes are generated when the MAP signal does not have value less than or equal to the map reading in the boost table.

The WG controller on the turbo will default to full boost hitting the actuator is it goes bad. It should throw a code and a CEL but depending on the truck it may just not show. Use your Smarty and check for codes.

You might simply have a glitch wityh the electronic gauge, they are not as reliable as possible. Cross checking boost with a manual gauge to verify your boost numbers is typical in these situations.

carl48

the ecm does not monitor the boost in that way. this is how you have to do it if you use after market turbos. the ecm does monitor for overboost like a waste gate failure to open like clamping the hose as sugested above. it will throw you in limp mode at about 34 psi. the he351 is not efficient moch above 34 psi anyway and above 38 you are asking for turbo failure. either use a boost elbo or my mod but do not crimp the hose

no_6_oh_no

Yes, it does. Its a typical extrapolation algorithm used with table based lookups.

The conversion from analog signal to digital value gives an infinite range of values between 0 and 5 volts. The signal value is converted to boost vlaue by looking for a value less than or equal to a table entry. If an entry is not found an error condition is set, ie overboost. It is not viable to have every entry between 0 and 5 in a table, only the largest usable values are entered.

A Smarty remaps this table to the extent of the MAP signal, about 45 psi. Once you pass 45 psi or so you WILL get an overboost code even with Smarty loaded.

Thats why on turbos capable of generating large boost numbers we have to run a boost fooler to clamp the MAP signal to a max of around 40-42 psi and stop codes.

Thousands of trucks running crimped hoses for thousands of miles. The HE351 is quite happy up to about 40 psi and sees no catastrophic failures from that level. Under normal conditions and light fueling mods DP will limit boost to 40 psi or less. The only thing one has to watch for is excessive dumping of the throttle at high boost numbers as that will eventually hurt the tubo.

I personally have put over 100k on this exact setup with no turbo issues, but, I am careful how I lift off the throttle at high boost. Now running a boost elbow to limit boost to around 38-40 psi. Not much difference than a crimped hose due to the drive pressures.

Spooler

Not sure if the Jr. has it or not but make sure you turn the WG off on the Smarty. If you have the fuel, you will make the boost.

rockcrawler304

The Jr. does not have this option. But he should still see 30lbs easily. I know I can hit 30 without any problems The Jr. just has the boost fooling built into the programs.

quadman20

Yeh I know I'll hit 30-34psi boost pulling my 5th up 6% grade but I'm in 3rd pulling 60ish mph at 2k rpm

DodgeChallenger

OK first step then is a mechanical guage. Where can I tap into the stock setup for reading? around the intake horn I presume.

no_6_oh_no

Boost bolt in the intake manifold is the easiest.

no_6_oh_no

No boost fooling with the Smarty. WG on or off is all and that doesn't work on all trucks.

lucey

I believe the Smarty Jr does boost fooling. Mine hits 34 psi all day long with no codes on my 04. I used to think it didn't and had Quad Boost Fooler until it messed itself. I took it out and still have the same boost LOL

no_6_oh_no

Overboost codes result from MAP values greater than what is in the boost table. Smarty remaps the boost tables almost to the limit of the MAP sensor, about 45 psi. If you go over that you will get a code.

A boost fooler clamps the voltage coming from the MAP to a maximum of about 29 psi so codes are not thrown and the WG controller on the newer trucks will not open.

Maybe a subtle difference in the results between fooling and remapping but they are two totally different concepts and have different results on different trucks.