sledpuller 66 streetable?
#2
I second that question and would also like to know where to get one and is there a differance in the sledpuller 66 and the super phat shaft 66? I ve done numerous searches and cant get a price on either one. What kind of increases should one expect with one of these besides lower egts?
#3
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http://www.htturbo.com/ sled puller 66
http://www.industrialinjection.com/ sps 66
I'd give some details on price, but I hear thats a big no-no on this board.. Sorry.
http://www.industrialinjection.com/ sps 66
I'd give some details on price, but I hear thats a big no-no on this board.. Sorry.
#5
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My II Super Phat Shaft 66 is very steetable. I am currently running only Juice on stock, no other downloads or boxes, until diesel availability is better in Houston. Performs pretty much like stock. It takes a little more throttle at low boost/low rpm to kick it up, but not bad.
#6
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Streetability is VERY relative. Relative to driver preference, truck setup, altitude, transmission type, gearing, tires, and so on.
It's almost impossible to say yea or nay for a different combo based on someone elses experience with a different set of circumstances.
See if you can find someone who's truck is EXACTLY like you want yours to be, then drive it. That's the only way to know for sure if it's streetable to YOU.
Since I have a 6-speed, 265 tires, 3.54 axles, and 150hp injectors, I'd certainly attempt to street a 66-class turbo.
Now, if I had a 2001 24V with just an EZ (stock injectors), a full DTT auto with a tight converter, and taller tires with 3.54 gears, I wouldn't even CONSIDER trying a 66-class turbo. Id go with small twins instead. This setup needs FAST spoolup to have any kind of streetability. It also keeps smoke much lower, and helps MPG.
Then there's the variable of fueling system. A P-pump truck fuels much differently (and can be adjusted over a HUGE range of fueling characteristics) than a VP44 truck. And a VP44 truck fuels much differently than a HPCR truck does. Heck, an 04.5 and up fuels differently than an early HPCR!
As a result, it's VERY easy to get into an apples-to-oranges comparison with different bombs and how they effect streetability.
So, my advice:
1) Find someone who's truck is close to the same year, so the fueling setup is similar.
2) Make sure they have the BOMBination that you want to try.
3) Even better if their truck represents a worse-case scenario than your truck (i.e., they have 3.73, you have 4.10, or they have tight auto trans, you have stick shift, etc).
Hope this helps.
It's almost impossible to say yea or nay for a different combo based on someone elses experience with a different set of circumstances.
See if you can find someone who's truck is EXACTLY like you want yours to be, then drive it. That's the only way to know for sure if it's streetable to YOU.
Since I have a 6-speed, 265 tires, 3.54 axles, and 150hp injectors, I'd certainly attempt to street a 66-class turbo.
Now, if I had a 2001 24V with just an EZ (stock injectors), a full DTT auto with a tight converter, and taller tires with 3.54 gears, I wouldn't even CONSIDER trying a 66-class turbo. Id go with small twins instead. This setup needs FAST spoolup to have any kind of streetability. It also keeps smoke much lower, and helps MPG.
Then there's the variable of fueling system. A P-pump truck fuels much differently (and can be adjusted over a HUGE range of fueling characteristics) than a VP44 truck. And a VP44 truck fuels much differently than a HPCR truck does. Heck, an 04.5 and up fuels differently than an early HPCR!
As a result, it's VERY easy to get into an apples-to-oranges comparison with different bombs and how they effect streetability.
So, my advice:
1) Find someone who's truck is close to the same year, so the fueling setup is similar.
2) Make sure they have the BOMBination that you want to try.
3) Even better if their truck represents a worse-case scenario than your truck (i.e., they have 3.73, you have 4.10, or they have tight auto trans, you have stick shift, etc).
Hope this helps.
#7
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Good Answer!
Hohn-
Good response!
The only reason I got my SPS 66 was after I drove a buddy's '03, HO, long bed, 6 speed like mine, but with 35" tires and the TST PMCR/quad pressure box combo and the SledPuller 66 turbo. It was very streetable with the TST off and just the pressure box on 50% or so. So if his truck felt this good with 35's, then everything would be gravy with my stock 265's!
Good response!
The only reason I got my SPS 66 was after I drove a buddy's '03, HO, long bed, 6 speed like mine, but with 35" tires and the TST PMCR/quad pressure box combo and the SledPuller 66 turbo. It was very streetable with the TST off and just the pressure box on 50% or so. So if his truck felt this good with 35's, then everything would be gravy with my stock 265's!
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#8
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Well I did see a number of posts from guys running close to identical type mods about the II SPS66. I talked with a couple and decided to give it a try over twins. I figured that we could always do some mods to the SPS66 and use it in a set of twins. So far I am happy with the upgrade, it works well with my driving conditions and mods.
#9
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thanks for the replies. just looking for the best bang for my buck without having to stud the head and worry about heat. a little spool lag is ok but i don't want to be waiting on it either. just want to get the most out of this tst stack. any more info throw it at me!
#10
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With common rail engine you won't have to stud the head with an SPS66 or SP66 turbo. Although studding the head is good insurance.
I have about 6 hooks with my SPS66 @ 50psi under full load for 20 or so seconds and no leaks.
With a 66 and a manual, the truck is very streetable.
I have about 6 hooks with my SPS66 @ 50psi under full load for 20 or so seconds and no leaks.
With a 66 and a manual, the truck is very streetable.
#11
Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
With a 66 and a manual, the truck is very streetable.
Love it and would not go back
#12
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With the mods I have would the SPS 66 work okay for towing and daily driving with occasional trips to the track? Also could someone PM me on the best pricing and location? Is this a direct bolt up for a 2004 or will I need to buy additional items? Thanks