Timinva

Dont assume you have rail press. If your ppe controller is messed up or connections are bad you will have low rail press. Get a gauge. Tim

BlackBeast

allright tim. I still say my #'s are horrible for my mods though.

TheBigNasty

Umm, I think you missed my point Pourin. I was not saying that the a5k was not much larger than my HX40, I was referring to the SB.

BlackBeast

Hows it going big nasty.

abc4yew

ON the dyno a coal train is just wasted fuel. You will never get the SB to make 70psi on the dyno. On the track, probably. Like Tim says. You need to tune your setup and it takes a while. I'd ditch the Predator to start. It probably adds pressure and with dual fuelers pressure is not what you need. Where are you measuring boost? You should measure it on both the intake horn and on the exhaust manifold. This will give you an idea on drive ratio to see if that turbo is running efficiently. If your EGT's never go over 1250 and you have tons of smoke then you are dousing the flame with diesel. Been there and done that. Quality of injector flow is more important than quantity of flow. You have a seemingly good setup. There is a huge difference in a Superflow and a DynoJet dyno. Your numbers and w1cked's are not comparable. You have torque numbers and w1cked does not. He could be making the same torque as you are. What are you reving to in rpm and have you posted your dyno charts so we can analyse? ks

BlackBeast

My truck is broken 150 miles from where I am but as soon as I get the charts Im downloading them. I also just got off the phone with my mechanic and he says im clearing most of my smoke I totally think im not but also he has not driven with me on CL. How much power do you think I will gain tuning and changing to a dynojet. A lot of people with similar mods are hitting 720+ on dynojets. Some people oh here are honest and dont care and say there is a big difference on dynos. I know there is becasue my operator says there is.

TheBigNasty

Oh it's goin, BB. Really gotta get goin because class starts soon. Anyways, I agree that you have the potential but really just need a chance to tune it all and get the bugs worked out. After that you will have one lethal truck. Stick with the SB, or get an a5k if you really feel you need it. I think there is just alot more to be had out of that SB. I mean heck if you disconnect the WG on a factory HX-35 (referring to a 12-24v) you can hit 45-50 psi. I don't see the SB not being able to make much more than a 35.... . Oh and BTW, that pic doesn't look a thing like MY HX40.

abc4yew

On a dynojet if you can accelerate the drum without losing traction quickly you get big numbers. The drums are not all the same weight but the software compensates for this. Put on big tires with LSD and you maintain traction on acceleration and have better numbers than a stock non LSD truck with the same engine. On a superflow the truck is put underload and it will twist the truck as the torque is "forced" onto the dyno. If the numbers were close it would be a fluke between the two dynos. A dyno is just a tool for tuning for the street. Put that truck on the track and you will get a better feeling for the real power. If you can't make 70psi on the street then you have a tuning or turbo problem. The highest I ever got on the dyno was 38psi and 550hp. On the street I could blow through 70psi in seconds at will. Traction with my open diffs was the problem. I wouldn't freak out too much about the difference between yours and w1cked's results. You need more numbers to figure out what is going on. Rail pressure will tell you if your injectors are controling fuel flow or just fire hosing. I'm sure it is holding but it would be interesting to be able to see what it is doing vs rpm and egts.
Good Luck, Kerry

BlackBeast

I just got off the phone with the owner at industrial injec and he thinks whats going on is pretty weird. He also said with a duel fueler I will deffinatly not have any rail pressure problems at all unles I have 1200HP or so. On the street my truck hits same boost as dyno. I just want my truck to have 800 or so Like it should I built this thing like crazy like I did because I knew that extra power would make it drive like a 700-750Hp Crew cab SRW. But anyways he said something up maybe my fuel pump that just broke has not been working right the whole time.

abc4yew

What fuel pressure is (was) your FASS delivering to the dual fuelers. That is why you need a low pressure and a high pressure fuel gauges. It's great to have all the mods but if you can't measure how things are performing then you are flying blind. My Super CP3.4 doesn't work unless it is being fed at at least 50psi. At the drags it would start at 60psi and drop to 40 by the 1/8th then hold. I measure the low pressure fueling at the FASS by a manual guage and at the CP3.4 inlet using an isolator. The rail gauge would tell you if your low pressure system is starving your dual fuelers even if the low pressure gauge is telling you that you have pressure.....you might not be making volume. ks

BlackBeast

Thats the guage I need is a fuel pressure guage. My duel fueler is great and works great allways has. There is no way to drain the raill pressure with a PPE duel fueler unless you have like1200HP. I agree bignasty there is a lot more to be had with the silver bullet. The owner thought after messing with the screw I just need more fuel but when I told him what I have he said I was good for possibly up to 75lbs. I do need a fuel pressure guage for sure abc4yew.

JD Dearden

I make more than that with my sps66, but it really dosen't matter because that is coming off anyway fairly soon.

BlackBeast

Yeag well so is the bullet for a GT42R i think. Im allmost 90% sure a change is coming fast. There is no excuse for why my #'s are so low but with allmost identical fuel setups producing 800+hp and mines only 616 theres a big problem. And if the only difference is turbo size/bosst levels then I better get a bigger turbo that hits higher boost levels.

JD Dearden

Maybe you need a different mechanic?

BigBlue

Why don't you figure out what's wrong with your current setup now instead of slapping another turbo on and possibly having the same problems? That silver bullet is plenty of turbo to support 700+. You just need to figure out how to get it out of it. You can't just slap a whole bunch of parts on and think you can dyno with the big boys. You've got to play with and tinker and tune and test these trucks. If I was you I'd be ticked off as well but I'd sit down and start analyzing why it didn't make the power it should have and possible tuning issues or what not. Perhaps I'd start from the beginning and pull all the boxes off and get on the dyno and start testing and stacking then. You've got a problem some where that's hindering your performance. Whether it be lack of fuel pressure, lack of boost, a bad module, a couple of modules that don't play nice together. Who knows. But you've got a problem somewhere. Sit down and figure out where the problem is first and then go from there. Don't just go and start swapping parts hoping that fixes it.