?s on traction bars
#1
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?s on traction bars
Well judging from my sig would I benefit from running a set of these? My truck does like to tuck and squat through everygear, feels powerful but hard to shift nicely when the truck lurches. Don't race much but I pull alot of loads from light to heavy. Traction wise the tires I run Dura Grappler 275/55r20s do well at gripping the road, so good they don't like to break lose unless I make them. So I don't know if they would be a good decision for me. If they are, would some like Lazars fit, or do I need to fabricate them myself? If I need to make them, what materials would work best?
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: East Millsboro, PA
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2" dom tubing 1/2" wall and thread the ends (one right thread and one left thread) and then get adjustable three point bar from tractor supply and use the threaded ends and ditch the middle. then you have to just make brackets. the set we made for a 2nd gen worked out great but we had to get longer u-bolts to mount the back bracket, but I think 3rd gens u-bolts are upside down but you should be able to get pics from a site like we did. Don't forget to thread one end backwards like we did because the dom tubing is expensive because it is not welded like most other tubing. good luck!
#4
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You will not be dissappointed in Lazarsmith's traction bars. http://www.lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html
Remember when looking at pricing, that shipping is free. They are worth every penny.
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Remember when looking at pricing, that shipping is free. They are worth every penny.
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: "I don't live in Dallas, I live in TEXAS!"
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You will not be dissappointed in Lazarsmith's traction bars. http://www.lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html
Remember when looking at pricing, that shipping is free. They are worth every penny.
..
Remember when looking at pricing, that shipping is free. They are worth every penny.
..
Seriously even if your gonna make your own, he is an awesome resource and if not...his stuff is NAWCE!!!
#6
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Join Date: May 2006
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Rip, I just put a set on. Yesterday I was going down interstate and a big tire carcass was in the road and I did not see it till very close ( due to traffic I guess). Anyway I did not think much, just whipped steering wheel to left and back to right and I did not even notice any body roll or anything, I love the way they make my Ton DRW handle. I'm glad I got them and would do it again. Mine are also Mike's and he is great to deal with.
#7
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Holy Shnikes! I'm gonna have to make my own, I know ya'll are satisfied with Mikes bars. I just don't have the money to fork out for something I don't truly have to have. Those that have made their own for a 2wd, pics please? I would like some info and links possibly of some setups, lengths, and quality grades of metal while on a budget. And some installation info please!
TIA
Rick
TIA
Rick
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#8
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As much as the cost looks. Keep in mind 2" DOM tubing is going for anywhere in the ballpark of 9.50-11.00 a foot. Plus other materials, welding consumables, your time/effort, engineering skills and fabrication skills. Not to mention the quality of the brackets depending on how good you are with a torch, his look lazer or water jet cut. I know the price seems steep but for the quality, his price seems fair. But Im a welder/fabricator by trade and I would take a stab at it myself, also having access to a water jet helps. Good luck with watever you decide. Post pics if you do em yourself!
On a side not. If I were you, I would look into using Schedule 80 1 1/2 PIPE. Its wall thickness is .200 and it's OD is 1.900 and is a TON cheaper than 2" DOM tube. That Schedule 80 1 1/2" will take anything you could throw at it IMO.
On a side not. If I were you, I would look into using Schedule 80 1 1/2 PIPE. Its wall thickness is .200 and it's OD is 1.900 and is a TON cheaper than 2" DOM tube. That Schedule 80 1 1/2" will take anything you could throw at it IMO.
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